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1976 300D, 1972 350SL
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13 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
I have a 1972 350/450 sl VIN number 107.044 12-002459. My front right caliper is dragging. I obviously need to either rebuild it or replace it. it is a ATE brand. Rebuilding it myself looks to be a procedure that could be frustrating if not done correctly the first time ( Least expensive option). However I am willing to try if need be. If purchasing new or rebuilt I see I have several options as far as parts houses. Pelican (381.00), MBZ parts (292.00) , Bud's (350.00 to rebuild my caliper) or even Mercedes classic center ( $ unknown). Which route should I take? Which parts house should I choose? What other parts houses should I consider? Of course I will be replacing brake hoses, pads and pins as well. Any and all advice will be greatly appreciated.
Thanks
 

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560SL '88 Suzuki GS1000E '78
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438 Posts
Hi,

rebuilding the calipers is a very nice and easy job - don't panic. The only problem may be to get the pistons out. Once they are sticky and corroded it will be very hard if you don't do this as the first job.

DON'T open the brake lines and/or uninstall the calipers. FIRST remove the brake pad (due to sticky piston usually there will be one which is thinner than the other - start with this) and press the piston out with the hydraulic force of the brake system. If it touches the disk, remove the other pad and pump out the other piston. Check the brake fluid level frequently during this procedure and refill, then take the other side.
If all 4 Pistons are out, touching the disks, you can uninstall the calipers and open the brake lines.

For the maintenance you will find a lot of videos on YT, but please remember the two hints "DON'T" and "FIRST"
Trying to get corroded pistons out using with pressurized air won't work. Air pressure is normally limited to 10bar, the hydraulic system provides more than 100bar.

Cheers Martin
 

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1999 SLK 230, 1973 450 SLC
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91 Posts
Hi,

rebuilding the calipers is a very nice and easy job - don't panic. The only problem may be to get the pistons out. Once they are sticky and corroded it will be very hard if you don't do this as the first job.

DON'T open the brake lines and/or uninstall the calipers. FIRST remove the brake pad (due to sticky piston usually there will be one which is thinner than the other - start with this) and press the piston out with the hydraulic force of the brake system. If it touches the disk, remove the other pad and pump out the other piston. Check the brake fluid level frequently during this procedure and refill, then take the other side.
If all 4 Pistons are out, touching the disks, you can uninstall the calipers and open the brake lines.

For the maintenance you will find a lot of videos on YT, but please remember the two hints "DON'T" and "FIRST"
Trying to get corroded pistons out using with pressurized air won't work. Air pressure is normally limited to 10bar, the hydraulic system provides more than 100bar.

Cheers Martin
I've also read that old clogged flex hose to caliper won't let pressure release. I've not had the best of success getting them off my '73. Good luck.
 

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95 C280 M104 3.6L, 98 C43 M113 5.5L
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4 Posts
I've also read that old clogged flex hose to caliper won't let pressure release. I've not had the best of success getting them off my '73. Good luck.
Yes, this is true on any car. Old hoses can even internally collapse not allowing release of pressure. Have the hoses been replaced?
 

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1988 560 sl 1987 560 sl
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60 Posts
I have a 1972 350/450 sl VIN number 107.044 12-002459. My front right caliper is dragging. I obviously need to either rebuild it or replace it. it is a ATE brand. Rebuilding it myself looks to be a procedure that could be frustrating if not done correctly the first time ( Least expensive option). However I am willing to try if need be. If purchasing new or rebuilt I see I have several options as far as parts houses. Pelican (381.00), MBZ parts (292.00) , Bud's (350.00 to rebuild my caliper) or even Mercedes classic center ( $ unknown). Which route should I take? Which parts house should I choose? What other parts houses should I consider? Of course I will be replacing brake hoses, pads and pins as well. Any and all advice will be greatly appreciated.
Thanks
CARID is a great source for remand calipers or rebuilding parts, need to send your old calipers back for core charge, they have ATE brand . I purchased both no problem.
 

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Premium Member
'72 350SL, '85 300D, '98 E320, '19 Subaru Outback (sold '14 GLK250)
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11,574 Posts

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Premium Member
'72 350SL, '85 300D, '98 E320, '19 Subaru Outback (sold '14 GLK250)
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11,574 Posts
I have a 1972 350/450 sl VIN number 107.044 12-002459. My front right caliper is dragging. I obviously need to either rebuild it or replace it. it is a ATE brand.
I replaced front pads on my 72 SL last year. At the time, I posted this - might be worth reading: Brake Pads and calipers for early 107s.

