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1983 380SL, ivory/dk brown, 46k miles, dual roller timing chain. 1986 560SL, red/white, 190K mile.
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8,389 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Upper Radiator hose leaking, going to tackle this when the part arrives.
Anything special to know about burping the Radiator on an R107 other than
Heater On, press Upper Radiator Hose to relieve Air Bubbles, and keep the Overflow Tank filled?
 

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1985 380SL
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128 Posts
Your question is timely, Carl. I’ll be doing mine soon as well!
 

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One of the BW Old Guard/R129, W204 Moderator
1997 SL500- 40th Anniversary
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7,278 Posts
By the book, you need a pigtail so you can run the aux pump. Otherwise, park her nose-high, and run at idle with cap off until stat opens…. I am sure others will opine, and maybe even quite the full procedure from the fsm.
 

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Premium Member
1976 450SL, 1992 190e 2.3, 1984 300D turbo, 1966 VW bus
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914 Posts
I've drained all of my old mercs radiators many times no burping or special nonsense required. Fill it up, go for a drive, let it cool back down and top it back off
 

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Registered
1983 380SL, ivory/dk brown, 46k miles, dual roller timing chain. 1986 560SL, red/white, 190K mile.
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8,389 Posts
Discussion Starter · #5 ·
[
="natejgreene9871, post: 18274835, member: 1133033"]
I've drained all of my old mercs radiators many times no burping or special nonsense required. Fill it up, go for a drive, let it cool back down and top it back off
[/QUOTE]

Yes, that is how I've always done it to my R107s.
The reason I asked was after seeing some videos recommending a radiator burping tool, and wanted to gather folks here opinions. Thanks, I was just wanting to make sure.
 
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2007 ML320CDI, 1959 220SE, 1971 280SL, 1982 380SL
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859 Posts
The concern, if your thermostat does not have a bypass pin built in, is that it will be airlocked at the temperature sensing portion of the thermostat and the thermostat may not open resulting in overheat. I remove the upper radiator hose at the thermostat housing and then slowly fill the coolant. I look to be sure coolant starts to rise around the thermostat in its housing and it is filling the housing before reattaching the upper radiator hose and completing the filling. Run the engine to temperature before driving. Do keep your eye on the temperature gauge and be sure water flow starts at the proper temperature, as can be identified by the radiator tank becoming warm. Yes, chances are that it will be ok by just filling it, but it isn't worth not being absolutely sure.
 

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1983 380SL, ivory/dk brown, 46k miles, dual roller timing chain. 1986 560SL, red/white, 190K mile.
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8,389 Posts
Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Do others drill burp holes in t stats?
or just me
So you drill holes in the actual Thermostat?
I'm learning more about the "Fine Art of Burping" :)
 

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1955 300 SL
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787 Posts
Filling, running and refilling should do it for most cars. Some will drill a small hole in the rim of the thermostat to allow passage of coolant/air before the thermostat opens.
 

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1985 380SL
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Carl, your initial post spurred me to get off my butt yesterday and do something. I replaced the upper and lower hoses. I did not do the hose between the thermostat housing and the block, but have that as well as a thermostat for a future task. I had the car up on ramps so I could get to the lower hose and maybe that helped, like Ears said. I let the car get hot, watched the temp gauge, added fluid as necessary, and drove around 10 miles and no problems. I’ll keep an eye on the temperature and coolant level, but seems like burbing was not a concern.
I’ve got to stop reading this forum… it’s affecting my couch time! ;)
 

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Run the heater while the radiator cap is off. If you don’t have heat then there’s air in the system.
 

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Outstanding Contributor , Bob's Your Uncle!
83 280 SL- 5 speed-The PIG
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I've replaced the coolant 3 times over the years. Never had an air pocket issue until the 3 time....about 4 years ago.

Don't know why.

But I have an unused temp sensor in the head of my M110 (from the removed AC system) and I loosened that to get the air out.
 

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63’190D.73’450C.78’280D.89’300CE
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My experience in odd Land Rovers, Lotus and others with rads or heater cores above or below. Is the vehicle parked at an angle trick is about the only one outside of threading in a pressure cap and pushing in the fluid in which I have and use but... I prefer the angle and going though a heat cycle, with the pressure cap removed. I dont drive the car, maybe other than 5 minutes before as idling is not great for a cool engine.
 

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63’190D.73’450C.78’280D.89’300CE
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Most T stats you can get with relief valve which is just the hole and brass 1/2 rivet thing.
Stant and others though I haven’t looked since replacing mine in the 450 for a while.
 

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1983 380SL, ivory/dk brown, 46k miles, dual roller timing chain. 1986 560SL, red/white, 190K mile.
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8,389 Posts
Discussion Starter · #15 · (Edited)
I got the Upper Radiator hose in today and installed it on my 560SL.
I just filled the Overflow Tank full wit 50-50 Zerex, let idle with heater on, and pressed on the hose to relieve air.
Then took her for a spin, lot of hot air with heater on.
Waiting now for her to cool down and then I'll just top off the Overflow Tank.
With a Mercedes is this over simplification or is a more involved procedure necessary?

BTW, in the old days we would use water from a garden hose and gestimate a little on Antifreeze and call it done. Maybe even run just garden hose water in the Summer and pour a little antifreeze in when it started getting cold outside. :)
 
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