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1988 300SEL 158K;1980 450SL 31K
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705 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
I always wanted to get rid of that mechanical cartoonish, useless fan in my car, specially in Houston, I don't have any heat problems but always feel the car is so hot in Texas and no air flow when AC is on and sitting in traffic.
I looked for many solutions, and many options for electric fans, Its always scares me to buy unbranded fans for big $$$ and put them in my car, I had that feeling they will quit working in any minute.
I heard one of the best electric fans for such projects is :
1- Ford Taurus fan
2- Older models from Volvo (940), it has 2 speeds, and Volvo relay that can control the 2 speeds, with BMW E30 temp sensor that can fit either in customized aluminum hose (for V8 engines) or in the unused sensors plugs on top of the engine for M103 engines the same thread, the BMW sensor can be found in 2 temp settings to start the fan, 80c - 90c and 90c-100c.
3- I found out that nothing can beat the fan for Mercedes C class, the fan is controlled by a signal from the ECM to raise the fan speed with the engine temperature its only for $25 from the junk yard, to make that possible without that ECM I found a guy online how make them for living, he is running his own company.


President / Chief Engineer
Dave Brown
971-678-3688
Located at:
5407 Hwy 39
Klamath Falls OR, 97603

video on YouTube to show you how fast is the fan


also Dave showing his pruduct


the fan is 20", It settles down and runs at 39 amps (full speed), I upgraded my alternator, a lot of cutting is needed to take the C fan from its shroud, and cut my shroud to make it fit, I attached both using steel mesh and fiberflex (the same kit I used to fix my dash, in my other thread about fixing cracked dashes), I will keep working on filling the gabs using the kit, and then sand it, Bondo, and paint to make it nice.


side by side with the useless tiny mechanical fan, after cutting the shroud.
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a lot of cutting and measuring, to make sure the fan will not hit the pulleys, I don't think there is a lot of cutting for the V8 engines as the radiator is bigger not like M103 engines.
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measure twice and cut once
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Registered
1988 300SEL 158K;1980 450SL 31K
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705 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
Clever idea. Let us know how it operates.
thanks, i am still waiting on the controller, I will update all, also i am thinking to remove the front aux fan i am not sure yet if it will do something againt this fan , and save more energy
 

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'91 560SEC, '98 SL500
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1,975 Posts
Faiz - Some feedback and input for you.
What is the output of your "rebuilt" high output alternator? The stock Bosch only puts out 80-Amps which is only twice the draw of that C-Class electric fan. A 40-Amp draw from an electric fan is extremely high unless you have the electrical system and the alternator to support, especially with the AC compressor running, fuel pumps running, accessories running etc.

Do you know the CFM of that C-Class fan?

Also the way you are bonding the C-Class fan to the stock shroud will eventually fail with the high rpm and vibrations of the fan and the engine - I can't stress this enough. That bonding agent is really designed for low stress applications like the dash. Your best bet is something like this:


 

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1988 300SEL 158K;1980 450SL 31K
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705 Posts
Discussion Starter #5 (Edited)
Hi Yasin, thank you for your inputs, I need every single one from all of you to consider in this project, My alternator is 120-AMPS, the fan settled at 39 AMP at full speed, the controller is programmable, I will set the 90% speed at 100c, 25% speed at 75c, 50% with AC on, 75% speed at 90c ish, I hope I will not need the 90% speed if there is constant cooling started at 75 c. (I hope am right), my car has only one fuel pump, no secondary air pumps, or CLS, I will delete the Aux fan that will save some power.
I looked every where online for that fan CFM, checked other threads for Jeebs and Hemi engines, everybody is installing them but nobody said anything about CFM.
the fan covers most of the radiator, so my OEM shroud only covers the corners, at the end I will support the whole shroud from inside and where the fan is connected to the shroud with good layers of fiberglass cloth and resin to support the whole structure.
Let me know what you thing.
While cutting i made the fan sit inside the OEM shroud, to give it more support
 

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85 500SEC (Euro), 87 560SEC (now sold)
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1,224 Posts
slownrusty likely has the coolest (pun intended) custom radiator/fan setup for a 126 on the planet. It is mighty impressive and makes me jealous. :)
 

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'91 560SEC, '98 SL500
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Thanks @1783pictures I appreciate it! My electric fans are also micro-processor controlled with a variable frequency drive and soft on and soft off, to not overtax the alternator.

