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Discussion Starter #1
Hello, newbie here.
Just wanted to ask opinons regarding a 1990 300sl I'm about to get.
Some work has to be done as said by owner.
Power seat modules need replacing as it was flooded, and water sip in to floor area. Same as soft top module. Are these expensive repairs? Aside from those issues, Engine and tranny are fine. Are there any things that get broken once the floor area gets wet? All indicator lights work, no other probs.

Would like to hear opinions about my situation. The car is a bargain, $5k asking price. Thank you.
 

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Spend a little more money and get ALOT more car!!!!!!!!!!! A car that has been WET is going to have problems down the road!!!!! While you are at it, PLEASE fill out your PROFILE comletely, Thank You!!!
 

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Maybe you can do better...

Marianna,

maybe you can do better than $5k for a '90 300SL that has been wet. We don't know your location from your profile, so it's hard to guess.

There are many more expensive parts that could have suffered, depending on the circumstances. It is wonderful to get an SL that is in good shape, and I would encourage you to find exactly the best one you can reasonably afford. However, it is very expensive and aggravating to have bought a Mercedes that needs a lot of work and parts.

Good luck, and please let us know what you end up with!

-Klaus

[email protected]
 

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I agree with Klaus. I bought a 1992 300SL for $5,000.00 with many problems and it didn't get wet. Walk away. There are lots of SL's out there with every thing working for $5K. You'll end up with close to $10K into it; that's no bargin.
 

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Please, please, please, stay away from "wet". That car relies totally on electrical input and sensors. Not only are some of your major controllers trash, but so are the harness connectors. Run away! :eek:
 

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"Bargain" SLs are for accomplished do-it-yourselfers, even then you should stick with a dry one. Keep looking around. The best deals are going to be at a little higher price.
 

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The Most Expensive Mercedes, is a Cheap One...!

All of the above advice is spot one.

Do your homework, ask a ton of questions, expect to pay twice that amount for one that has been well cared for, and is documented.

The $5K wet one will end up costing you another $5K to get it right, if your lucky.

More than likely it will haunt to to death, and you will end up running away hating Mercedes forever.

An R129 is a complicated high maintenance car, you need to buy the best one you can find with-in your budget.

Do you know what the weak points of an R129 are? If you don't you have no business buying one.

There is a sticky in this forum on what to look for when buying a SL, read it and everything else you can. Even then, take the one you eventually find to a MB dealer for a complete Pre-Purchase Inspection, cost ya about $200 or so, but could save you thousands.

All that being said, I've owned 4 corvettes and a bunch of other nice cars, and I enjoy driving my R129 more than any of them... A class ride
 

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Please, please, please, stay away from "wet". That car relies totally on electrical input and sensors. Not only are some of your major controllers trash, but so are the harness connectors. Run away! :eek:
I have to sell mine.... Moving to Fla in Dec. Mine needs the CAN module ( the one farthest from the windshield) I can't bring my '93 500. Mine's in pretty good shape after some DYI & a nice MB Indy to diagnose. ( it already has the new engine harness, etc)

I drove it up to Orange County from San Diego today...... man-o-man... I'll miss it.

I'll figure $4,000 to sell ..priced to more than compensate for the DYI budget, the car will be great!
 

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Drop out, Tune in

being old and having attended several auctions, here is my observation.
300SL gullwing pay up, if restored. 22 year old 300sl that has been in flood, run! If you want to dispose of 5K and continue to trickle money into the economy, try a charity. Much greater joy and no oil, hydraulic fluid or ethylene glycol wasted in the endeavor.:rolleyes:
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Thank you so much for your inputs!
I guess I'll have to stay away from this one. I currently own 2 w124's, one euro ver and the other one is us ver. When I inspected the car, I just based it on my ownership of my w124. Just wanted inputs from r129 owners if there can be really big problems I'll encounter with the car, since i just need modules to make it work. But still i'm not sure if there are other complications from that kind of damage. Are there any other big expensive electric modules located on the flooring of r129's? As a 21 yr old car I'd expect that there would be some things to be done other than the owner said. Power windows, stereo, aircon, gauges works fine. Driven it already and no hiccups or terrible sounds I hear. Again, I just based my observations by ownership of w124.

I'm from the Philippines by the way. There are not so many r129's around here. My plan was just to get the car and slowly fix things that I saw that needs working. More of a project car actually. Miscalculated the conversion of the price. Usual price of r129's here range from $19,000-$23,000. The price of the one I'm checking is $10k. Most of them are japan imports.

Truly appreciate all the help! Thanks alot!
 

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That's does change things a bit. Good U.S. early 129s are worth only $6k-8K. But I still say don't do it unless you're prepared to do the work yourself - it could be a lot more work than you can now envision. By the way can you import cars from the U.S.?
 

