[koensayr]

Finally got the last damaged puck off by breaking off parts of it with a woodworking chisel. Got 4 new pucks on there now. I started taking the shift lever off inside to look at the P1856 issue, but it looks like removing the shift lever assembly will require removing some connections from underneath the car. So I thought I would get the car up on jack stands since I'll need to remove the transmission pan to get at the conductor plate for the 0705 code.

I could not find the "puck" for the central front lift location. The closest thing I could see is this

But this is recessed from the body belly covers, and it doesn't look very thick. If I draw a line running between the two front wheels, I don't see anything that protrude out.


If that central lift puck is missing, would I be able to jack up the front one wheel at a time using this metal piece? One side of the car is right up against a wall and I don't think I have enough clearance to use the factory jack from the side.

 

[Tom Manning]

This is the jack point, yes. You're just missing the cover. You can safely put the jack on it though: it's the subframe and is designed to take the jack, unlike the lower control arm. Safety first! Put a block of wood between the jack and the jack point if you want, which you'll have to do do anyway to get the car up high enough to get the axle stands in on the side pucks.

By far the easiest way to remove the shifter is to cut the cross brace on the console, shown here behind the shifter. This will allow you to angle it up and slip off the clip holding it to the selector rod.

You can glue it up later, but the console is way strong enough without it. Removing the selector rod from underneath is a real chore, but the only way out if you don't want to cut the console.

 

[koensayr]

This is the jack point, yes. You're just missing the cover. You can safely put the jack on it though: it's the subframe and is designed to take the jack, unlike the lower control arm. Safety first! Put a block of wood between the jack and the jack point if you want, which you'll have to do do anyway to get the car up high enough to get the axle stands in on the side pucks.

I'll have to cut a very small block of wood, as that exposed subframe is recessed from the pieces surrounding it. But cutting it too small might make it roll over on the cup of the jack.

 

[Tom Manning]

You can rest the jack on the steel underbelly pan safely, just centre it on the torx bolt. It's quite strong enough and won't slip. I've been lifting it this way for years until I realised my puck was missing! In any case, your limbs are nowhere near under the car until you get your axle stands in, are they? The jack is only to raise the car until you can support it. But it won't slip, if it's centred.

 

[Billtim]

I'll have to cut a very small block of wood, as that exposed subframe is recessed from the pieces surrounding it. But cutting it too small might make it roll over on the cup of the jack.

You might be better off just ordering the center cover(puck) from one of the online parts houses and have it express mailed to you if you are in a hurry to keep working. It is easy to install once you see how it works. I agree with putting a wood block between the jack and the center puck. The problem I had as a first time user is that the center puck is small and I had to work the jack around several times until I was satisfied that I had it centered. Then I decided my jack was too small to get the car high enough to use the jackstands. Make sure your jack has enough lift. I didn't feel comfortable working around the car with only the jack so that's why I used those bolts in addition to the jack. I'm going to have to get a bigger jack so I can lift the car high enough to use the jackstands.

 

[Tom Manning]

Another reason to jack the car up from the front is, if you're working on the ABC or valve block, to release the pressure from both the struts before you disconnect any lines. With the struts fully extended the system will depressurise.

 

[Billtim]

You might be better off just ordering the center cover(puck) from one of the online parts houses and have it express mailed to you if you are in a hurry to keep working. It is easy to install once you see how it works. I agree with putting a wood block between the jack and the center puck. The problem I had as a first time user is that the center puck is small and I had to work the jack around several times until I was satisfied that I had it centered. Then I decided my jack was too small to get the car high enough to use the jackstands. Make sure your jack has enough lift. I didn't feel comfortable working around the car with only the jack so that's why I used those bolts in addition to the jack. I'm going to have to get a bigger jack so I can lift the car high enough to use the jackstands.

