Mercedes-Benz Forum banner

Brakes, Brake Fluid, Coolant, Alignment - Pricing Questions

2989 Views 9 Replies 5 Participants Last post by  drivbiwire

Trying to gather some information prior to having work done and wondered if anyone would be willing to answer the following questions with respect to:

Brakes Front (pads & rotors)
Brakes Rear (pads & rotors)
Brake Fluid Flush (for a car with SBC)
Coolant Flush

1 - What was your cost?
2 - Where did you have the work done - dealership/independent?

I need new tires, too, but I'll be checking Costco or BJs since the dealership quoted me almost $1,000 for new tires (yikes!).


PS - Does anyone know if the rotors can be turned/machined? Or do they have to be replaced each time you replace pads? On my old Volvo, they would not turn the rotors ...
1 - 4 of 10 Posts
Coolant MUST NOT be flushed in these cars until 143,000 miles or 15 years. There is a very good reason and it involves more than just flushing the fluid. The fluid in your motor is stabilized, as long as you do not open the system or have a leak the fluid is not going to age. Also there is an additive pack in the reservoir that maintains the systems additives.

Bottom line, don't replace things that are not due. Over servicing your car is a quick way to do more harm than good.

Rotors cannot be turned. Rotors are made from a softer iron to provide better heat distribution and energy absorbtion. The rotors just like the pads are wear items and intended to remain on the car for one set of pads.

I second the Michelin recomendation, I won't run any other tire on my cars.

Coolant: It offers lubricity and anticorrosives as well as providing a the medium for moving heat out of the engine.

The rear end is often neglected for the most part.

The transmission fluid runs a close second.
No water pump in ANY German car relies on ANY lurbication characteristic of the G-05 or G-12 coolants.

Water pumps use grease lubricated roller bearings to support the shaft which are sealed into the housing.

The coolant seals use very modern "Mechanical" seals that are often silicon carbide and ceramic faced (extremely durable). As a rule of thumb, if they are not leaking or have no evidence of gassing LEAVE THEM ALONE! However once you have an indication of gassing or leaking, they will need to be watched for further degredation.

Automotive Mechanical Seal and spring assembly:

Coolants suffer no loss in ability to transfer heat over time. The additives in the coolant are there to simply neutralize the Ph and form a coating on all internal surfaces which acts to stop any further corrosion. As long as the coolants Ph is not changed (replacing the coolant) this formed coating will last nearly forever.

When the coolant is replaced at 143,000 miles or 15 years, the additive package in the coolant reservoir is replaced again to REFORM the original surface coating. After approx 5,000 miles or 1 month the Ph is neutralized and is again prepared to remain in the engine for another 143K or 15 years.

When the coolant is replaced, it is strongly advised to also repalce the water pump since the sealed bearings by this point will have wear and some play leading to leakage from the mechanical seals that seperate the coolant from the bearings.



See less See more
No water pump used in any German engine is lubricated by the coolant, haven't been for over 2 decades now.

The water pumps use a sealed bearing system and rely on a mechanical seal to prevent the coolant from getting to the bearings.

If anything coolant if allowed to contaminate the sealed bearings will DESTROY the water pump in short order.
Different, yes they are :)

They quickly shoot and bury the old wives tales when it comes to servicing.,
1 - 4 of 10 Posts
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.