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1998 w202 c class c180
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Discussion Starter #1
Hi
yesterday I walked down from my office to go home and jumped into my C180 1998 looking forward to the nice ride home with a new CD in the player, I proceeded to put the FOB into the slot and no go, oh dear. Steering locked and no life, would not do anything. Tried everything that one could do disconnect battery reconnect battery foot on brake foot off brake in park in neutral wiggle and wiggle etc. Rang up my son who is a mechanic had him come out and do his stuff he found a blown fuse but that was only the boot light and rear interior light( now working). After some time we admitted defeat and called a car trailer. It was difficult to get the car on to the back of this truck since the steering was slightly turning right but with some manoeuvring we were able to load the car onto the truck. $180 later it was home.

I do not ever want this to happen again so I am going to ask The Question to some this may seem unthinkable but I here goes......

Has anybody been able to bypass all of these theft deterrents ie put an old fashion simple switch ( to turn things on) and start button to start car?

or is this really impossible to do with so many circuits and electrical modules.
 

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1998 w202 c class c180
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15 Posts
Discussion Starter #2 (Edited)
Done It

Hi all
well I have successfully been able to restart my car without spending anything other than time and a lot of worrying. It took all day to read around using my Star C3 program trying to understand what was happening between the three culprits that like to make life difficult for would be thieves but instead make the owners pocket very very light ie the FOB, the Steering lock module and of cause the ignition slot or more correctly the EIS.
After reading, I finally got the courage to remove the ignition module and I proceeded to strip it completely. Studied it after pulling it out of its case and notice that as the FOB moves 10 degrees it runs into a plastic lever that is suppose to be raised by the authorization of the steering lock module after it has unlocked itself from the steering column. Once this lever is raised the FOB can be moved to position one then position two. So being desperate not to have to spend money at the stealership (already spent $180 towing vehicle home) I got my little grinder (the one that can do engraving) and just spent two minutes in taking the edge off the shaft/barrel so that the lever would ride up and over and allow the FOB into position one.
FOB would now turn easily into position one and two. Put back into case then attached the cables and notice a thick grey cable with a white plastic rectangular prism that was some sort of switch(I will come back to this). Put FOB into slot all turn nicely and wallah lights on dash in position two but no start when try moving FOB all the way. So open bonnet and studied car, jumped into the pit and found the starter motor with a purple cable at solenoid. Opened lid off where the computer and relays are and found the same purple cable. Tested for continuity wit a multimeter just to make sure and yes it was the same lead. So I jumped the lead and the starter motor turned but no ignition.....heart sank.
Back to FOB and remembered the thick grey cable and plastic white prism took it off the EIS and had my son push it in while I was jumping the starter and car started....exhilaration..... Now because my car's steering was locked and there was no communication between EIS and steering module I got the grinder out (the big one) and cut the whole lock module off(as I said in my first post I do not want to pay out for a tow truck again). I also had no choice as I could not unlock the steering lock!!!
So there you have it, a car that will never be steering locked again.
Procedure to start car now is put FOB into EIS, turn to position two and push a simple button that runs to the starter. The thick grey cable with the white plastic prism is detached from the EIS and permanently on.
Total cost 6 hours of head scratching.
 

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1998 w202 c class c180
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15 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
oh I forgot to mention that to start my car now I can use anyone's FOB, that is it only needs the case to turn the EIS to position one and two. so no more worrying about dropping my old key!!
 

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W202 C1997
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301 Posts
Well done, that’s pioneering work, I always thought that a bypass for these FOB / EIS faults couldn’t be done in this “old school” of way.

I have the same car and year as yours but don’t have this problem, as yet, but am glad to hear there is a way around any ignition or key FOB issue that I might encounter in the future.

Did you take any pictures?

Dec
 

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1998 w202 c class c180
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Discussion Starter #5
Thanks
being 'old school' as you say I did not take pictures (and at the time one eye about getting through the maze of Mercedes electronics to worry about taking pictures, kicking myself now though I should have)and am loathe to pull it apart again but am happy to answer any questions that would help to make it clear.
 

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W202 C1997
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301 Posts
I didn’t expect you would have been taking picture, just wishful thinking on my part, I can figure it all out from your description anyway, your words will have more meaning when things are taken apart and so what you mean will become apparent.

Question for you, is the switch, with the thick Grey cable and plastic White prism ON all the time, because its disconnected from the EIS or have you engineered it so its ON all the time, just wondering what it’s for and if its consuming any power.

Also, is the push button, to start the engine, is that on the Purple wire at the Red arrows arrow in picture below?



Dec
 

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1998 w202 c class c180
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Discussion Starter #7 (Edited)
Hi
Yes that is the the right wire that goes direct to the starter solenoid. Push button on that line to the nearest power supply which I have yet to decide.
The White rectangular prism with thick grey cable reminds me of a co-axle cable like TV aerial cable, you cannot miss it. It is a little tricky to take off the EIS you push in the two little clips then slide the prism towards the key side a little bit then it pops out to the side ie you can't push it through because their is a long thin tongue that is the lever for turning the switch on and off.