The actual center puck is called a Take-Up Device in Mercedes speak. The part number is 203-628-01-04. I paid 23$ total for mine. You will see them advertised for $7 but then with handling and freight the delivered price will be in the low $20 range. I just cut off 4' from a 2x4 and used that on top of the lift.

 

[Frederick NL]

While you're at it you might want to put some grease between those cross members, as MB suggests. One day they may start to 'cloinck' when you're reversing and making a sharp turn.

 

[tallguy2020]

Finally got the last damaged puck off by breaking off parts of it with a woodworking chisel. Got 4 new pucks on there now. I started taking the shift lever off inside to look at the P1856 issue, but it looks like removing the shift lever assembly will require removing some connections from underneath the car. So I thought I would get the car up on jack stands since I'll need to remove the transmission pan to get at the conductor plate for the 0705 code.

I could not find the "puck" for the central front lift location. The closest thing I could see is this View attachment 2792653
But this is recessed from the body belly covers, and it doesn't look very thick. If I draw a line running between the two front wheels, I don't see anything that protrude out.


If that central lift puck is missing, would I be able to jack up the front one wheel at a time using this metal piece? One side of the car is right up against a wall and I don't think I have enough clearance to use the factory jack from the side.
View attachment 2792664

I had the same issue, replaced the center lifting pad...
Central lifting at the "integral carrier"
Ordered it at the dealer, cheap Benz part (but expensive for what it is...) shipping from Germany to Canada.. $C 26

 

[koensayr]

Car is up on 4 jack stands now. I'll need to get a replacement puck for the center front point.

The actual center puck is called a Take-Up Device in Mercedes speak. The part number is 203-628-01-04. I paid 23$ total for mine. You will see them advertised for $7 but then with handling and freight the delivered price will be in the low $20 range. I just cut off 4' from a 2x4 and used that on top of the lift.

I could not find the part using those key words and part numbers.

While you're at it you might want to put some grease between those cross members, as MB suggests. One day they may start to 'cloinck' when you're reversing and making a sharp turn.

Do you mean putting grease at where the two are connected by a torx bolt? Do you undo the bolt to put grease in there and then bolt back up?

I had the same issue, replaced the center lifting pad...
Central lifting at the "integral carrier"
Ordered it at the dealer, cheap Benz part (but expensive for what it is...) shipping from Germany to Canada.. $C 26

Thank you! The pictures are extremely useful. I searched using the part number in your picture and found this item just labeled "bracket". Does this look right?

230-628-01-49 - Bracket 2003-2012 Mercedes-Benz | Mercedes-Benz USA Parts

Order your OEM Bracket (2306280149) for your 2003-2012 Mercedes-Benz vehicle from the official Mercedes-Benz USA parts store - nationwide delivery!

mbparts.mbusa.com

 

[Billtim]

Car is up on 4 jack stands now. I'll need to get a replacement puck for the center front point.


I could not find the part using those key words and part numbers.


Do you mean putting grease at where the two are connected by a torx bolt? Do you undo the bolt to put grease in there and then bolt back up?


Thank you! The pictures are extremely useful. I searched using the part number in your picture and found this item just labeled "bracket". Does this look right?

230-628-01-49 - Bracket 2003-2012 Mercedes-Benz | Mercedes-Benz USA Parts

Order your OEM Bracket (2306280149) for your 2003-2012 Mercedes-Benz vehicle from the official Mercedes-Benz USA parts store - nationwide delivery!

mbparts.mbusa.com

Yes, that is the part # and the representation you will see for the part on the web. Sorry, I forgot the 9 at the end when I sent you the part number.
I didn't understand the reference to greasing the cross members either!
When you receive the "bracket" you will think they sent you the wrong part but note that there are two hooks on one end. Those hook onto the structural member toward the front and then you just push up and it snaps into place. At least that is the idea. That outside undercover on our cars interfered with my installation and I didn't get the tight installation I'm sure was intended.
Glad you were able to get the car up on the jacks somehow. I admire you for trying to fix the transmission. That is the one area that I decided was better left to the shop. The shop here charges $600 to change the transmission fluid including the fluid in the torque converter. I know the fluid has never been changed. My transmission runs nicely and I'd like to keep it that way. I don't see a lot of references to problems with either the 5 or 7-speed transmission. Good luck in fixing yours.

