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2010 E350 4matic
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325 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Hi all,
My 1st post here, I must say this is a great site of lots of useful info.

Guys I need some help, two days ago I bought my 1st Benz ever, a 97 E320 with 196km on it. The car looks like it was very very well taken care of. The car drives and shifts really well execpt for when the car is not fully warmed up the gears are dragged a little longer and after 1-2 mins of driving all goes back to normal. It is really cold here in toronto and i think thats how the transmission is designed to work under cold weather to bring up the temp at required level faster? there are no leaks under the car. The car has been serviced regularly at a MB dealership here in Toronto and i have all the service record from day 1 to when it was last serviced at 147KM. Not sure it has been serviced at the local garage after that or not but there is no record in the service log book.

Anyways after i picked up the car i stoped to gas up, i put 91 octane and right after my "check engine elecrtonics" messege came on but car continued driving and shifting just fine. I did some reading here and from what i read i figured that i might be the gas cap so yesterday i reopened the cap and closed it properly and made sure it was tight (with the car off ofcourse). After that i unpluged the battery to reset the "Check engine electronics" Messege and waited abt 5 mins before i rehooked the battery. After rehooking the battery i started the car and sure enough the message had gone away but my engine started shaking and i could feel the whole car shaking with me in it for abt a min or so and then everything went back to normal. I took it for a quick spin and it drove normal. Now today while coming back from work the "check engine electronics" messege came up again but car still drives and shifts very smooth. Any idea as to what could it be? Could it be the MAF sensor? And if so how much i am lookin at to get that replaced? It is running a little heavy on gas i think, i put $30 worth of 91 octane and it drove abt 150km (hwy and local combined) and i did not push it at all.

I understand it's hard to say what could it be without pulling the code but any advise would be greatly appreciated since this is my 1st benz and i dont know a whole lot about these cars.

I was also woundering if i should get a tune up done on it (plugs, wires, oil change and the belt i believe its called the v belt) what would be a good price for doing all this? And should i also get the tranny oil changed or leave it alone? I dont wanna take it to the MB dlr and pay a fortune.

Wow this is getting long so ill shut up with all the newbie question :)
Once again guys any advise would be greatly appreciated..

Cheers
 

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Registered
Mercedes-Benz 1998 E320 - 160,000 Miles Strong
Joined
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215 Posts
Hi all,
My 1st post here, I must say this is a great site of lots of useful info.

Guys I need some help, two days ago I bought my 1st Benz ever, a 97 E320 with 196km on it. The car looks like it was very very well taken care of. The car drives and shifts really well execpt for when the car is not fully warmed up the gears are dragged a little longer and after 1-2 mins of driving all goes back to normal. It is really cold here in toronto and i think thats how the transmission is designed to work under cold weather to bring up the temp at required level faster? there are no leaks under the car. The car has been serviced regularly at a MB dealership here in Toronto and i have all the service record from day 1 to when it was last serviced at 147KM. Not sure it has been serviced at the local garage after that or not but there is no record in the service log book.

Anyways after i picked up the car i stoped to gas up, i put 91 octane and right after my "check engine elecrtonics" messege came on but car continued driving and shifting just fine. I did some reading here and from what i read i figured that i might be the gas cap so yesterday i reopened the cap and closed it properly and made sure it was tight (with the car off ofcourse). After that i unpluged the battery to reset the "Check engine electronics" Messege and waited abt 5 mins before i rehooked the battery. After rehooking the battery i started the car and sure enough the message had gone away but my engine started shaking and i could feel the whole car shaking with me in it for abt a min or so and then everything went back to normal. I took it for a quick spin and it drove normal. Now today while coming back from work the "check engine electronics" messege came up again but car still drives and shifts very smooth. Any idea as to what could it be? Could it be the MAF sensor? And if so how much i am lookin at to get that replaced? It is running a little heavy on gas i think, i put $30 worth of 91 octane and it drove abt 150km (hwy and local combined) and i did not push it at all.

I understand it's hard to say what could it be without pulling the code but any advise would be greatly appreciated since this is my 1st benz and i dont know a whole lot about these cars.

I was also woundering if i should get a tune up done on it (plugs, wires, oil change and the belt i believe its called the v belt) what would be a good price for doing all this? And should i also get the tranny oil changed or leave it alone? I dont wanna take it to the MB dlr and pay a fortune.

Wow this is getting long so ill shut up with all the newbie question :)
Once again guys any advise would be greatly appreciated..

Cheers
Do yourself a favor and buy an OBDII scanner. As far as everything you mentioned its all possible. First step is a proper diagnosis, unless course you have money to throw on parts at the car untill you stumble upon the answer. Also flush the tranny and buy a new tranny filter it's well worth it if you know how to change the engine oil its that easy. Check your Coolant and Oil Colors as well. I came here as a noob too so I know how fast the money can go into fixing one of these cars. ;)
 

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Registered
2008 E350 110k, 2000 E320 143k, 1983 380SEC 240k
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950 Posts
Not sure about your '97 model, but generally at 100,00 miles = 160,000 km a number of maintenance items are needed - plugs, O2 sensors, gas cap gasket, etc. Check your maintenance schedule because chances are nothing has been done since 147,000 km. So I recommend doing the B service and all the routine maintenance for your mileage.

Get a code reader. They are not expensive and a great help.

