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Discussion Starter #1
I have a 2008 ml350 that needs front brakes. I saw on some posts where some people say to change out the rotors as well when ever changing the pads. Is this true?

Should I buy oem. Or is bendix just as good. For rotors and raybestos ceramic for the pads.

Thanks for the help.

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Discussion Starter #2
Stupid spell check got me on the header. Supposed to say brake not break

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As for the rotors being replaced, if there is any scoring on the face of either rotor, replace both of them.

If there is no scoring, measure the thickness of both rotors with a digital caliper and if the readings are close to the wear limit, replace them both.

As for the brake pads, there are many to choose from, but my choice is Akebono. You must use dealer purchased wear sensors, even if the sensors come with the pads you are using.

Post your full vin# and I will supply you with OE part numbers.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
As for the rotors being replaced, if there is any scoring on the face of either rotor, replace both of them.

If there is no scoring, measure the thickness of both rotors with a digital caliper and if the readings are close to the wear limit, replace them both.

As for the brake pads, there are many to choose from, but my choice is Akebono. You must use dealer purchased wear sensors, even if the sensors come with the pads you are using.

Post your full vin# and I will supply you with OE part numbers.
I have a 2008 ml350 that needs front brakes. I saw on some posts where some people say to change out the rotors as well when ever changing the pads. Is this true?

Should I buy oem. Or is bendix just as good. For rotors and raybestos ceramic for the pads.

Thanks for the help.

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk

Vin.
> 4JGBB86E48A364511

Thanks

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It is highly recommended that you do both because the way they designed the brake system the oem pads put a raised lip on the outer edge of the oem rotors. It has been suggested that you could grind off the the lip with a grinder. I chose to let the new pads and old rotors wear out this edge until there was a full face to face contact. I simply drove carefully in controlled environments until I had face to face.

I also used Akebono.

And the Akebono sensors are far looser than the oem. Buy OEM from your dealer.

BTW, are you sure you need brakes? the wear sensor wire are notorious for rubbing against the rubber boot and shorting out, causing the computer to THINK you need brakes when you don't.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
It is highly recommended that you do both because the way they designed the brake system the oem pads put a raised lip on the outer edge of the oem rotors. It has been suggested that you could grind off the the lip with a grinder. I chose to let the new pads and old rotors wear out this edge until there was a full face to face contact. I simply drove carefully in controlled environments until I had face to face.

I also used Akebono.

And the Akebono sensors are far looser than the oem. Buy OEM from your dealer.

BTW, are you sure you need brakes? the wear sensor wire are notorious for rubbing against the rubber boot and shorting out, causing the computer to THINK you need brakes when you don't.
Thank you for the reply. I have the front driver's pads severely worn. And that rim gets dirtier than the other 3 rims faster. We bought the Ml350 used a year ago. I'm sure they threw some cheap pads on it.

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I can only speak to the quality of the pads. They have been great so far, been very happy. As far as I know, they have a really good reputation, and the rotors are probably very good as well.

I am still on the old rotors, with new pads. I'm of the opinion that if you're not getting brake shudder, or any other brake noise or other issues, reuse the rotors. BUT, and I say this as delicately as possible, if the person driving it the most is heavy on the brake pedal, rides the brakes, or waits to the last second to brake hard, it might behoove you to just get new rotors. Hard or excessive braking will cause warping, especially on heavily worn rotors.

The only other factor to consider is your time and skill. Pads are relatively easy to replace. With time and rust, it can be more difficult to change the rotors.
 

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Thank you for the reply. I have the front driver's pads severely worn. And that rim gets dirtier than the other 3 rims faster. We bought the Ml350 used a year ago. I'm sure they threw some cheap pads on it.
When one side wears more than the other side, it is a clear indication that the caliper slide pin is dirty and not allowing the caliper to move back and forth.
 

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When one side wears more than the other side, it is a clear indication that the caliper slide pin is dirty and not allowing the caliper to move back and forth.
Thanks a lot. I did plan on cleaning them. But that great info to have.

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Does anyone know the bracket part number that the caliper bolts on too? The bracket between the hub and the caliper.

Left rear wheel.

When I did my brakes and was bolting on the caliper the threads within the bracket got chewed up. I forced the bolt back in. But I know I need next time a new bolt and bracket.

Thanks.
 
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