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Hi guys, Let me introduce myself first. I have a W163 ML 2002, i bought the car in Dubai, 148K really good price. Anyways, the thing is i took it to the workshop for general maintenance and because I want to replace some spare parts and when they gave me the budget my face was: :eek::eek::eek: lol

I'm not using the car everyday so I wanna do the thing right and after checking for a few days in the forum all the problems related with my car, now it's time to ask you guys if you can help me out.

I'm gonna post the problems they found in my car. I have to say i'm not an expert at all so unfortunately i can't follow the amazing DIY you guys posted in the forum.

I also attached the part that i think it has to be replaced with the prices from Mercedes Benz Dealer and other brands, so I'll ask you if you please tell me if it's worth it to put the original parts and what should i fix in the official workshop or in another mechanic.

thank you so much!

PS: I almost forgot...the list is huge and i want to fix everything but can you guys tell me in order of importance what would you fix first??? thanks again

PROBLEMS:


2. Valve cover gasket (L/R): LEAKING

Left: part# 113 016 02 21

BRUSS (OEM) $ 19,99
ELRING KLINGER: $ 10,99
VICTOR REINZ: $ 14,99
MB: $ 19,60

Right: part# 113 016 03 21

BRUSS (OEM) $ 19,99
ELRING KLINGER: $ 10,99
VICTOR REINZ: $ 14,99
MB: $ 19,60

3. Cylinder head gasket: LEAKING

Left: part# 113 016 02 20
part# 113 016 04 20

ELRING KLINGER: $ 51,99
MB: $ 58,40

Right: part# 113 016 03 20
part# 113 016 05 20

ELRING KLINGER: $ 51,99
MB: $ 58,40

5. All brake disc & brake pads rusty

FRONT BRAKE DISCS: (L/R) part# 163 421 05 12
MB: $ 86,99
ZIMMERMANN COAT Z: $71,89

FRONT BRAKE PADS: (L/R) part# 163 420 10 20
AKEBONO EURO: $ 114,99
BOSCH QUIETCAST: $ 66,99
MB: $ 122,99

REAR BRAKE DISCS: (L/R) part# 163 423 02 12

FRONT BRAKE PADS: (L/R) part#163 423 02 12
MB: $80,99
ZIMMERMANN COAT Z: $51,89

REAR BRAKE PADS: (L/R) part# 163 420 10 20
AKEBONO EURO: $ 102,99
BOSCH QUIETCAST: $ 50,99
MB: $ 139,99

7. Rear Right Door Seal REPLACE

Right Rear Door Weatherstrip Seal part#163 730 16 78
MB: $49,60

8. All wiper blade: REPLACE

Front wiper blades part# 170 820 08 45
BOSCH (OEM): $29,02

Rear tailgate wiper blade: part# 211 820 24 45
BOSCH (OEM): $8,99

14. Water reservoir LEAKING further check for function of windshield water boton

163 860 16 60 or 163 860 11 60?

DASHPOT: part# 163 860 16 60
MB: $131,20

RESERVOIR ASSY: part# 163 860 11 60
MB: $112,00

23. Rear crankshaft seal LEAKING

Rear Main Seal: part# 112 997 02 46
CORTECO-CFW: $22,99

24. Rack & Pinion LEAKING

Sterring Rack Boot Kit: part# 163 460 01 96
ZF (OEM): $34,99

25. Oil level sensor gasket LEAKING

Oil Level Sensor O-Ring: part# 023 997 43 48
MB: $3,94

Engine Oil level sensor: part# 006 153 27 28
MB: $96,00

26. Side shaft seal for selector lever LEAKING + transmission oil & filter

SUGGESTIONS???

Radial Shaft: part# 015 997 12 46
MB: $3,76

27. Power reservoir LEAKING

Reservoir: part# 000 460 01 83
MB: $26,00

Power Steering Reservoir to Pump Seal (Gasket): part# 000 466 18 80
MB: $2,72

Power Steering Fluid: Part# Q 1 46 0001
MB: $8,99


28. Differential side shaft seal LEAKING

SUGGESTIONS?????

29. Center bearing for propeller shaft

Carrier bearing kit: part# 163 410 00 10
MB: $188,80
SPICER (OEM) : ????

30. Rear shock absorber (Right) LEAKING

Rear Shock Absorber: part# 163 320 23 13
BILSTEIN: $307,99
MB: $336,00

32. A/C not cooling

34. Need to check Brake System: brake light not working
 

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Wow, that is one of the biggest lists I have seen posted.

Go with the drive line stuff first. If major parts fail there then the repairs go off the charts.

What really scares me is the head gasket. Not a common problem on these trucks and may reveal more problems once it is taken apart to replace. It is the most expensive item on the list to have repaired, but without a reliable engine there is no point in repairing anything else.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thank you so much, Noodles! I really appreciate your quick response. So then, the first thing I should do is ask about points no.2 and 3?

2. Valve cover gasket (L/R): LEAKING
3. Cylinder head gasket: LEAKING


Again thank you so much!

Any other contribution will be appreciated! :D
 

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Outstanding Contributor Always Remembered RI
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52,804 Posts
Thank you so much, Noodles! I really appreciate your quick response. So then, the first thing I should do is ask about points no.2 and 3?

2. Valve cover gasket (L/R): LEAKING
3. Cylinder head gasket: LEAKING


Again thank you so much!

Any other contribution will be appreciated! :D
Which head gasket is leaking and where from? You have two cylinder heads.
 

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They are going to have to pull the valve cover off to replace the head gasket so whichever side the head gasket is on should get a new valve cover gasket as well. If the leaking valve cover gasket is on the same side as the bad head gasket then both repairs will be done by doing the head gasket. If the problems are on different sides of the engine then they would replace the valve cover gaskets on both sides, but I would really go for the head gasket first regardless of side. The issue there is that when a head gasket goes it could cause other issues due to fluids mixing that should not. You won't know until the tear down the side with the bad head gasket.
 

