Mercedes-Benz Forum banner

1 - 18 of 18 Posts

·
Registered
1960 Unimog 404
Joined
·
14 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Hi

One of my wheel cylinders leaked and soaked the brake linings in brake fluid.
Is there any way to clean the lining, or do I have to buy new ones?

Thanks
Tom
 

·
Registered
'01-E320 & 02-ST2
Joined
·
31,631 Posts
Are they riveted or bonded? If they are riveted, you could try one of the aerosol brake cleaners, but I wouldn't hold out much hope. If you can't get them clean enough they will grab and be noisy and may smoke some, too.

If they are bonded, don't even try; the lining may release completely, and that's a bad day all around.

BTW, you'll have to buy a full axle set, too, you can't just buy for one wheel, unfortunately.
 

·
Registered
Non MB 1975 Volvo C304, 1958 Kramer U540, 1959 unimog Westfalia 411
Joined
·
1,381 Posts
I saw on this forum someone had put there land rover pads or shoes in pan of water out doors and boiled the oil from them. Depending on there construction they may swell up to like new thickness!!
 

·
Registered
2007 SL550, 1996 E300 Diesel, 1959 220SE, 1965 Unimog 404.115-Sold
Joined
·
311 Posts
Actually you can by single shoes from Expedition Imports and they are fairly reasonable in price.
 

·
Registered
85' U1300L Holset Turbo VA A/C, 66' Propane 404.1 rock mog, 1975 416 Doka, G500, Volvo C303
Joined
·
5,037 Posts
Spray off with brake cleaner and reinstall! I do it all the time on 404 brakes with no I'll effects.
 

·
Registered
1960 Unimog 404
Joined
·
14 Posts
Discussion Starter #6
Thanks Guys

Brake fluid is hygroscopic, so water should 'suck out' at least some of the brake fluid if I submerge the shoes.
Then a good rub down with brake cleaner and they should be like new.
If it doesn't work, I can still buy new ones.

Thanks for your help

Tom
 

·
Registered
Unimog 1967 406 Conv agri, G 460 300GDSt 1988, ML500 2002 W163 (lpg)
Joined
·
75 Posts
I would just be giving a good wash in petrol or thinners. The brake fluid is basically veggie oil. Certainly when I used to test/build brakes for Lucas Girling we used to bath everything in IPA as a cleaning agent which I guess is what brake cleaning fluid is similar to. IPA to paint thinners is not that far a step..
 

·
Registered
85' U1300L Holset Turbo VA A/C, 66' Propane 404.1 rock mog, 1975 416 Doka, G500, Volvo C303
Joined
·
5,037 Posts
Thanks Guys

Brake fluid is hygroscopic, so water should 'suck out' at least some of the brake fluid if I submerge the shoes.
Then a good rub down with brake cleaner and they should be like new.
If it doesn't work, I can still buy new ones.

Thanks for your help

Tom
To much extra work, leave in position and spray with brake clean and enjoy. Then if you really want to, park in a creek for 20min while you have lunch on the trail.
 

·
Unimog Moderator
250GD Wolf
Joined
·
13,267 Posts
To much extra work, leave in position and spray with brake clean and enjoy. Then if you really want to, park in a creek for 20min while you have lunch on the trail.
+1, even better if you have some compressed air and an air gun and spray, soak, then blow off with the air gun, they will be like new.
 

·
Registered
Unimogs
Joined
·
874 Posts
One of the cantankerous old farts at B&A Friction Materials recommended that saturated shoes be cleaned with Brakleen and put in a low temp oven for 8-10 hours at 250 degrees. Apparently this will cook the fluid out of the shoe...? This was an unofficial off the record suggestion if someone couldn't afford the cost of a proper repair.

Then again 8-10 hours in the kitchen oven will probably cost about as much as a new lining.

Speaking of linings, we have recently been getting some reports that local brake shops are refusing to install the riveted linings. Specifically they want a manufacturers statement that the linings are NOT asbestos. I am quite confident that linings manufactured in the mid to late 1980's are going to be asbestos. That is why they work so well! Bottom line, if you are having them installed by a brake shop, ask them first to make sure there will not be any problems.

