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2001 ml320 and 2006 ml350 (sold)
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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
i just bought Black Label European Bleeder 0109 -- Motive Products Online Store

I guess I will buy fluid from dealer ... They usually match price for me from mb of ft lauderdale which shows 000-989-08-07-01 for $11.70 liter. See pic...Do I really need to buy from them?

About how many liters do I need to flush all 4 wheels??? I think 2 liters, right?

I looked at diy and did not see much on this one...hasn't been changed in about 5 years and 60k miles so i figured may as well...
 

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2001 ML430 Sport bought in very nice shape despite 156K miles in August 2010
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5 years and 60K is enough to ensure that the fluid you flush out will be nasty stuff deserving of disposal.
A liter is enough. The Motive bleeder makes it an easy job.

- Ideally, get the car up on jack stands with all four wheels off
- use ONLY the right size metric flare wrench/s on the caliper bleed screws
- work around each caliper to be sure you can open each of the bleed screws. Its possible to find a seized bleed screw and the time to find and fix that is before you start the flush. Make sure they are all able to be opened, but leave them closed after you have done that.
- make up a 1 liter plastic container marked in 100ml increments. Tall and thin is the best shape, and you'll find one at the Giant if you don't have one. Drill a hole in the cap to accept clear vinyl tube the right size to fit snugly over the bleed screw nipple.
- Screw the Motive cap onto the reservoir and pump the system up to around 15psi
- Wait 20 minutes, then confirm that the Motive is holding 15psi. If it has dropped, find the leak. Much easier to find it now than to find it when its pi$$ing your nice new brake fluid on the floor :) Uncrew the Motive reservoir cap to release the pressure when you are done. Now you are ready to sail through the flush.
- Dump the entire liter of fresh fluid into the [surgically clean] bleeder container
- Work in this order: pass rear, driver rear, pass front, driver front. Bleed the inner bleed screw first then outer bleed screw on each caliper.
- Flush 125ml from the inner and 125 from the outer bleed screw of each rear caliper, for a total of 500ml. Don't over tighten the bleed screws. Firm but no more.
- Check the pressure on the Motive bleeder and pump it back up to 15psi.
- Flush about 100ml from the inner and 100ml from the outer bleed screw of each front caliper for a total of 400ml.
- Release the pressure on the Motive bleeder, remove the cap, and wipe up any excess fluid from around the cap area.
- You can put the remaining fluid back in the bottle for top-up use. Write the month and year on the bottle with a sharpie, and toss it after six months. You are better off cracking a new bottle than using old fluid thats had plenty of time to pick up moisture [the arch enemy of brake systems].

You'll do it in half the time next time, but its better to go slowly the first time. Be really careful with the bleed screws - treat 'em gently.
 

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Discussion Starter #3

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2001 ML430 Sport bought in very nice shape despite 156K miles in August 2010
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Your calipers may have a single bleed screw. My ML430 has Brembo calipers with two. If there is a single bleed screw, adjust the fluid quantity to flush 250ml from each rear caliper and 200ml from each front caliper.

There is very little fluid in the abs pump and its a complicated procedure to flush it. I typically dont do it unless the ABS circuit has been opened.

For the sake of $5 get the MB fluid.
 

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Current 2017 GLE350, 2007 S550, 2002 S430, 1998 ML320 Deceased 74 240D, 92 400E, 97 E420, 13 GLK350
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Good writeup above on brake bleeding. Got a motive bleeder this year, and it is a much better method than using a vacuum pump or 2 person pump and bleed.

Some other considerations when using the Motive Power Bleeder:
1) I use DOT 4 ATE Super Racing Blue alternating with Gold. The difference in color gives good confidence that everything is flushed out.
2) Using a turkey baster to siphon off from the reserviour minimizes mixing of old fluid with new. The reserviour has a filter screen you will need to remove for this part. (see photo). Replace the screen after siphoning.
3) If you pour the entire contents of the 1L bottle into the Power Bleeder, you can use the metal container to capture old fluid from each caliper.
4) The bleed screws are 10mm - a box end wrench will keep from rounding off the corners of the bleed screws.
5) A clear plastic tube from the bleed screw to the collection container will help you determine when the fluid runs clearn, and if any air bubbles are present. (Hold the collection container high to put a gooseneck in the clear tube to see the bubbles better with some backlighting)
6) The leak test on the Motive Bleeder revealed a small leak at the coupling of my inlet. A paper towel at the juction kept this from the floor of the garage and off the paint of the car.
7) I used a higher final pressure of 25 psid to pressurize the reserviour just prior to bleeding each wheel.
8) The Motive Bleeder has a fluid suction tube in the bottle. Know where this is at and tilt the Bleeder slightly in that direction to avoid having pressurized air get into the brake reserviour.
9) When you are done with the fluid flush, depressurize the Motive Bleeder by opening the pump neck of the Motive Bleeder. This should pull back some fluid from the reserviour to the Motive Bleeder as air that was trapped in the top of the reserviour expands.
10) Prior to removing the Motive Bleeder cap connection to the brake reserviour, check to see if the fluid level is back on scale. If not, to avoid spilling excess fluid, repressuerize the bleeder. Then, tilt the Motive Bleeder so that the pickup tube will draw in air, not fluid. Then open the bleed screw at the last wheel closest to the brake reserviour and monitor the level in the brake reserviour until it goes down to the max level.
 

