[JeffreyP]

Hi all

My car has brake pad worn warning just the past couple of days. I called two service places and both mentioned that I'll need replace pads and rotors as the MB rotors are too thin to turn. $400 for front - $800 for both front and rear. Any comment on that? Do I really need to replace rotors?

- Seem like an easy job, it's just that I don't have the time or equipment, so:

- How do you determined which pad is bad (cann't be all four?)
- If rotor is soft enough, can I just not turn and reuse them? Will it squeak and shorten the life of new pads?

Thanks in advance

 

[loubapache]

- How do you determined which pad is bad (cann't be all four?)
- If rotor is soft enough, can I just not turn and reuse them? Will it squeak and shorten the life of new pads?

If everything were perfect, then all four pads would wear evenly. In reality, they have uneven wear. I think the sensor is on the inner pads so one of the two is below minimum thickness. However, this should not matter because you will be replacing all four pads, not just one or two.

If the rotors are not warped or thinner than the minimum thickness (I think the front is 1 in.), then you can re-use them without any problem. You probably can roughly determine by using your fingers to feel if the edge of the rotor has a deep ridge.

When it warms up a bit more, I am going to do the front rotor/pads on my wagon. The rotors are warped.

 

[JeffreyP]

If everything were perfect, then all four pads would wear evenly. In reality, they have uneven wear. I think the sensor is on the inner pads so one of the two is below minimum thickness. However, this should not matter because you will be replacing all four pads, not just one or two.

Are you saying only the the front pads have sensor? Should I not worry about the rear?

 

[loubapache]

Are you saying only the the front pads have sensor? Should I not worry about the rear?

Your rear probably has only one sensor. This, however, depends on the models.

In my experience, the front wears much faster than rear. If your car has more than 100k miles and the rear pads are still original, then it might be the rear. The rear pads on both of my W210s are still original. For my W124s, I estimate that it takes about three pairs of front pads for one pair of rear pads. I replaced the rear pads on two of the W124s when they had over 100k miles.

The best thing to do is to pull the wheels and take a look at the pads to see how thin they are.

 

[Glide Ride]

I find it strange that two shops tell you that the rotors need to be replaced without a physical inspection. Maybe they were saying it was a possibility?

It is most likely your front brake pads as they wear out faster. You can only be sure by doing a physical inspection though.

Anyway, the rotors aren't that expensive. Check out autohausaz. ($65.53 each for the front and $42.74 each for the rear).

I would also suggest that you find a friend that is familiar with brakes and you DIY. Mercedes brakes are the easiest I have ever done. I've done them on an '86 300E and '95 S320, so I'm assuming the w210 is very similar. I'm sure there's a DIY for the brakes on Benzworld.

Good Luck,

Frank

 

[Glide Ride]

Sorry Lou, I was typing my reply so I didn't see yours. It looks like we are on the same page.

 

[iluvjesus]

There is a sticky on top of the forum showing you how to change pads and rotors

 

[loubapache]

Sorry Lou, I was typing my reply so I didn't see yours. It looks like we are on the same page.

Yes, we are.

The W210 front brakes are slightly different from the W124:

1) W210 uses hex (allen) bolts (7 mm?) for the guide pins. W124 uses regular (15 mm?) bolts.

2) The back of the W210 pads has two springs that go into the hole of the caliper piston. This is much better than the flat back in W124. So the only place to put brake paste is pretty much on the edges of the pads.

The rears are very similar, although the W210s have either 1 or 2 pins, depending on the suppliers. All my W124 had 2 pins.

 

[JeffreyP]

Thanks for the reply,

Yes, after giving the mileage ~94000 miles - with the front ones replaced at about ~45000 miles, both shops suspect that both front and back are about due.
The shop that did them back then was one of the shop I called, strange is that they didn't have problem turning the rotor.
It doesn't seem to be that expensive buying parts from Autohausaz, not sure how much dealer would charge yet. Although I've been trying to DIY, I am hesitating about the brake job - would it not work on the highway if I did it?
I guess I'll see how much more going to the mechanic tomorrow. Looks like I may have to spend ~2x66 + 2x43 +2x60 (pads) ~ say $350 in parts. Hopefully it won't be 800 total - maybe 550-600 would be O.K with me.

