[cowboyt]

That may well be due to the ABS/BAS/ESP light. On the wife's 2000 S500 a few years ago, tne electrical connector for the right front ABS sensor apparently had a bit of oxidation on it, so I took a wire brush to it. Fixed the light, and it also fixed the stiffer steering. See, these cars reduce power steering assistance to indicate to you that there's a problem with the ABS/BAS/ESP systems.

 

[ThatOneGuy99]

That may well be due to the ABS/BAS/ESP light. On the wife's 2000 S500 a few years ago, tne electrical connector for the right front ABS sensor apparently had a bit of oxidation on it, so I took a wire brush to it. Fixed the light, and it also fixed the stiffer steering. See, these cars reduce power steering assistance to indicate to you that there's a problem with the ABS/BAS/ESP systems.

But once I give it some gas it steers like normal (aside from the whining noise of a failing impeller). I was going to order a new steering pump kit, but now I'll wait until the scan tool gets here, don't want to throw parts at it and hope it works. Anyways, I just drove it around and the warning lights are off, only malfunctions are for lights and washer fluid.

 

[ThatOneGuy99]

Small update, new rear struts fixed the air suspension issues, no codes in the system now. My scan tool came in and I scanned everything, oh boy I don't know where to start, there were 147 codes across every module (except engine). I cleared all modules and only 47 came back, most of them are not concerning at all, but I'm just curious if it's fairly common for modules to throw codes for things that work, I've got 14 codes for the climate control (temperature and diverter flaps, and sun/temperature sensors), but everything works properly as far as I can tell. There's one for the overhead control panel saying the unit is defective, but everything works. The SAMs are the worst off as far as codes go, the front right and rear are having codes for almost every light (license plate lights, turn signal lamp, low beams, high beams, fog lights, and coolant pump), but again all of these work perfectly fine. The only codes that truly bug me are the PSE codes, it's throwing out that the safety time of the central locking has been reached for all doors, trunk lid, and the raise/lower of rear headrests, which unlike the other codes these things don't work.

 

[cowboyt]

This is why you need SDS. You're going to be doing some troubleshooting, and to do that, you'll need to do a bunch of actuation tests, which to my knowledge, only SDS can do all that stuff. I know, iCarsoft is cheaper, but it just isn't good enough for a W220's level of complexity. You really want to get that PSE issue fixed before you have to spend US $950 for a new pump.

If you're seeing a bunch of codes for lights, yet things are working, they might be simply "stored" codes, i. e. they're old, no longer active, codes.

 

[wallyp]

It is normal for a W220 to show quite a few codes if it hasn't been cleared for a few years. The car remembers everything that has happened to it, such as the wipers stopping in the wrong position.

I know nothing about your scanner, but SDS (STAR Diagnostic System shows codes with "F" (current and stored, or with "f" (stored only, meaning that it is not currently a problem). If you cleared everything (and the scanner actually did clear every code), then virtually all of the trouble codes should be "F" - currently bad.

It is possible that your battery is marginal, and this can cause trouble codes.

The PSE system monitors virtually all of the pneumatic operations, and compares the time that the operation takes compared to the expected time. A leak in one door soft-close actuator can cause other soft-close actuators to take longer than the standard, especially if the pump vanes or motor are worn or faulty.

I agree with cowboyt - SDS is pretty much vital. You should also consider this - If you buy SDS and learn to use it, you can almost always get more for a proven and working system than you originally paid for it. Many owners would like to have a system, but they are scared of the hassles and uncertainties of buying from an unknown Chinese vendor. They will be much happier dealing with a known Forum member.

 

[ThatOneGuy99]

This can do most actuation tests, not all though, I'm debating if I want to keep the car depending on the severity of these issues. The car sat for months without the battery connected, most codes were like D2B improper initialization and other random codes. Once I cleared all codes it went to 47 and 17 were PSE faults, the rest are issues with parking sensors, and seat controls.

 

[ed7c9]

You're gonna see a lot of PSE issues, that's probably where most of your money will be spent on this car TBH. Other annoyances aren't the end of the world and should be expected on a 20+ yo car. Those pumps will bleed you dry if you don't find where the leak is and fix it as they will continue to burn out. One of the things I kinda hated about the 220 because it was more than a bad parking sensor.

 

[tusabes]

To reset the soft close doors, pull the 20 amp fuse, located right below the rear seat, bottom cushion, there’s a little plastic fuse door right under the rear seat, bottom passenger side.

Pull out the 20 amp fuse, replace it and if the soft close doors start working again, you likely have an air leak in the vacuum system,

For the power trunk, most common is the hydraulic pump is low on fluid, not bad struts. The hydraulic pump for the trunk lift is located next to the battery. It uses transmission fluid.

 

[ThatOneGuy99]

To reset the soft close doors, pull the 20 amp fuse, located right below the rear seat, bottom cushion, there’s a little plastic fuse door right under the rear seat, bottom passenger side.

Pull out the 20 amp fuse, replace it and if the soft close doors start working again, you likely have an air leak in the vacuum system,

For the power trunk, most common is the hydraulic pump is low on fluid, not bad struts. The hydraulic pump for the trunk lift is located next to the battery. It uses transmission fluid.

I was wondering what that little pump was, haven't had much time to go digging around yet. I did pull the fuse already and let it sit for a good minute or so, the pump didn't even try to suction the doors, I'll pull it apart and check all the lines and everything on my next day off.

 

[ThatOneGuy99]

So I just pulled the covers off and looked at everything, the pump does work it attempts to close, it looks like it might be a just a tad low on fluid though. I also found out that the trunk does suction closed, if I get it to latch it will pull itself closed so that's a win. The only thing that looks put of place is this little line that comes up out of the chassis, I looked around and couldn't see anything obvious for it to connect to and I couldn't find any diagrams or videos that show it being there.

 

[Witek_M]

The only thing that looks put of place is this little line that comes up out of the chassis, I looked around and couldn't see anything obvious for it to connect to and I couldn't find any diagrams or videos that show it being there.

It is battery vent. Positive side should have blind plug, negative "L" shaped fitting that vent hose goes over.