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2000 ML320 / 1988 300SE / 1985 380SE / 1969 280SE
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Sorry to bring up this old thread

I have followed the above procedure using Motive Bleeder and flushed twice on each wheel with the total of 1.5 liters of DOT4.
I had never had any brake warning lights on before flushing.
Now I have BAS/ESP, ETS and Parking Brake Lights on as soon as I press the brake pedal.
I flushed again in case of air being sucked in but still have the same issue.
What could possibly have gone wrong here.
Mine is ML320 with single bleed screw.
 

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I flushed again in case of air being sucked in but still have the same issue.
Was air introduced into the system?

Is the brake pedal firm or spongy?

Try resetting the codes by turning the steering wheel lock to lock. That is, full stop left and then full stop right.
 

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The brake seems to be slightly spongy. I have tried to reset the codes but they still stay.
I replaced the front brake pads with the wear sensor in case of worn pads.
I think of two possible causes.
1. Wrong brake fluid used Synthetic VC Mineral because most European cars use the mineral types of BF
2. Brake Light Switch. But why the parking brake light is on. In the case of faulty brake light switch, the ABS warning light will be on.
 

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You are stating that the breaks are spongy, so you might have air in the system.
Did you unplug any electrical connection brakes related? If you have the "red" light will come on until you reset it. Are you sure your scanner is capable of resetting the MB brakes?
Have you checked the fluid level?
 

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The brake seems to be slightly spongy. I have tried to reset the codes but they still stay.
I replaced the front brake pads with the wear sensor in case of worn pads.
I think of two possible causes.
1. Wrong brake fluid used Synthetic VC Mineral because most European cars use the mineral types of BF
2. Brake Light Switch. But why the parking brake light is on. In the case of faulty brake light switch, the ABS warning light will be on.
You still have air in your lines and possibly ABS unit.
I am not sure how things are on Benz, but in BMW world you need a proper software to activate ABS unit to push the air out. Regular brake pedal pump does not get air out from ABS unit
 

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You are stating that the breaks are spongy, so you might have air in the system.
Did you unplug any electrical connection brakes related? If you have the "red" light will come on until you reset it. Are you sure your scanner is capable of resetting the MB brakes?
Have you checked the fluid level?
I used "Motive Power Bleeder" for BF flush and wonder how some air got into ABS system. The fluid level is ok. To get rid of ETS & BAS/ESP warnings only, I just have to turn the steering wheel from one end to the other. I am not sure about 'parking brake light'
I took out the electrical connector attached to the lid of BF reservoir and put it back.

Before re-doing BF flush, I want to confirm if it is recommended to use any "mineral type of BF" instead of Castrol synthetic one.

1. Is MB brake fluid mineral based?
2. Isn't synthetic BF better than mineral?
3. Is this symptom related to brake light switch?
4. Can I get rid of air trapped in ABS system by power-bleeding again?

Thanks all for your response:thumbsup:
 

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99 ML430, 00 ML320, 05 E500 4matic Wagon
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The only fluid I would use is DOT 4+. If you are changing brands you will want to flush out all the old stuff when going to a new brand.

You do not need a mineral based fluid. In fact a lot of high performance brake companies advise against it once regular fluid has been in a vehicle for years.

I use Castrol SRF in only one car and it has mega brakes on a 1.5 ton car. It is a track car and the SRF fluid is $90 a liter. It is a mineral fluid and has been in the system since I built the car.
 

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Kamikaze, Noodles answered your 1 & 2 questions. You can check the PDF for confirmation. I don't think it is BLS related. If it was the BLS the ABS light would have lit as well.
Remove the BF reservoir cap & check that the floater is not stuck. Also make sure you have plugged the electrical connection properly.
If the lights are still on then most probably there is air in the system. You can manually bleed the brakes as per the WIS doc.
 

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