 

[Frederick NL]

Yes, I meant grease between the cross members (loosen up, grease and fasten). As the car flexes a little those members take the strain and may settle. This then causes a loud but innocent noise.

 

[tallguy2020]

Car is up on 4 jack stands now. I'll need to get a replacement puck for the center front point.


I could not find the part using those key words and part numbers.


Do you mean putting grease at where the two are connected by a torx bolt? Do you undo the bolt to put grease in there and then bolt back up?


Thank you! The pictures are extremely useful. I searched using the part number in your picture and found this item just labeled "bracket". Does this look right?

230-628-01-49 - Bracket 2003-2012 Mercedes-Benz | Mercedes-Benz USA Parts

Order your OEM Bracket (2306280149) for your 2003-2012 Mercedes-Benz vehicle from the official Mercedes-Benz USA parts store - nationwide delivery!

mbparts.mbusa.com

Correct: Bracket - Mercedes-Benz (230-628-01-49)

 

[koensayr]

By far the easiest way to remove the shifter is to cut the cross brace on the console, shown here behind the shifter. This will allow you to angle it up and slip off the clip holding it to the selector rod.

You can glue it up later, but the console is way strong enough without it. Removing the selector rod from underneath is a real chore, but the only way out if you don't want to cut the console.

Ok, I cut the plastic cross brace. However, I can only lift the shifter assembly a small amount. I can see the linkage, but it doesn't rise up out of the opening, and there certainly isn't enough space for me to figure out how to disconnect that linkage. And I can't imagine reconnecting that linkage from this limited space from inside the car.

When I took the above picture, that was as far as I could lift up the shifter assembly.

Any suggestions?

 

[koensayr]

Looks like there is a slow leak coming from the hydraulic connection that is just above where the coolant hose connects to the radiator on the front passenger side.

Does one of the engine mounts look like it collapsed?

 

[Tom Manning]

When I took the above picture, that was as far as I could lift up the shifter assembly

Pull it back a bit and up through the slot - there will be enough room to wiggle it up and disconnect the clip. You can pull the selector rod back enough so it's in the park position, allowing you to lift it up through the slot. Replace the clip with the new updated clip design.

Does one of the engine mounts look like it collapsed?

If they're not leaking dark brown fluid, they're probably OK. Do you notice a harsh vibration through the seats at idle?

 

[Dr. Plastic]

I am in the same process of getting my 2005 SL500 up to "almost" new condition!

 

[koensayr]

I am in the same process of getting my 2005 SL500 up to "almost" new condition!

Cool. Good luck to you as well. Feel free to exchange tips on the restoration!

 

[koensayr]

Ok, I finally got the shifter assembly out. Trying to remove the cover. It looks like the 3 plastic tabs can just be pryed up. However, there is what looks to be a rivet (circled in red). Does that have to be removed to get into the internals? If so, what's the best way to remove that rivet?

 

[tonylinc]

Here's what I am doing to my 2003 SL55:
Engine Oil & Filter Change...Done
Windows Tint... Done
Engine air filters, ordered one and got one, usually it's a pair, so ordered a second filter.
Trunk lid Struts
Trunk lid rear spoiler, carbon fiber, it's arrived, it's beautiful.
Cabin Air Filters, those have arrived.
Engine & trans Mounts, those have arrived.
Suspension Accumulators, ordered and on the way.
ABC Filter / Fluid, have those on hand already.
Supercharger Jet Oil, ordered 8-oz bottle and a syringe kit.
Antifreeze/Coolant Renew
Brake fluid renew
Transmission service
I wish it was springtime!