 

[loubapache]

There is a very good chance you do not need rear rotors but every situation is different.

 

[denperkins]

Brake pad warning

The writeup that I saw here is very good. A few things that I found when replacing my rears are that you need to look at the pad to see if it is one or two pin. Don't go by the serial number. Number two is on the rear's make sure you release the emergency brake before removing the rotor. The emergency brake expand on the internal side of the rotor. (don't ask how I know). Also since the rears are usually on for a long time they can fuse onto the backing plate. When reinstalling make sure you apply a slight amount of lubricant to between the rotor and the backing plate (end of axle) to try and alleviate any future problems. On my 01 E320 I had to use a puller to get both of the rotors off. Use caliper grease, no other when lubricating any parts on the brakes. Adjust the parking brakes while your there. I think that the foot pedal should go in about three clicks to set the emergency brakes.

 

[Check Codes]

Thanks for the reply,

Yes, after giving the mileage ~94000 miles - with the front ones replaced at about ~45000 miles, both shops suspect that both front and back are about due.
The shop that did them back then was one of the shop I called, strange is that they didn't have problem turning the rotor.
It doesn't seem to be that expensive buying parts from Autohausaz, not sure how much dealer would charge yet. Although I've been trying to DIY, I am hesitating about the brake job - would it not work on the highway if I did it?
I guess I'll see how much more going to the mechanic tomorrow. Looks like I may have to spend ~2x66 + 2x43 +2x60 (pads) ~ say $350 in parts. Hopefully it won't be 800 total - maybe 550-600 would be O.K with me.

Hi, Jeffrey. If that's the same shop, then they know. MB rotors are fairly soft and typically last about two sets of pads. Since they didn't change them last time, they know they are due with this change. And they are correct, MB does not specify turning rotors, but rather replacement (and they are cheap enough).

Back up a bit and think. If your pads have lasted that long, then with your driving style/circumstances I'd guess you have at least a month before you need to change them (you'll have to endure the warning in the meanwhile), maybe more since the rotors are likely done anyway.

So, instead of heading to the shop tomorrow, take 20 minutes out of your day and pull one wheel on each side. You'll easily be able to see which end is worn out. (FWIW the base E didn't come with a rear sensor after the facelift, yours may have it). Plus you'll be able to check and see if you have one or two pin calipers on the rear as Den notes.

Have you ever changed pads on any car? If so don't fear the 210 setup. It's really as easy as the DIY says, and the hardest part is getting the rotors off. I'd say find out which end of yours is causing the problem, then order the OEM parts online from autohausaz.com (pads, rotors, new lock screws (why not, they are cheap and pre-coated with loc-tite) and anti-squeal paste packs, plus sensors if it's the front or if you have them on the rear. Then plan to do the job. If you get into it and decide it's beyond you, put back what you took off and take it to the shop. At least you'll have saved the excess profit on the parts.

If you find it's not too bad, then when the other end wears out you'll feel much more comfortable changing them.

Take care and enjoy the ride,
Greg

 

[JeffreyP]

Hi Gregs210 and gents,

Thanks for your detailed reply though I didn't have a chance to read it prior to bringing my car to the shop. All pads seem to need replacement, I cann't comment on rotors but replaced them any way. Definitely something that I can do, pads and sensors were simple to remove and install - although getting the rotors out were the most difficult part as you said. The shop had to bang them with a hammer - yike!!! But nothing else was damaged.

The shop did honest work and charged me only $600 for all pads, sensors, rotors on all four wheels. It took them 2 man x 1.5 hours - so ~ 3 hours total. So with parts hovering around $400, they didn't make much.

Though a little (well a bit more than little) more than what I really want to pay for brake service, I am quite happy with the new brakes and rotors - most importantly peace of mind.

Regards,