Do a lot of reading here and keep plugging away. You may have to take care of a number of issues, but you'll end up with a great car. You'll find a great bunch of guys here, always willing to help. You need to do some homework, and you're off to a good start.
 

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Registered
2010 E350 4matic
Joined
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325 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
Ok Guys,

i just took it to my friend's garage and pulled the code, it came up as "P0170".
I cleaned the air filter and took out the MAF sensor and gave them both a nice cleaning. after putting everything back i reset the code. The check engine electronics message has gone away and i feel that the car is actually driving a lot smoother, lighter and a little more responsive..(maybe it's just me) :)

Anyway the car is reaching 200,000 KM (196km to be exact) so i wanna get a full tune up done on it..can one of the guru's here pls give me advise as to what i should get done? i don't have $$ to throw away so don't wanna spend what i don't have to.

I am thinking to get new plugs, wires, o2 sensors, maybe flush the ATF and the belt in the front by behind the grill (sorry i am sure what that is called). how much should i be looking at to get all the above done??

anything else i should look into?? Thanks a lot for your advice in advance guys.

Happy benzing. :thumbsup:

Cheers
 

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Registered
E320/E250 Bluetec Ford F350 6.7l
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36,717 Posts
Looks like you are doing good so far. If you don't have records that the items you mention were replaced -do them as they are already past due. The serpentine belts can last long time, so inspect it. Still at the age getting spare might be good idea. Your transmission has converter plug, what makes for easy flush.
And yes, on cold engine the computer will hold 1st gear longer for a warm up.
 

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Registered
'04 G55 '80 280GE '99 S420 '98 E320 2011 E350 2016 GLA250
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3,093 Posts
I, personally, would add to the list:

Coolant Service

Brake Fluid Flush

Rear Differential Oil Change.

Power Steering Fluid Exchange

Fuel Filter.

Poly V Belt

Plug Bushing Replacement and Pressure Regulator Spring with the Transmission Fluid Service

G
 

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Registered
1999 E55, 2001 E320, 1990 560 SEC, 2004 ML350, 2001 ML55, 1995 S500, 1998 SL500, 2010 E550 Sport zoo
Joined
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7,035 Posts
With that mileage you want to do prudent maintenance that will prevent future cataclysmic failure, and extend the life of the car, affordably.

Do not freak if the CEL light for the MAF comes back relatively soon. Cleaning can help a MAF, but if the MAF has gone beyond spec the CEL will come back. Note for replacement, replace ONLY with genuine Bosch MAF from a reputable source at $170-$200 for your car depending on type.

Your list:

new plugs - A good thing, OE plug about $60 + $30 for the boot tool (do a search)

wires - a low priority optional thing if you have no misfires now, and boot removal tool will spare stress on the old wires and coils

o2 sensors - optional unless you have specific code for failure your old sensors (no codes) have eroded potential milage/efficiency but you should consider higher priorities 1st.

flush the ATF - the tranny is one key, and do NOT do a power flush. You can do either a pan-pull-filter replacement (about 50% of the fluid) or do a forum search for a full pump-ou-full-replace. Critical here, meaning critical - is both use correct MB fluid specific for the tranny (not the newer fluid) and if DIY you need to be preapred to be surgical about it. Indie pan+pulll should be about $350.

tranny connector plug - a $20 part and a must do. Easiest done at same time as tranny service

belt in the front by behind the grill - if you are talking the accessory belt, this is best done by checking the belt tensioner 1st, if it has not been updated then this tensiooner is on the MUST do list. Also check idler pulley for cracking. Tensioner $70-$120 (Uro or better with Litens) + idler pulley $15 + belt $30. Relatively easy DIY under 1 hr, the idler pulley is a bit more intensive but doable.

Other's recommend:

Coolant Service - A MUST do really, correct Zerex or Valvoline G-05 coolant and distilled water mix (not tap or hose water) - coolant will be like $25, distilled water nominal. EZ DIY.

Brake Fluid Flush - a very good thing with this milage, I am not one to recommend a DIY.

Rear Differential Oil Change - a A easy thing with MB spec general fluid.

Power Steering Fluid Exchange - Using MB fluid and a turkey baster.

Fuel Filter - Bosch fule filter around $40 and four standard hose clamps to replace the MB trickster clamps. EZ DIY.

Poly V Belt - gets replaced with the tensioner, easy DIY.

Plug Bushing Replacement and Pressure Regulator Spring with the Transmission Fluid Service - Pressure regulator spring can be done with the indie tranny work, very good call.

Other -

Fuel system cleaner - use a additive to clean up the injection system either Techron large bottle or the Lucas product

Air filter - replace now with OE Mann filter under $20 online

Oil - for sure for sure, spec is 0W40 Mobil One gets a little pricey, OE Mann/Bosch/Meyle fleece oil filter under $20 online

Keep the faith !
 

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E320/E250 Bluetec Ford F350 6.7l
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36,717 Posts
Just to bring some perspective -you don't need to spend next 3 weeks working on the car. When MAF could be urgent issue -the others not affecting the car performance can wait.
This forum is occupy by owners who pamper their vehicles.
I rather drive them and do fix things only when they break.
My car is closing on 220,000 miles. I am not touching the differential, PS and other things. Did the transmission at 200k, although looks like PO did something on it.
Could be my luck, could be some mechanical instincts I have that allow me catch the issue before becomes problem, but I drive Mercedes not spending more than $100 a year on parts. In some years the $100 include oil.
 
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