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'06 ML 350, '00 E320 Wagon
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Alright all, my question is pretty straight forward. I'm going to look at a E300 TD soon and I'd love to learn from all of you what your tips are for checking the car out; known problems to look for, trends, the good, the bad, whatever.

Thanks!:bowdown:
 

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'72 350SL, '85 300D, '98 E320, '19 Subaru Outback (sold '14 GLK250)
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10,338 Posts
Alright all, my question is pretty straight forward. I'm going to look at a E300 TD soon and I'd love to learn from all of you what your tips are for checking the car out; known problems to look for, trends, the good, the bad, whatever.

Thanks!:bowdown:
Surprised no-one answered you. But perhaps that is because common W210 issues are covered in the stickies under General. Have a look there.
 

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I'm not familiar with the 300TD so I can't give you technical tips there. You'll have to depend on other experienced users for that. I don't know what your used car to buying experience is but though I'm no xpert, I can help with that. There's no substitute to performing a test drive just like you plan to drive the car on a daily basis. I would start with a body inspection (in & out) - rust, dents, paint color/texture changes all tell a story, usually not a good one. If you don't feel comfortable with what you see, try to get someone to drive behind you when you take a test drive (later) so they can gauge the entire alignment of the car. But please recognize that we are dealing with an older car with wear/tear - I'm sure you can separate wear/tear with abuse!

Next, pull open the hood. Does the pull handle operate smoothly? Insopect the condition of the motor compartment - because it doesn't look like you could eat b'fast on it doesn't mean there's a problem. I usually look for wet spots as in oil/fluid leakage. Again, depending on what you are looking for, a wet spot may not be an issue. For me, all wet spots are an issue because I don't have the mechanical skills to fix leaks.

Get the dipstick out, observe the color and run your fingers through the stick to feel matter that's not supposed to be there.

In any case, you get my point. If you think that you need more help, PM me.
 

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E320/E250 Bluetec Ford F350 6.7l
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The engines really prove themselves to be bulletproof. Beside fuel tubings deteriorating after 10 years they don't have real issues.
I never could find confirmation diesels have reinforced spring perches, but nobody reported one breaking off on diesel.
Bad news those models keep high prices. Bad for you that is :D
 

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1999 e300 td
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30 Posts
couple of things

I recently went through this, bought a 99 with 70k in April time frame. So far, I have changed out the glow plugs, changed the oil, changed the fuel filters, and serviced the transmission. I have the transmission plug to change now. The transmission service was easy enough, as were the glow plugs. I have heard tale of these cars requiring glow plugs to be changed out with relative frequency, but I sure hope not. Mine were not the original glow plugs at 75k, and they needed to be replaced. So, with 80k on the car, I am on atleast the 3rd set of glow plugs. Lots of good information here and some other forums to help out with the maintenance and repair, which has been very helpful for me since I intend to do all of the work on the car. I would likely not have this car if I had to pay somebody to work on it.

check out Fuelly | Share and Compare Your MPG for fuel mileage numbers, mine is listed on there. I am in the 26.5 mpg range for mixed type driving. Not as good as some report but this is what I am getting.
 

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E320/E250 Bluetec Ford F350 6.7l
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Suppose the glow plugs fail in cold climates where they work harder. We own our 98 E300DT for about 5 years, added about 60k miles to total of 220k and never touched GP
Taking W210 to shops is always asking for trouble. Just yesterday friends called me with troubles with AC in their on 99 E320. They had the car in the MERCEDES only shop in their area and after working on it 4 hr the mechanic spread his hand giving up on finding the problem.
When they called me, the husband just had a surgery, so I guided the wife over the phone how to access clima sensor readings and judged the evaporator sensor bad. She know something about the car, moved the wires going to the sensor and AC is working now. Hope it will stay working as I am almost a God in their eyes.
 

