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2006 E320 CDI
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Hello!

Trying to gather some information prior to having work done and wondered if anyone would be willing to answer the following questions with respect to:

Brakes Front (pads & rotors)
Brakes Rear (pads & rotors)
Brake Fluid Flush (for a car with SBC)
Coolant Flush
Alignment

1 - What was your cost?
2 - Where did you have the work done - dealership/independent?

I need new tires, too, but I'll be checking Costco or BJs since the dealership quoted me almost $1,000 for new tires (yikes!).

THX
John

PS - Does anyone know if the rotors can be turned/machined? Or do they have to be replaced each time you replace pads? On my old Volvo, they would not turn the rotors ...
 

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GL320 CDI - 2008, '04 Touareg V10 TDI, '85 Unimog U1700, '83 Mitsubishi 4WD turbodiesel PU
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RE: your tires

Check at Tirerack.com. If you buy from them, you will need to have a local shop mount/balance the new tires. Make prior arrangements and get quotes. Many shops will do it for a reasonable fee (think $10-$30 per wheel) but GET QUOTES!:D

RE: Coolant flush

Unless your maintainence manual specifically tells you to do this, a coolant flush is NOT recommended. The chemicals in the factory original coolant are PERMANENT.
 

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E500
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Hello!

Trying to gather some information prior to having work done and wondered if anyone would be willing to answer the following questions with respect to:

Brakes Front (pads & rotors) My rotors have 78000 miles still good on 3rd set of pads. I do the pads and sensors for about $100. When I let the dealer do the front pads it was $500 for just pads and sensors.

Brakes Rear (pads & rotors)

Rear about the same as the front but a little cheaper.

Brake Fluid Flush (for a car with SBC)

Brake fluid change, buy the pressure bleeder and only MB brake fluid Dot 4+

Coolant Flush Not before 100000 miles


Alignment

Warning. NOTE: The car properly aligned will drive straight with normal tire wear, don't buy they are set up to pull right for safety.

There are 2 ways to align. 1 for use on autoban very high speed, 2) US. 1 will cause inside tire wear due to preload on toe-in compensation for high speed driving. 2 will be a normal US driving speed for under 100 mph to improve tire wear. It will not be noticable on High Speed unless you sustain it for hours.



1 - What was your cost?

After learning from experience the warnings alignment was $350 + 3 sets of tires.

2 - Where did you have the work done - dealership/independent?

Both but I found a Firestone dealer who can set the car for US driving and the person doing the alignment has done the work showing me while doing the alignment.

I need new tires, too, but I'll be checking Costco or BJs since the dealership quoted me almost $1,000 for new tires (yikes!).

STAY WITH MICHELIN OR ELSE :crybaby2:

THX
John

PS - Does anyone know if the rotors can be turned/machined?

NO THEY SHOULD NOT BE TURNED BUT THEY NORMALLY LAST 100000 MILES.

Or do they have to be replaced each time you replace pads? On my old Volvo, they would not turn the rotors ...
See comments in Bold.
 

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2006 E320 CDI, 2009 ML320 Bluetec, 2009 GL320 Bluetec
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Coolant MUST NOT be flushed in these cars until 143,000 miles or 15 years. There is a very good reason and it involves more than just flushing the fluid. The fluid in your motor is stabilized, as long as you do not open the system or have a leak the fluid is not going to age. Also there is an additive pack in the reservoir that maintains the systems additives.

Bottom line, don't replace things that are not due. Over servicing your car is a quick way to do more harm than good.

Rotors cannot be turned. Rotors are made from a softer iron to provide better heat distribution and energy absorbtion. The rotors just like the pads are wear items and intended to remain on the car for one set of pads.

I second the Michelin recomendation, I won't run any other tire on my cars.

DB
 

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I have encountered far more underservicing by a factor of 20 to 1 than over servicing. If you purchase an older mercedes than I highly recommend you conduct a thorough check and find out what you may need to change as far as fluids.
Coolant: It offers lubricity and anticorrosives as well as providing a the medium for moving heat out of the engine.

The rear end is often neglected for the most part.

The transmission fluid runs a close second.
 

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2006 E320 CDI, 2009 ML320 Bluetec, 2009 GL320 Bluetec
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Coolant: It offers lubricity and anticorrosives as well as providing a the medium for moving heat out of the engine.

The rear end is often neglected for the most part.

The transmission fluid runs a close second.
No water pump in ANY German car relies on ANY lurbication characteristic of the G-05 or G-12 coolants.

Water pumps use grease lubricated roller bearings to support the shaft which are sealed into the housing.

The coolant seals use very modern "Mechanical" seals that are often silicon carbide and ceramic faced (extremely durable). As a rule of thumb, if they are not leaking or have no evidence of gassing LEAVE THEM ALONE! However once you have an indication of gassing or leaking, they will need to be watched for further degredation.

Automotive Mechanical Seal and spring assembly:


Coolants suffer no loss in ability to transfer heat over time. The additives in the coolant are there to simply neutralize the Ph and form a coating on all internal surfaces which acts to stop any further corrosion. As long as the coolants Ph is not changed (replacing the coolant) this formed coating will last nearly forever.

When the coolant is replaced at 143,000 miles or 15 years, the additive package in the coolant reservoir is replaced again to REFORM the original surface coating. After approx 5,000 miles or 1 month the Ph is neutralized and is again prepared to remain in the engine for another 143K or 15 years.

When the coolant is replaced, it is strongly advised to also repalce the water pump since the sealed bearings by this point will have wear and some play leading to leakage from the mechanical seals that seperate the coolant from the bearings.

DB
 

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I agree with the PH but what about the lubricity that the coolant provides. I understand the water pump needs it. Its a harder to accept that the lubricity can stand the test of time "15 years"
You seem to understand Mercedes pretty well. I have been involved in the automotive trade for over 25 years. I have seen "other cars come in destroyed" Because of coolant.
If mercedes makes a good coolant you are making a trusted fan out of me.
 

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No water pump used in any German engine is lubricated by the coolant, haven't been for over 2 decades now.

The water pumps use a sealed bearing system and rely on a mechanical seal to prevent the coolant from getting to the bearings.

If anything coolant if allowed to contaminate the sealed bearings will DESTROY the water pump in short order.
 

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Different, yes they are :)

They quickly shoot and bury the old wives tales when it comes to servicing.,
 
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