I've spent a tremendous amount of time and cost to really go through the cooling system on my car and evolve it. I worked very closely with the good folks at Ron Davis Radiator to also develop a more efficient trans cooler to be TIG welded and integrated into the radiator. I also built my own braided lines from the trans to the radiator to allow high flow.
 

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Registered
85 500SEC (Euro), 87 560SEC (now sold)
Joined
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1,224 Posts
Thanks @1783pictures I appreciate it! My electric fans are also micro-processor controlled with a variable frequency drive and soft on and soft off, to not overtax the alternator.

I've spent a tremendous amount of time and cost to really go through the cooling system on my car and evolve it. I worked very closely with the good folks at Ron Davis Radiator to also develop a more efficient trans cooler to be TIG welded and integrated into the radiator. I also built my own braided lines from the trans to the radiator to allow high flow.
Show off. :)

I might (maybe) drive to Arizona in the Fall. If I do I will stop in your area. How I would kill to have that radiator setup, but I can't even imagine would it would cost me! ;)
 

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Registered
'87 560 SEC, Pearl Grey/blue; 300,000+ mi; '07 CLS 550, Barolo/stone; 90,000+ mi
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596 Posts
Thanks @1783pictures I appreciate it! My electric fans are also micro-processor controlled with a variable frequency drive and soft on and soft off, to not overtax the alternator.

I've spent a tremendous amount of time and cost to really go through the cooling system on my car and evolve it. I worked very closely with the good folks at Ron Davis Radiator to also develop a more efficient trans cooler to be TIG welded and integrated into the radiator. I also built my own braided lines from the trans to the radiator to allow high flow.
Slownrusty, is this a one-off product, or is it something they can do as a regular or occasional offering with a full understanding of the M117? With my engine rebuild in full swing, I'm sure this will come up imminently. I've had success with a Nissens radiator for nine years now, but if the fan is more efficient and doesn't draw any more power, then it sounds like a great idea. Also, how does the transmission cooler work? Is that separate than the coolant system that would normally use antifreeze?
 

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1988 300SEL 158K;1980 450SL 31K
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705 Posts
Discussion Starter #11
Slownrusty, is this a one-off product, or is it something they can do as a regular or occasional offering with a full understanding of the M117? With my engine rebuild in full swing, I'm sure this will come up imminently. I've had success with a Nissens radiator for nine years now, but if the fan is more efficient and doesn't draw any more power, then it sounds like a great idea. Also, how does the transmission cooler work? Is that separate than the coolant system that would normally use antifreeze?
I contacted them, they said the design and measurements had been lost, they are unable to build a radiator.
 

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'91 560SEC, '98 SL500
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If you guys want to get this going with Ron Davis, I recommend shipping your stock radiator to them and they can model and create a new design in AutoCAD - this is will be the best solution (hands down). I am surprised they have lost the design, after all its only a file you save on a computer - weird! @Faiz Jan I recommend talking to one of their Engineers or Techs to ask specific questions on what they can do and offer. They build custom radiators all the time for one off cars, so this can be revived if in fact the design is "lost". I can also create a new design in CAD as well, but not sure what version they are using and if they also use Solid Works for 3D Isometric design as well.

They can build \ integrate the trans cooler with stock connections so you can re-use your metal hard lines and that way it will be more plug and play. I went with a high capacity cooler and larger fittings and then I made my own Earls braided lines one evening and I also made my own mounting brackets. I really enjoy this type of work!

