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So, once you energized the 24V supply, did the 220 appliances work from an inverter? Or did you just have DC? as I said before the fuel lines on my Webasto look untouched but the floor shows wear and tear. Maybe they just used it for storage? Or only used it in warm climates?
I think I wouldn't be doing much arranging with those non-perishables around....except where to put the skylight as I lay flat on my back.
 

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So, once you energized the 24V supply, did the 220 appliances work from an inverter? Or did you just have DC? as I said before the fuel lines on my Webasto look untouched but the floor shows wear and tear. Maybe they just used it for storage? Or only used it in warm climates?
I think I wouldn't be doing much arranging with those non-perishables around....except where to put the skylight as I lay flat on my back.
mine didnt have an inverter.

wiring it up to the truck is easy too.
 

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That mount looks made for a grounding (earthing) auger. The point of the auger sits in the hole at the bottom and the top of the mount should have straps to secure the upper end of the auger.

These were common on the original unmolested radio trucks.

Bob
 

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ELEKTRO

Hi Bob,
I think I will move that bracket to another part of the cabin. I connected up a pair of batteries to energize the 24V system. In doing so I found all the terminal ends wrapped in greased paper. They look like they have never been used-no marks on terminal portions-no scuffing on the fasteners. Nice anodized hold downs with bronze fittings. The 24V portion of the box has distro running throughout the box-even to exterior front and rear. The rear exterior accessible panel has it's own conventional fuse panel. Everything else is on a circuit breaker. The red shut-offs throughout the box interrupt power to all the circuits except the ventilation and heating circuits (which are 2 separate systems run from the 24V portion also)
There are 3 flexi style 40w incandescent bulb fixtures also run from the DC system. They all worked and have a spigot style arrangement that fastens to the overhead rails.They use rubber covered dust protected switches. There is also a nifty hold down for the flexi neck for storage/positioning that utilizes a large 'o' ring. So, when they need replacing it won't require a proprietary rubber component. These 3 fixtures are rated at 60W each but I could see that running all 3 of the 40W 'ers was having a drain on the system so these are perfect candidates for LED conversion. 20-30 watts LED vs. 120-180 watts conventional.
I snapped in a NATO jerry can of diesel to the fuel feed, turned the Webasto fan on and then turned the Webasto control to Start position. It 'betriebed' (operated) for about 30 seconds and shut off. Then I went outside and removed the poly cover from the ventilation portion of the Webasto (d'oh) The factory cover says something like 'remove' in German but that has faded away.
Second attempt after a bit of smoking like a barn find tractor and she was running like a champ. It has a secondary fan setting on the start dial which I am uncertain about as a fan can also be engaged with another switch on the Webasto.
The separate 'fresh air ventilation' is operated with a single switch in front left corner above Webasto. There is a second switch that does not do anything and there is also a covered identical cut-out on the right side above the DC panel that I bet is for a second ventilation system-if optioned). It has removable covers on the inside and out and might make a good place for a ready made window.
The DC panel also has a switch to operate a fan in the panel itself to cool it down. Old school.
The 220 50HZ. portion of the box which looks to be entirely separate from the DC portion (i.e. no Inverter) is in the rear left and connected via an exterior port. The AC runs throughout the box and also runs 4 single tube florescent fixtures. I haven't decided how to tackle the 220 issue yet. It's down on the list-but it would be nice to be able to have those lights working. I know 220 50HZ gensets can be had...but do I want to go there? Any 110-120 power I bring in to the box will obviously be on a separate system.
 

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Those masts are great. It will get you cell reception in the boonies or good wifi on a camp ground.
Unwound the mast a bit....giving it a bit of lubrication helped. That thing is very cool. The final parts of fastening it are eluding me so I may have to contrive something.
 

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fingered it out...

few more pics
The ladder hangs from 2 hooks and has fairly easy slide clasp on it's 3rd attachment point. Slide up and lift ladder off.
 

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The Belgian Army U1350 mogs have their own style of radio/ambulance box that is built as
a 3-point mounted box like the BW Binz box my truck has although shaped differently. I like those Belgian box styles because they are not an add on. I dont know what type of diesel fired heater they have though.
TLane
 

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I don't know who builds this box designed for the Belgian ARMY. But I like it. Seems to be a little more low profile than the BINZ box I have.
TL
 

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lets get pedantic

That does look low; for very short people.
I took the inside cover from the opening above the 24V breaker box. It had foam bonded to it. The hole is finished along the inside edges with alu framing. The screws holding the covers in from both sides are machine screws tapped into the foam/ alu sandwich. No self-tapping screw bodgery here. I may keep it simple and pop in a piece of lexan for now. Hold it in with either urethane or silicone.
 

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Discussion Starter #95
The Boxes that Terry posted, from what I have read, are a
Step up in Ambulance / Radio Box construction. The quick
Identifier is the Arch in the box over the rear wheel. These
Boxes ( so I have heard ) are a composite foam sandwich
Construction, which are lighter, tighter, and better insulated
Than the Binz Boxes.
I don't know much about them, and I'm curious as to the actual weight, durability, and ' roll-over' survivablity, compared
To the BW boxes.
It has often been stated that the BW spec Ambulance
Boxes are on the heavy side, but that weight is justified
Because of the stoutness of the structure....To protect the
Inhabitants in the event of a rollover....
With these newer composite boxes, I wonder how they
Compare- it sounds like they are a military box that has been
Built along the lines of a Unicat camper.
Perhaps MagMog has some insight ...
 

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John
My Binz box weighs about 1600 lbs give or take a 100, guessing. My total wt is 13,600. truck and Binz box. Assuming the cab and chassis is about 11,900 or 12,000 lbs. The Binz box is pretty stout. After I removed the steel ambulance racks, the truck lost over 800 lbs!
Total wt was 14,400 lbs prior to rack removal.
TL
 

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John
My Binz box weighs about 1600 lbs give or take a 100, guessing. My total wt is 13,600. truck and Binz box. Assuming the cab and chassis is about 11,900 or 12,000 lbs. The Binz box is pretty stout. After I removed the steel ambulance racks, the truck lost over 800 lbs!
Total wt was 14,400 lbs prior to rack removal.
TL

although i dont have any real data, i would guess that the binz ambulance box is a fair bit more. even the little Zeppelin full alum unit i got is has a tag for 750kg (1650 pounds). the ambulance mogs come already with heavier rate springs in the back to compensate for the weight.
 

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TMax--that could be but I dont know what a cab n chassis weighs on a BW-U1300.
Maybe somebody will chime in.
TL
 

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After I stripped out the Binz box including stretchers and lining I had it weighed. 5 x Conti MPT81 365/80, standard fuel tank full, driver out. 11,861lbs (5,380kgs).
 
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