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Discussion Starter #13
That's does change things a bit. Good U.S. early 129s are worth only $6k-8K. But I still say don't do it unless you're prepared to do the work yourself - it could be a lot more work than you can now envision. By the way can you import cars from the U.S.?
Actually one of the reasons I'm considering this car is because it's a US Ver and not a japanese import. I envy you guys as you have alot of choices there and lower price rate than what we have here. Regarding importing cars from U.S. I have a friend who currently lives in U.S. and has dual citizenship and talking to him about importing one since my father is a licensed customs broker and we have a brokerage firm. I'd ask my father regarding taxes and duties that will be paid if ever I could tell my friend to get one there and import it here. Problem here is the law of corruption that is with the customs:mad:
 

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Actually one of the reasons I'm considering this car is because it's a US Ver and not a japanese import. I envy you guys as you have alot of choices there and lower price rate than what we have here. Regarding importing cars from U.S. I have a friend who currently lives in U.S. and has dual citizenship and talking to him about importing one since my father is a licensed customs broker and we have a brokerage firm. I'd ask my father regarding taxes and duties that will be paid if ever I could tell my friend to get one there and import it here. Problem here is the law of corruption that is with the customs:mad:
How much does it cost to import a car to the Philippines? From Oakland or Long Beach CA to Manila? I live in California... I do a bit of business, electronics, in The Philippines... As you say getting it through customs will be the big issue... I've been to Manila/Makati and up and down The South Super Highway 20-30 times over the years and often thought about bringing California cars into The Philippines... I think good condition Montero's or as you call them Pajero's, and Landcruisers, BMW's, MB etc. would do well over there. I just think it would be a nightmare setting up the business and putting up with the Bull Sh** that Philippine customs officials could put out.
 

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I remember about 20 years ago, a powerboat team I worked for was waiting for, from out England, a Cougar Catamaran off-shore race boat. It was at the shore in Florida on a freighter. We waited 3 weeks, and nothing.... Then I found out the Longshoreman's Union waited for a "donation" to the union before they would off-load the 40' boat.

I don't know how it all ended up, but all's I know, is the Union was corrupt.

So I don't know which, if Customs or the mafia-unions are worse.
 

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how did it happen?

Marrianna,

It could be that the car only received a downpour when the top was open, in which case the seat controllers, the relays next to them, and the soft top controller would be the first victims. That wouldn't be too bad, given the numbers you are quoting us. Conversely, if the car was in any kind of flood, then there are far too many components all over the place that may have suffered a lot. Thus, you may want to find out just how much water has been in the car. For example, are there any signs of water intrusion from the bottom of the trunk (meaning, did the water come into the cabin from top, or did the car end up more or less swimming)?

We have had customers from the Philippines buy a complete main wiring harness, just because they found so many contacts corroded. Once you get to that point, it is obvious that the pieces attached to the harness may have suffered even more...

-Klaus

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Discussion Starter #18 (Edited)
Snowfan, I will ask my father regarding shipping cars here. Yeah those japan imports I mentioned goes through a certain port here, legally. You would need alot of connections if you were to set up car importing bussiness here :) jap cars are converted from rh drive to lh drive so I won't bother with those as some have sloppy jobs done. Euro cars are originak lefthand drive.

Lighthouse, the car was parked in the owners residence when the flood went high because of a storm we had. but accdg to the owner the water just sipped in through the flooring. Basing it from the waterline mark from the garage, the water level was on the floor area of the car. There are no signs that the car went swimming as I had a friend whose w124 submerged into the flood which is definitely a disaster for him and after all the repairs were done and detailing, the car was never the same. The smell was awful still. I'm accounting on all of the repairs that I'm going to spend. If I end up $3k spent here on repairs then I guess that won't be bad. I'm actually more concerned on the engine and tranny regarding the flood so thats what I really inspected first and since it's good all I have to fix are the ones in the floor area, My plan is to use this one on weekends only and fix the floor area asap if ever i get it and slowly fix/build other misc. Apart frome those modules the paint, interior are great.

And as i have asked, my main concern is aside from those power seats and top module residing there, are there any other important things that can get damaged from water on that area?

Mountei55, i was surprised that it smells just like a what a merc should smell. It definitely does not smell any dead fish. My us ver w124 has 34k miles only and a fresh interior and they both smell the same.
 

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water level

The soft top controller sits about six inches above the lowest spot in the cabin. That means you certainly had the seat motors wet, and water has come up pretty high. I would worry most about interior electrical parts: top hydraulic pump in the rear (the motor got submerged, but it may be salvageable), lots of connectors in the wiring harnesses (that's a matter of cleaning up) - and lingering smells.

If you buy it, I would take out the seats and carpet, and give them a very thorough cleaning, as well as dry out anything else inside the car.

I'm actually not too worried about engine and tranny. Simple test: check the fluid that first comes out of the drain plugs (Water is heavier than oil. If there is rusty water, stay away. Just a little bit of clean water is not the end of the world, but you will have to flush the fluids well.)

I have restored a Diesel pusher RV that was in fresh water up to the dashboard - it was a lot of work, but things turned out fine and I know now how to fix anything on that beast! It had water in the engine (through the intake valves), transmission, and differential. I don't think that would be the case for you, based on the description so far. The breather holes on these are pretty high up.

Oh, and make sure to dump all water out of the hydraulic pump before ever even moving the top...

The big unknown is the labor involved, if you have to pay shop rates. If you could fix everything yourself, then I (or many other folks parting out their cars) would only need a list of parts from you and ship everything you need for far less than the $3k you quoted.

-Klaus

[email protected]
 
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