Here are some pictures of my trans cooler and the lines I made and how I connected it all together.







 

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'91 560SEC, '98 SL500
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And to give an idea of engine operating temperature with it being 100F outside, and this is sitting in traffic (vacuum leak is fixed now as well :).
 

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1988 300SEL 158K;1980 450SL 31K
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705 Posts
Discussion Starter #14
Nice work Yasin, you are really good at this :)
 

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1988 300SEL 158K;1980 450SL 31K
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705 Posts
Discussion Starter #15
Shroud and fan almost done, ready for paint. fiber glass work and steel mesh all around the fan/shroud, will touch up the low areas using glass bondo.

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2634387
 

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I have a question re: Glass Bondo. Background is this: 560 SEL '88 was an inch deep in interior water when I bought it. But only having just removed the fenders to remove the bent hinges did I find part of the problem: the driver's side drain (one inch pipe connecting to a rubber hose) totally rusted and gone; passenger side hose split but the connector intact. More interesting is a bit of rust at the base of the firewall/tower -- whatever we call where fender meets door jamb. To try to insure that water goes where it should, given the sunroof also an issue and not wanting to repeat removing all the rugs for mold special shampoo and steam cleaning, I wondered if there is a Bondo that makes sense. When you say Glass Bondo do you mean like WestSystem epoxy with filler? Thanks , D Day
 

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If you guys want to get this going with Ron Davis, I recommend shipping your stock radiator to them and they can model and create a new design in AutoCAD - this is will be the best solution (hands down). I am surprised they have lost the design, after all its only a file you save on a computer - weird! @Faiz Jan I recommend talking to one of their Engineers or Techs to ask specific questions on what they can do and offer. They build custom radiators all the time for one off cars, so this can be revived if in fact the design is "lost". I can also create a new design in CAD as well, but not sure what version they are using and if they also use Solid Works for 3D Isometric design as well.

They can build \ integrate the trans cooler with stock connections so you can re-use your metal hard lines and that way it will be more plug and play. I went with a high capacity cooler and larger fittings and then I made my own Earls braided lines one evening and I also made my own mounting brackets. I really enjoy this type of work!

Here are some pictures of my trans cooler and the lines I made and how I connected it all together.







Seriously, Yasin, that's inspiring! Love the Red and Blue! To achieve that sort of Clean to the Max on the underside did you use the Dryce method of dry ice cleaning? Or do you simply wash each part in case you ever need to eat off, say, your oil pan?
Seriously, in rapt envy for your radiator work! D Day
 

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1988 300SEL 158K;1980 450SL 31K
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Discussion Starter #18
I have a question re: Glass Bondo. Background is this: 560 SEL '88 was an inch deep in interior water when I bought it. But only having just removed the fenders to remove the bent hinges did I find part of the problem: the driver's side drain (one inch pipe connecting to a rubber hose) totally rusted and gone; passenger side hose split but the connector intact. More interesting is a bit of rust at the base of the firewall/tower -- whatever we call where fender meets door jamb. To try to insure that water goes where it should, given the sunroof also an issue and not wanting to repeat removing all the rugs for mold special shampoo and steam cleaning, I wondered if there is a Bondo that makes sense. When you say Glass Bondo do you mean like WestSystem epoxy with filler? Thanks , D Day
this product

 

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1988 300SEL 158K;1980 450SL 31K
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Discussion Starter #19
Today I tested the fan after receiving the control, worked perfectly fine, tomorrow I will paint the shroud.
25% of the fan speed at 76C
50% when you turn the AC on
75% at 85C
90% at 100C
AC on in closed garage at 89F ambient temp.
the temp. needle didn't move 83-85C or so

 

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'91 560SEC, '98 SL500
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Looks great - well done.
Report back in with the results after you've neatened up the wiring and done some actual driving on the highway and in stop and go traffic.
Yasin
 
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