If you have been living under a rock for the last 20 years, yes Asbestos when airborne and breathed into the lungs is very bad. That means you need to take precautions especially when removing brake drums and dealing with the inevitable brake dust. Brakleen is your friend. Taking an air nozzle and blowing the dust off is not.....

Cheers,

Scott
 

·
Unimog Moderator
250GD Wolf
Joined
·
13,267 Posts
That's why you soak the area first, same precautions as any airborn dangerous material. I meant air hose off to dry, after watering down. After bleeding, I usually take the water hose, and wash off any brake fluid that got on any painted surfaces, inside the rim, calipers, just generally hose off the entire area. After cleaning everything with brake clean, hose it down with water, then, Air blower drys it all in a jiffy so you can get putting it back together.

I haven't dealt with drums since my '56 chev, doing brakes on that guy you could be sure they were asbestos, I would always put the hose on the back, flood the area before taking the drum off to keep any dust down. There are modern methods of disposing of the wet material, not sure I've ever seen a shop actually do it, but I've seen the "contain and dispose of" sheets on the bulletin boards :)

I know individuals at home are usually not subject to these requirements, Scott, what requirements do you have to follow in California in the business for disposing of the wet and dry contaminated materials? I imagine being in California, its a lot more strict? Are your air blow guns allowed to have pistol grips? :p Kidding of course.

Same with the interior, if I pulled an old car out of the bush, I would hose down the interior to meditate any airborn dust poo, and thus hopefully prevent hantavirus, deer mice are an issue up here.

Same precuations should be taken working with clutch's as well.

Fun fact, Asbestos is still mined in Quebec. They must still use it for something? :(
 

·
Registered
Unimogs
Joined
·
874 Posts
Here in CA they have found a way to regulate everything. We get the regular Hazmat inspections. In "The Binder" is all receipts for purchase and disposal of numerous items, as well as site map, evacuation plan, MSDS on every fluid in the shop, etc., etc.

We have to document:

Battery purchases and core pickups
Waste Oil
Used Oil Filters
Absorbant Recycling
Oily Rag Recycling (This is where the asbestos rags fall)
Etc., etc.


Did I mention it is not legal for me to buy NEW Fire Extinguishers every year...because those extinguishers might have been on the shelf for too long. No I need to pay a company to come in and "certify" every extinguisher, certification's cost more than new ones.

And people wonder why it is so expensive to operate a business in CA.

WY, MT, ID looking better and better each day...

Cheers,

Scott
 

·
Unimog Moderator
250GD Wolf
Joined
·
13,267 Posts
Wow. That's why I get a smile whenever I'm visiting my mechanic and someone is yelling at the service manager that they have to pay for "shop supplies" on the work order. Some people just don't see the extra things, like oil disposal, a tie strap or two, electrical tape etc, that have to get paid for in a shop. I'm sure they would still yell if the work order said "2 feet of electrical tape" instead of bunching it under the $3 shop supplies charge.

Guy I work with is from California. He imported his car when he moved, I couldn't believe all the extra stuff for emissions that are on it, vs a car sold here!

Goes the other way too, I was at Peavy Mart the other day, and noticed all the riding mowers out front have a big sticker on them "NOT FOR SALE IN CALIFORNIA", I assume, emissions as well?

But I digress. Back to brakes!

Tom, of course, when the jobs done, we'll want to see photo's of the truck, for proof. Well, ok, just because we like to see photo's of mogs.
 

·
Registered
1960 Unimog 404
Joined
·
14 Posts
Discussion Starter #14 (Edited)
Thanks for your reply's guys

Dust is not a problem on this job.
The whole drum and back plate are soaked in brake fluid.
After I hosed of the drum with water it started to rust.
Hope that is a good sign, or is the cast iron of the drum saturated with brake fluid now.
Also the shoes look very dry after a water bath and some brake cleaner.
Pics are coming up, but I have to get the Mog out of the shop and I still waiting
for the inner tubes from VON.
 

·
Registered
1960 Unimog 404
Joined
·
14 Posts
Discussion Starter #15 (Edited)
Here are the promised pictures.

Thanks for the tubes VON, they fit great.




 
1 - 18 of 18 Posts
Top