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Discussion Starter #1
Hey everyone, I'm a newbie here, so I apologize in advance if this has been answered already. I replaced the front pads on my 1994 E320 today, it had a dead battery from sitting for a month (rode the motorcycle this month) and when I was finished, I put the car in neutral, pushed it back about 10 feet so my charger could reach the battery, put it in park and hooked up the charger. Several hours later, the battery is full, but it won't turn over. Dash lights up full, but now the car won't shift out of Park, and I have no brake lights, so I assume there's an issue with the switch. My question is, where is the switch, and is it a coincidence that the switch is suddenly bad or did I possibly do something in error during the brake job? Thanks for any advice.

-KRYSTOF
 

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Not sure buddy what switch are you refering to ?

But maybe try resetting alarm/immobolizer by removing that fuse from block for 30 seconds ?
 

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Krystof

Welcome to the forum and thanks for posting your question. Seems it isn't a brake question as the title suggest. When you moved the car to hook your charger up, did you engage the parking brake before putting the car in park? Is the car on an incline or flat surface?

It is suggested in the owners manual to always engage the parking brake before putting the car in park. This prevents the park postion fork from ever having a "bind" on it. If need be, get some help pushing the car forward and see if you can get the car out of park, then set the parking brake firmly. Try placing the gear selector in neutral and see if the car will start. If it does and will not start with the selector in park, then you most likely have a failing neutral safety switch (NSS).

Lastly, be a player on the forum and take a few minutes to complete your profile. It never hurts to know your location, miles on the car etc.

Good Luck,

Jayare
 

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Sure does sound like a brake light switch, but I would check the battery connections first. They should be removed, cleaned, and tightened. Once the battery connections are ruled out, the switch would be pretty easy to prove. If you don't want to go through a continuity test, just remove the connector and short the two terminals on the harness with a paper clip or suitable link. This would simulate the switch working and should enable you to move the shifter and the brake lights should be on.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Update: Battery is only at the half way point, I misread the meter last nite on the charger because it was dark out, I disconnected it before I went to bed and now I'm recharging it. I was able to get it to shift out of park when I held the key in the start position with my left hand and played with the shifter with my right. Now it doesn't stick. Odd thing though, the brake lights only come on when the key is engaged, and not without the key. Also, I put the e-brake on and put it in neutral to try, but no luck. I can't remove the key if it's in neutral, only park. Not sure if thats normal on a Benz or not as this is my first one. Hopefully a full battery will do the trick or else I'll try the other solutions. Thanks guys.


Krystof

Welcome to the forum and thanks for posting your question. Seems it isn't a brake question as the title suggest. When you moved the car to hook your charger up, did you engage the parking brake before putting the car in park? Is the car on an incline or flat surface?

It is suggested in the owners manual to always engage the parking brake before putting the car in park. This prevents the park postion fork from ever having a "bind" on it. If need be, get some help pushing the car forward and see if you can get the car out of park, then set the parking brake firmly. Try placing the gear selector in neutral and see if the car will start. If it does and will not start with the selector in park, then you most likely have a failing neutral safety switch (NSS).

Lastly, be a player on the forum and take a few minutes to complete your profile. It never hurts to know your location, miles on the car etc.

Good Luck,

Jayare
 

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What you describe is normal. Brake lights on a Mercedes work only with the ignition on.

To move the shifter you also need to have the key in the ignition and turned. The key can only be removed with the shifter in P.

That is all normal.

Recharge the battery and try to start the car again. It can only be started with shifter in P or N. Before cranking make sure that the battery terminals are clean and properly tightened. That is very important!

Good luck!
 

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What you describe is normal. Brake lights on a Mercedes work only with the ignition on.

To move the shifter you also need to have the key in the ignition and turned. The key can only be removed with the shifter in P.

That is all normal.

Recharge the battery and try to start the car again. It can only be started with shifter in P or N. Before cranking make sure that the battery terminals are clean and properly tightened. That is very important!

Good luck!
What he said ^

Plus; starting in '89, you have to put your foot on the brake with the key in the "engine running" position in order to release the interlock that allows the shifter to come out of "Park".
 

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^ +1 except I think the starting year is 1990.

