[32krazy!]

i just finished a complete brake overhaul. new akebono pads front and rear, rotors turned, new stainless lines front and rear and complete fluid flush. now for the bad news. after bleeding the lines for over an hour i cant get the pedal to stiffen. the bas /esp lite comes on then switch the key off and on it goes out. if the pedal is pumped the pedal increases stiffness. but release the pedal and apply again it goes rite to the floor! i tried pumping the pedal over 70 times to open the abs ports to no avail. i have bled over a pint of very expensive brake fluid and still no pedal.
anyone have any ideas as to what im doing wrong? i have done brakes on many american cars and swedish cars with no issue. i have never encountered so soft a pedal.

 

[32krazy!]

yep larry you got it! i started at pass. rear then driver rear pass. front then driver front with my buddy pumping the brake pedal. we counted over 150 pumps of the pedal with no increase in pedal pressure. first push it goes to the floor bas/esp lite comes on. shut car off light goes out. im at a loss

 

[32krazy!]

i dont see any bleeder on the m/c. any ideas?
this just keeps getting better! i drained the coolant ran distilled water for 20 min and drained it. refilled with 1.5 gal of m/b antifreeze and 1 .25 gal of water. now i dont have any heat!!!!! this sh*& was supposed to be easy! im getting really frustrated!

 

[32krazy!]

were do i find this power bleeder? is it connected to the resevoir or at the bleeders? the light resets but i am unable to keep a pedal
can this be done with the car up on jackstands? its almost impossible to reach the rear brakes with the wide rims (8.5 wide)

 

[32krazy!]

did all that larry. i have bled tons of brakes in my time but this baffles me. so im ordering motives power bleeder zill recommended and see if i pressurize the m./c i can push what air is in the lines out.
since i had the calipers off the car and the rubber lines replaced with stainless lines there must be air trapped in the calipers.

 

[32krazy!]

im thinking with the calipers completely compressed new lines and a flush i must still have air in the lines. unfortunately to remove the stainless lines i have to pull the wheels remove all the calipers and then the lines! before i do all that ill try a pressurized system first

 

[32krazy!]

it will prolly take about a week or so to get my power bleeder. ill post my results. any ideas as to why i have lost my heat? coolant flush went fairly smooth. watched temp come up to operating range then no heat!

 

[32krazy!]

thanx bruce. if i leave the cap off i have a diffucult time reaching 80 to 100 on the gage. with the cap in place i can reach operating temp. so far i have 1.5 gal of antifreeze and 1.25 gal of distilled water. i had heat when running pure water to flush. shut car off and drained hot. then refilled with mix and voila! no heat! ill start again sun

open road im sure karma is kickin my butt! when i left to recycle some old oil so i could drain the slk oil my trusty truck wont start!!! :shit not::bash: so in the span of about 4 hrs i went from 3 running cars to 1!

heres a bright update. oil change went without a hitch. drained from the bottom and let it sit overnite. refilled with mobil 1 and while warming up the motor the heat returns! coolant flush finished need 14 mm hex for the rear diff. and power bleeder. wish me luck!

 

[32krazy!]

karma is getting better. found the hex socket for the rear diff. in aset for under 15$. seems like the truck needs a starter so off to the parts store!

 

[32krazy!]

karma is even again! truck now starts, m/b only needs brake bleed and tranny flush and i only bled at the knuckles briefly!!

 

[32krazy!]

40,000 miles. pedal was ok before but had a pulse in the pedal. mostly due to rotor wear. after no pedal. convinced there is still air in the system, waiting on my power bleeder and we will see! it is my weekender car so it can sit without issues.
ill keep ya'll posted

 

[32krazy!]

dickb how do you open the valve? my power bleeder came in today so as soon as work and some sleep allows ill hook it up and report back

 

[32krazy!]

mine isnt like that. i have 3 different electrical connectors coming off the m/c itself. any one could be a valve. ill know tommorrow as im going to use the power bleeder and rebleed the entire system

 

[32krazy!]

wow! bazzle you are a genius! i never even thought of that. and no i didnt! bleeders are at the bottom. i guess i gotta switch them. i used my power bleeder yesterday and it seemed to work well but i still wasnt satisfied with the pedal. now i know why!:twak: i need to sleep a bit then ill start over!

 

[32krazy!]

well upon closer inspection the calipers appear to be on the reversed! i actually reversed the caliper carriers as well so it appeared to be on rite. another session with the power bleeder and i have brakes!!:thumbsup:
bazzle you are truley the master!:bowdown: thanx to all for the help. now rear diff flush and tranny flush and im done!

 

[32krazy!]

great idea bruce. i had printouts from slk32.com on the procedure with fotos i just never saw the bleeders in the wrong position. actually i swapped the caliper carriers also and didnt realize it. so when i bolted them up they went right in! if the carriers were reversed the calipers wont line up. also i had issues with the new lines going through the grommets in the swingarm. should have seen the signs!
but thanx to all the great help on here a minor issue was corrected and i have the satisfaction of knowing i saved tons of cash and now have a better working knowledge of my car.
im going to start a new post with the total cost for all my flushes with parts if anyone is interested

 

[32krazy!]

bladester i got them off ebay. buy it now was 68$ plus shipping. i offered 50$ and they accepted. 64$ with shipping from canada. dont let the lines fool you, they appear to have no way to swivel the fittings. you attach them first to the caliper then to the hard line. the hard line has the swivel. also you must route them through the rubber grommet on the a arm BEFORE installing on the cailper.