At the moment the grey cable has to be triggered manually when push starter button. It does not have to be on when car started nor does it appear to worry car if on. Perhaps someone else can answer why this is so.
 

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1998 w202 c class c180
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Discussion Starter #8
To finish off my plan is to have the grey cable on always I have not tidied up car yet as it is Sunday will do tomorrow (public holiday here)and put everything back. As for using power not sure will look into this tomorrow. My feeling is that it simply sends a signal to relevant component to make all well to start and it is not a current draining circuit.
 

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1998 w202 c class c180
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Discussion Starter #9
The white rectangular prism in place but ready to be released from EIS note clips have been pushed in allowing the box to slide forward then pulled side-ways note tiny tags and spaces for the tags to move through.

Showing the little clips and tags
IMG_20140608_105404.jpg
The tongue that is pushed inward by EIS
IMG_20140608_105349.jpg
The tongue pushed inward showing the end of a cable not unlike a bicycle cable!! You can just see it the silver inside the prism
IMG_20140608_105658.jpg
This is the outer ring that you need to unscrew anticlockwise to release the EIS from dash. You can use a simple flat screw driver that you work on the tags to turn the ring. In first and third picture you can see the thick thread on the head of the EIS that the ring attaches to.
IMG_20140608_105814.jpg [/ATTACH]
 

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W202 C1997
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301 Posts
Thanks for taking the trouble to take those pictures, the make things a lot clearer.
Normally, while the engine is running you can’t engage the starter motor, it’s locked out, you have to turn the key FOB back to zero before you can again engage the starter motor, perhaps that’s what the purpose of the Grey cable and prism switch.

Just wondering, what’s the position now with your modification, I mean if you accidentally pressed the starter button while the engine is running then you could do a lot of damage to the flywheel?

Dec.
 

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2000 C230 Kompressor, 2009 C300 Sport
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Did you happen to check if the transponder inside your fob did not just come unsoldered? I had this same thing happen to me. I only had one key so I ordered a new key through my indy mechanic for $250. Then I felt comfortable taking apart my fob and found the solder on the transponder was cracked. I resoldered the transponder and now I have 2 keys.
 

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Hi all
well I have successfully been able to restart my car without spending anything other than time and a lot of worrying. It took all day to read around using my Star C3 program trying to understand what was happening between the three culprits that like to make life difficult for would be thieves but instead make the owners pocket very very light ie the FOB, the Steering lock module and of cause the ignition slot or more correctly the EIS.
After reading, I finally got the courage to remove the ignition module and I proceeded to strip it completely. Studied it after pulling it out of its case and notice that as the FOB moves 10 degrees it runs into a plastic lever that is suppose to be raised by the authorization of the steering lock module after it has unlocked itself from the steering column. Once this lever is raised the FOB can be moved to position one then position two. So being desperate not to have to spend money at the stealership (already spent $180 towing vehicle home) I got my little grinder (the one that can do engraving) and just spent two minutes in taking the edge off the shaft/barrel so that the lever would ride up and over and allow the FOB into position one.
FOB would now turn easily into position one and two. Put back into case then attached the cables and notice a thick grey cable with a white plastic rectangular prism that was some sort of switch(I will come back to this). Put FOB into slot all turn nicely and wallah lights on dash in position two but no start when try moving FOB all the way. So open bonnet and studied car, jumped into the pit and found the starter motor with a purple cable at solenoid. Opened lid off where the computer and relays are and found the same purple cable. Tested for continuity wit a multimeter just to make sure and yes it was the same lead. So I jumped the lead and the starter motor turned but no ignition.....heart sank.
Back to FOB and remembered the thick grey cable and plastic white prism took it off the EIS and had my son push it in while I was jumping the starter and car started....exhilaration..... Now because my car's steering was locked and there was no communication between EIS and steering module I got the grinder out (the big one) and cut the whole lock module off(as I said in my first post I do not want to pay out for a tow truck again). I also had no choice as I could not unlock the steering lock!!!
So there you have it, a car that will never be steering locked again.
Procedure to start car now is put FOB into EIS, turn to position two and push a simple button that runs to the starter. The thick grey cable with the white plastic prism is detached from the EIS and permanently on.
Total cost 6 hours of head scratching.
I did exactly what you did but my c180 won't start its cranking over but won't start have you got any idea???
 

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w163 02 ML500 W210 97 E50Amg w202 99 C230K w124 - need more space, time to build again
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Does that work on the c250 turbo biesel 2000 model
Welcome Leonvwk, :)

You do know this thread is over 3 years old.....
you may wish to post a new thread requesting assistance.
 

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And l am hoping it would work on a 2000 E 320 please let me know cause l was thinking the same but l was afraid l might screw something up but thought it could be done. I am ready now to try since at this point l am stranded and need and help any input would be totally appreciated
Sincerely
Stranded Army Vet


help any input w
 
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