And I'm pretty sure that the brake/shift interlock on these cars is *not* electrically actuated. IOW the brake light switch has nothing to do with whatever shift-out-of-park issues *do* exist.
 

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^ +1 except I think the starting year is 1990.

And I'm pretty sure that the brake/shift interlock on these cars is *not* electrically actuated. IOW the brake light switch has nothing to do with whatever shift-out-of-park issues *do* exist.
Aug, my '88 doesn't have the interlock but the wife's '89 does. Not sure if it was late '88 or '89 when it was cut in on the 3.0 sedan.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Well, the battery is fully charged this time, but still nothing. You can hear a slight buzz noise under the hood for a few seconds when the key is turned, but nothing. No clicking or anything, dashlights are all on and bright. Tried it in neutral, park, tried pushing it up a few feet and trying it again, foot on the brake, etc.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Where exactly is the immobolizer? Sorry, I'm not the most mechanical, but this makes sense. At one point, the alarm went off when I went into the car while the battery was charging. I put my key in the door and turned it to shut it off and thought nothing of it.

Not sure buddy what switch are you refering to ?

But maybe try resetting alarm/immobolizer by removing that fuse from block for 30 seconds ?
 

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Where exactly is the immobolizer? Sorry, I'm not the most mechanical, but this makes sense. At one point, the alarm went off when I went into the car while the battery was charging. I put my key in the door and turned it to shut it off and thought nothing of it.
I can't help you on that having a different vehicle. The reason I suggested it is that you have an alarm and I just cannot imagine it just going BEEEP when someone breaks in then allows them to drive away. Your problem sounds like the engine is being immobolised as it exhibits the same traits as mine (without the beep) if I take too long to try to start it. I have a 3rd party immobiliser fitted that has a 30 second cut out. If you don't start within 30 seconds you have to reset it with the button otherwise you get all dash lights etc but when you go to crank it nothing happens.

So my question to you is - just what sort of alarm is in it ? Standard MB ?
Do you have operating manual for it ?


Also have a read of this old post - sounds like same problem and there is couple solutions in there for you to try

http://www.benzworld.org/forums/w124-e-ce-d-td-class/1576774-1994-e320-no-starter-signal.html
 

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Discussion Starter #15
I believe it's the standard alarm that came with it. Thanks for your help, gonna check those out now.

I can't help you on that having a different vehicle. The reason I suggested it is that you have an alarm and I just cannot imagine it just going BEEEP when someone breaks in then allows them to drive away. Your problem sounds like the engine is being immobolised as it exhibits the same traits as mine (without the beep) if I take too long to try to start it. I have a 3rd party immobiliser fitted that has a 30 second cut out. If you don't start within 30 seconds you have to reset it with the button otherwise you get all dash lights etc but when you go to crank it nothing happens.

So my question to you is - just what sort of alarm is in it ? Standard MB ?
Do you have operating manual for it ?


Also have a read of this old post - sounds like same problem and there is couple solutions in there for you to try

http://www.benzworld.org/forums/w124-e-ce-d-td-class/1576774-1994-e320-no-starter-signal.html
 

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Does the little red check engine light come on right when you turn the key to run?
 

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Discussion Starter #17
So I just checked the fuses in the fusebox, and sure enough, The "C" fuse was blown (which covers rear roof light, trunk light, rear door locking system, safety belt handover arm, seat back arrester, central locking system, door lights, reading lamps, aut.antenna) and when I put a spare in, it blew instantly (slightly burned my thumb in the process, heh) so now I have to figure out what's causing that to blow. Thanks man.
 

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So I just checked the fuses in the fusebox, and sure enough, The "C" fuse was blown (which covers rear roof light, trunk light, rear door locking system, safety belt handover arm, seat back arrester, central locking system, door lights, reading lamps, aut.antenna) and when I put a spare in, it blew instantly (slightly burned my thumb in the process, heh) so now I have to figure out what's causing that to blow. Thanks man.
Is the antenna stuck?
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Antenna is stuck, and the check engine light has been on for a little while, I assumed it was a smog issue as the car ran perfect before all of this.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
i just read on another forum, someone had the same exact issue as mine, same car too; they removed the rear seat and unplugged a vacuum motor and that solved it. I'm not sure what a vacuum motor even is, never mind how to unplug it.
 
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