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99 300td
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Suppose the glow plugs fail in cold climates where they work harder. We own our 98 E300DT for about 5 years, added about 60k miles to total of 220k and never touched GP
Taking W210 to shops is always asking for trouble. Just yesterday friends called me with troubles with AC in their on 99 E320. They had the car in the MERCEDES only shop in their area and after working on it 4 hr the mechanic spread his hand giving up on finding the problem.
When they called me, the husband just had a surgery, so I guided the wife over the phone how to access clima sensor readings and judged the evaporator sensor bad. She know something about the car, moved the wires going to the sensor and AC is working now. Hope it will stay working as I am almost a God in their eyes.
Kajtek1, you would become my God too if you could help me how to remove the hard plastic line sticking out at the rear of the IP. Removed the retainer and the horseshoe wedge but pulling the line out is a problem it always snaps back when I let go. It makes me think it is spring-loaded, and scared to use excessive force. Understand, I have to remove the pump to re-time it--99 300td. Another problem is the Assembly Basket, 601-589-05-14 00- supposed to be fastened with 3 screws but only 2 match the holes no matter how I twist it? I posted this question several times but no-one answers. I'm really stuck and I need help. Would be great if you answer with some encouragement. Cheers!
 

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'97 E300D, '85 300D, '66 VW 1300
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check out Fuelly | Share and Compare Your MPG for fuel mileage numbers, mine is listed on there. I am in the 26.5 mpg range for mixed type driving. Not as good as some report but this is what I am getting.[/QUOTE]

That's about what I'm getting in my '97 these days. Not as good as I'd hoped but it seems to be in the normal range.

@ OP - The glow light should come on in the lower right of the IP when you turn the key to the run position, stay on a few seconds, then go out. The car should then start up within a few seconds of cranking. If this happens, the glow plugs and circuit are probably OK. But a bad glow plug can be something to be reckoned with so I'm told.
 

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E320/E250 Bluetec Ford F350 6.7l
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Kajtek1, you would become my God too if you could help me how to remove the hard plastic line sticking out at the rear of the IP. Removed the retainer and the horseshoe wedge but pulling the line out is a problem it always snaps back when I let go. It makes me think it is spring-loaded, and scared to use excessive force. Understand, I have to remove the pump to re-time it--99 300td. Another problem is the Assembly Basket, 601-589-05-14 00- supposed to be fastened with 3 screws but only 2 match the holes no matter how I twist it? I posted this question several times but no-one answers. I'm really stuck and I need help. Would be great if you answer with some encouragement. Cheers!
Any picture? I was taking IP out on 603 engine just a month ago and per my observation the pumps have the same main body and delivery valves. You do not need to remove IP for small adjustment. Just loosen 3 big bolts, one more on the back of the pump and there is adjusting screw at the bottom that turns the pump on the brackets.
Tomorrow I am flying to pick up another 1998 E300DT what suppose to be car for my son. Low price as it has 251k on it and 3000 miles from California, but originally Texas car and on the pictures looks better than the black one my wife is driving so who knows who will be driving what . Wish me luck on the trip.

 

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99 300td
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Tks for reply and Bon Voyage on your trip. The car on the picture looks great to me. I probably have major adjustments on the IP since I had the head off to check the innards of pistons/walls etc. for possible damage. Had the pump out today, rotated to the high spot visible through the bolt-hole and secured it with the locking pin--locking pin my a.... In the process installing the pump the cam of the pump moved and nullified the setup. Now I have to take the pump out again and start anew. Had the crank on 15 deg. ATDC. The way it looks, I probably have to do it over and over again to get it right. Once I figured out how to use the adjusting screw (you mentioned) I may be able to get it that way.
 

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E320/E250 Bluetec Ford F350 6.7l
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Have 1 hr before leaving, so I can only advise you to see my topic in W124 section that started with no oil pressure and ended up with replacing IP gears. I used piece of 3/8" copper tubing as holding tool and it worked for me.
Our W124 after setting the injection to 14 degree can now spin the wheels on dry asphalt shifting 1/2 >>> 292,000 miles on the clock.
 
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