I try to do most things myself, but I chose not to rebuild my own calipers on my 85 300D. I found several shops in Toronto who would do them for C$60/each. Came back looking like new with proper heat shield installed (Some rebuilders leave them off).

Maybe you can find a rebuilder in your area? If you have your own calipers rebuilt, at least you know they will be correct for your car. Looking at Autohaus Arizona and Rock Auto, they don't even show calipers for 107s built in 71 or early 72. Partsgeek only show new Chassis # cut-off for early type seems to be 9729. Local stores may be able to send your for rebuild at Cardone or similar.

On my 72 350SL (almost same VIN as yours!) I once had a stuck rear caliper. I was still working back then, so had a local shop have a look at what was causing the noise. When I picked it up, they had installed a pair of new rear calipers! At great cost!
 

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Premium Member
1986 560SL with M120 V12 Engine, 1988 560SL Stock
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11,747 Posts
Even if you don't trust companies like Cardone. Its still worth while to have them exchanged for rebuilt calipers from companies like them because the do a great job of cleaning them up for a reasonable price. You can then easily take them apart and replace the seals with ATE seals. But I would return the cores without the shields in case they don't provide replacements. Note last I checked the ATE seal kit cost more than the rebuilt caliper.
 

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1986 560SL with M120 V12 Engine, 1988 560SL Stock
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11,747 Posts
Does anyone know if the older cars can be fitted with the newer calipers?
 

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Outstanding Contributor , Bob's Your Uncle!
83 280 SL- 5 speed-The PIG
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30,804 Posts
Note last I checked the ATE seal kit cost more than the rebuilt caliper.
2007 I rebuilt my calipers and the kit, did, in fact, cost more than what you Americans could get a rebuilt for.

Funny enough....I never checked HERE how much a rebuilt would cost. Kits were $70 at the time. ATE.
 

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Premium Member
1986 560SL with M120 V12 Engine, 1988 560SL Stock
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11,747 Posts
2007 I rebuilt my calipers and the kit, did, in fact, cost more than what you Americans could get a rebuilt for.

Funny enough....I never checked HERE how much a rebuilt would cost. Kits were $70 at the time. ATE.
I sort of did the same thing. Looked on line and found genuine ATE rebuilt' s for some stupid price like $500 each. So I ordered the ATE kits and rebuilt them myself. After that I checked the local auto parts stores and found rebuilt units from Cardone at around $60. I bet I could buy rebuilt calipers from Cardone and sell them on E'bay for $150.
 

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Outstanding Contributor , Bob's Your Uncle!
83 280 SL- 5 speed-The PIG
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30,804 Posts
Looked on line and found genuine ATE rebuilt' s for some stupid price like $500 each.
Core charge included, I'm guessing.

I remember getting a rebuilt waterpump for The PIG at MB. And it wasn't too bad....$90 but with a $250 core charge!

Again...back in 2007.
 

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Premium Member
1986 560SL with M120 V12 Engine, 1988 560SL Stock
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11,747 Posts
Just checked Pelican Parts for 560SL front break parts

rebuilt calipers $64 no name brand "OE Parts"
Mercedes seal kits 88.75
ATE seal kits $46.00

ATE rebuilts for the 560SL are nowhere to be found. But they are available for the 450SL at about $300 each
 

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1986 560SL with M120 V12 Engine, 1988 560SL Stock
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11,747 Posts
Interesting New units are available from Pelican parts for the 380SL and the genuine MB ones are cheaper than the ATE ones. I wonder if its possible ATE was not the original supplier for the 380SL.

2684306
 

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'72 350SL, '85 300D, '98 E320, '19 Subaru Outback (sold '14 GLK250)
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11,574 Posts
Time to pick a lotto ticket.
I am not sure why being built in 1972 is an advantage? Our 72s need different calipers from those built later and are more difficult to find.

I wouldn't trust those Autozone dates without doing further checking. They dont correspond with other on-line info
 

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560SL '88 Suzuki GS1000E '78
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438 Posts
OK, we drifted a bit away...
For the 560 the ATE-Kit comes only with the seals, no pistons. BUT the pistons are really great from the Frenkit-Set. The seals in that kit are scrap, but the pistons and breathers are great. 27€/set !!
Frenkit 240958
I used ATE seals and pistons/breathers from Frenkit

Cheers Martin
2684327
 
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