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Wow, that is one of the biggest lists I have seen posted.

Go with the drive line stuff first. If major parts fail there then the repairs go off the charts.

What really scares me is the head gasket. Not a common problem on these trucks and may reveal more problems once it is taken apart to replace. It is the most expensive item on the list to have repaired, but without a reliable engine there is no point in repairing anything else.
It may be more common then you think. My head gasket needed replaced at 90k miles. Once these things hit 100k they are a maintenance nightmare. You either have to be ready to spend as much money as the car is worth in repairs at the dealership, or have a lot of time and tools handy to DIY.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Ok guys, i just came from the dealer with the official budget. I also have to say that they are giving me 40% off in Labour and 20% in Spare parts, so in the PDF you can see both prices (with and without discount in local currency here in Dubai (Dirhams) and in Dollars), the numbers on the left i think is the error code, right? so any help in all this thing will give more than appreciate.

I will also want tou ask you guys if you'd fix your car in the dealer or in a local mechanic (it depends, of course)

thank you very much!!!
 

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Outstanding Contributor Always Remembered RI
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Ok guys, i just came from the dealer with the official budget. I also have to say that they are giving me 40% off in Labour and 20% in Spare parts, so in the PDF you can see both prices (with and without discount in local currency here in Dubai (Dirhams) and in Dollars), the numbers on the left i think is the error code, right? so any help in all this thing will give more than appreciate.

I will also want tou ask you guys if you'd fix your car in the dealer or in a local mechanic (it depends, of course)

thank you very much!!!
Not sure what the item numbers are but they are not fault codes. Given the country you are in I would stick with the dealer and the price after discount seems reasonable.
 

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I have to agree that the price of $3800 USD for all of that work is an extremely good price with the discount. I would not think about taking it to an independent shop if the price is that good at the dealer.
 

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I recall the dealer telling me my valve cover gasket was leaking. I opened the hood and tighten the side it was leaking on. Are you loosing oil between oil changes?
 

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24. Rack & Pinion LEAKING

Sterring Rack Boot Kit: part# 163 460 01 96
ZF (OEM): $34,99
[/B]
If rack&pinion is leaking power steering fluid, replacing the boot will not stop the leak. It leaks from the internal o-ring, while the boot kit is only for protection from corrosion, rain and dust.
 

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hey guys,
i'm going to revive an old post. my car is losing oil between oil changes, approx. 1L at least. the weird thing is there is no smoke, leakage, or overheat. i did notice that there is oil stains around the engine's head cover but i'm not sure if its a valve cover gasket or a cylinder gasket. some people attributed the oil loss to the engine's age (over 10 years) but i'm not confident its correct.

please help. :(
 

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If your changing your oil between 10&15000 I would say that's perfectly normal. It can also depend on what grade oil you use as well. How you drive, short trips , long trips there is a lot that can contribute to oil lose.


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If your changing your oil between 10&15000 I would say that's perfectly normal. It can also depend on what grade oil you use as well. How you drive, short trips , long trips there is a lot that can contribute to oil lose.


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hay mat, i've tried multiple brands with multiple grades (10w30, 20w50, 10w40), but last time i did an oil change i used LiquiMolly 10w40 which is the same brand and grade that is used at the dealership here; however, i had to change it before it hit the 10,000km mark (less than 1000km before), when i checked the oil there was around 1/3 of it left, also, at the same time the oil warning light came on a few times. mind you, where i live the weather is a little hot these days and the surface is mostly flat.

at this point i don't know what to think to be honest. i'm really getting frustrated with all the problems i'm getting with my ML :(
 

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my car is losing oil between oil changes, approx. 1L at least. the weird thing is there is no smoke, leakage, or overheat. i did notice that there is oil stains around the engine's head cover but i'm not sure if its a valve cover gasket or a cylinder gasket. some people attributed the oil loss to the engine's age (over 10 years) but i'm not confident its correct.
You probably have a leak at a gasket or seal. Have you ever had the oil cooler seals replaced? This is a common issue that leaks oil down the front of your engine.

My engine is 13 years old, but doesn't burn or lose a drop of oil between changes (15,000+ km). I wouldn't consider it normal.
 

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You probably have a leak at a gasket or seal. Have you ever had the oil cooler seals replaced? This is a common issue that leaks oil down the front of your engine.

My engine is 13 years old, but doesn't burn or lose a drop of oil between changes (15,000+ km). I wouldn't consider it normal.
hay DrX, and thanks for your input. i have never changed the oil cooler seal, frankly i don't know where it is situated, lol. can you provide a picture if where i should be looking?

however, i did notice oil on the side of the engine, to specific, the left hand side (driver side). not sure if thats what you mean.
 

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If there was a 1/3 left that would suggest you've used about 5 or 6 litres of oil. That's a bit of a concern. Start looking for oil leaks.
I use a penrite full synthetic. 0W/50.
Not sure if you have penrite oil in the US.


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If there was a 1/3 left that would suggest you've used about 5 or 6 litres of oil. That's a bit of a concern. Start looking for oil leaks.
I use a penrite full synthetic. 0W/50.
Not sure if you have penrite oil in the US.


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hay matt, if its correct then its a big concern. i would hate to do an engine rebuild. unfortunately i live in Saudi Arabia and not the US, lol, so to my knowledge we don't have Penrite motor oils. i used Mobil1 0w40 but that didn't last long as the oil was consumed after less than a month.

i'll try to clean the engine either using a cloth or high pressure water and try to determine the leakage source. but like i stated earlier, there are no drips under the car or smoke or even a rise in the cars temp.
 
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