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2004 CLK 320 Elegance Cabriolet
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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
At my last service, MB dealer informed me that I will need to replace my front rotors and pads in 10,000kilometres. I have since slightly exceeded this. A friend asked me if my sensor lights came on?? I did not even know I had them.
Should I wait for these brake wear sensors to come on or should I just get them done because I've been told by the dealer? The car is stopping well. I'm not hearing any grinding other than a light sqeak that has been there for quite a while.

I've also shopped around at brake specialists and the difference in price is incredible....mind you, I'm not getting genuine MB parts. Think I was quoted $410 (AUD)( supplied and installed) for Permatex rotors and ABS (a specialist brake company in Australia) home brand pads. MB quoted me almost double the price (supplied and installed)

Curious to hear the thoughts of other forum members.

Cheers
 

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Your car has 8 brake pads, but likely only 2 with sensors. So hopefully, they wear evenly and the pads without sensors aren't any thinner than the ones with them. I really can't attest to AU prices, but in the us $410 for pads and rotors installed would be great. That's about what I'd expect to pay just for parts and DIY.

I replaced my pads (rotors still in spec) with Akebono brand (US$200) They are great for no dust, but they have a much softer pedal feel than OEMs and they squeal when I back-up. I would not recommend them. I'll probably keep them for this round, but I won't buy them again.

I put "Chinese crap" on the C240 - Centric D+S rotors and Posi-Quiet ceramic pads. All four wheels cost me just over US$300 in parts via eBay. I've had them on there for about two years now and am happy with them. The slots make them noisy on hard stops, but they stop well with no dust.
 

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2004 CLK 240 Coupe
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Should I wait for these brake wear sensors to come on or should I just get them done because I've been told by the dealer? The car is stopping well. I'm not hearing any grinding other than a light sqeak that has been there for quite a while.
I'm sure that you are capable of jacking the car and removing each road wheel in turn. You will then be able to see how much meat there is on each brake pad. My car has put about 40k miles on the pads since factory-fitted in 2004 and there is about 50% left. I will wait for the pad wear alarm to show at the cluster before I change them, as there is plenty of tolerance for safety there.

The WIS has a drawing showing the location of brake pad wear sensors on various models - including your W209 CLK. They are located in position 4 at the front and 10 at the rear.
 

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2004 CLK320
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I suggest you wait for signs, like brake warning light or even grinding noise.

Since you are changing the rotors as well, you don't care if you damage them.
 

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CLK 270 CDI W209
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im now doing mine this weekend, i picked up some bosch front discs and pads with a delphi sensor for £99.95 free delivery on ebay.....
 

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When buying sensors, make sure you get the rights ones. The older style used a single wire, that simply detected when the circuit ran to ground against the rotor. The newer style is a loop, with two wires at the connection. It still detects a grounded circuit, but also a short circuit. Once the wire loop breaks, you must replace the sensor, you can;t just reuse it like you could the old one-wire style.
 

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2004 CLK 320 Elegance Cabriolet
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Discussion Starter #7
Brakes

Thanks to all for their advice. Brakes have been done. Mechanic said the discs and pads were worn to below legal thickness. Strange the sensors did not not indicate.

Installed Bendix. No more squealing and feels great.
 

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CLK 270 CDI W209
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done my front discs and pads today too.......bosch all bish bosch :)

bit concerned that the discs had no bolt holding them on i know the wheels hold it all together on the hub but hey theres a bolt there for a reason i guess :0

rear ones to go next weekend
 

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2004 CLK 240 Coupe
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bit concerned that the discs had no bolt holding them on i know the wheels hold it all together on the hub but hey theres a bolt there for a reason i guess
Not sure what you are saying here.. According to my WIS, there should be a security/locking bolt that is tightened to 10 Nm holding the disc in place.
 

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CLK 270 CDI W209
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sorry mate, yes thats what i meant no security bolts on the front discs at all.....fortunately the bosch kit i bought came with them
 

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2004 CLK 240 Coupe
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OK - So the discs have been changed before, and the security bolt not fitted. I cannot believe that your car left the factory in that condition.

Out of interest, how many miles are there now on your car, for it to need the third set of discs & pads?
 

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Sounds like someone had previously replaced the rotors with non-OEM parts that didn't have the retainer bolt.
 

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Hi Keyhole, I waited for my break pad wear sensors to light up on the dashboard of my w209 but they didn't and I have been advised by more than one mechanic that my pad are very thin.
They also mentioned that my rotors have been worn to an extent that they couldn't be skimmed.
The break pedal travels a long distance and is relatively light, the oil in the reservoir is a little below maximum level (mechanic said it will go back to normal when u change pads).

The car is breaking ok with no squealing (except in very low speeds or traffic).

The question is, shall I wait for the sensors to show message on the dashboard or shall I change the pads + rotors now?

if yes, shall i used geniune MB parts or there are other good brands in the market (was thinking of putting drilled slotted rotors)
 

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2004 CLK320
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It is also possible that the pad sensor is not working.
If you feel any deterioration in braking power, change the brakes. Safety to you and your family is important.nnn
 

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Yep, if the pads and rotors are so worn that the fluid is below the minimum level it's definitely time for new brakes!
 

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Unplug the sensor and see if you get a brake lining message when driving around. if so, the sensor is working.
 

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I finally got fed up with the Akebono pads. They squealed in reverse, and just didn't stop well. Actually, I had a few bad stops that scared me so, off they went! I ordered Porterfields from Jerry at ForMyMercedes. Even at nearly 50K miles, my rotors are still just in spec for thickness, so I kept them. I used Jerry's included GWR Silencer kit and followed the instructions. It was most everything I'd normally do, but new to me was the rotor soap for washing the freshly sanded rotors and the "silencer" spray on the rotor surface. I was impressed with the lubricants included for the pad and caliper slide surface as well as the hub-to-rotor and rotor-to-wheel surfaces.



It took me just over three hours to do the whole job (getting slow in my old age, I guess!) I did the high-speed break-in: heat the pads up with a dozen gentle 20-5mph stops, then I did a dozen 60-10mph hard stops, never coming to a full stop. Later this evening, I went out to dinner and did some driving in traffic...WOW! What a difference! Keep in mind, it will still take several hundred miles for a full break-in, but the Porterfields are already giving me a much better feel than the Akebonos. The pedal is form, with good initial grip and solid stops. I think I'm going to like them!
 
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