[ysmitty]

Hi Nutz,

I have finally narrowed down my intermittent starting problem as a bad ECU. Car won't start, hit ECU with rubber mallett, like magic it comes back to life. Here is the question I have. My ECU # is 0280002005 have found some with this number on Ebay but they want $300 used with no warranty. Found a junkyard with one out of the same year 450sl but the ECU # is 0280022008 for very cheap. Do the numbers have to be an exact match? Any idea if this will work?

Thanks for the help,

Smitty

 

[Nutz 4 Benz]

The ECU in my '74 450SE is 0280002008. Not sure if you mistyped the second number, but if you did, and it matches mine, it will work fine.

 

[ysmitty]

The ECU in my '74 450SE is 0280002008. Not sure if you mistyped the second number, but if you did, and it matches mine, it will work fine.

You were right, I plugged in the 0280002008 ECU and the car runs fine now. The only difference was the case did not have the little pins with the rubber mounting feet that my ECU had. A couple of well placed zip ties took care of that problem.

Thanks for the help,

Smitty

 

[pvalperga]

hola a todos necesito toda la informacion posible para un w114 250ce 1969 que no arranca hace tres años ,gracias

 

[Nutz 4 Benz]

Try the vintage forum, pvalperga.

 

[benz_racing]

M116 D-Jetronic

Hi

I have a Mercedes M116 3.5L D-Jetronic

It just goes on 3 cylinder on one side and 1 on the other side. it has spark and getting fuel to the cylinders that have problems. trigger connectors are switching and distribution system has been changed. has also changed pressure sensor with no improvement.

any good suggestions? :surrender:

best regards

Benz racing Norway

 

[benz_racing]

Hi

I have a Mercedes M116 3.5L D-Jetronic

It just goes on 3 cylinder on one side and 1 on the other side. it has spark and getting fuel to the cylinders that have problems. trigger connectors are switching and distribution system has been changed. has also changed pressure sensor with no improvement.

any good suggestions? :surrender:

best regards

Benz racing Norway

Sorry, running on 4 cylinders and not 3 as I wrote

 

[IRI]

tanx

so helpfull for me

 

[Nutz 4 Benz]

Hi

I have a Mercedes M116 3.5L D-Jetronic

It just goes on 3 cylinder on one side and 1 on the other side. it has spark and getting fuel to the cylinders that have problems. trigger connectors are switching and distribution system has been changed. has also changed pressure sensor with no improvement.

any good suggestions? :surrender:

best regards

Benz racing Norway

What voltage are you getting at the injectors on the 3 failing cylinders? 3 volt is what they need. Check the injector wiring too for a break or short.

 

[tony66_au]

Hi Nutz,

Im in the process of sorting a few issues with my 1977 W116 450SE (M117) and the next stage is removal of the LPG (Propane) fuel system that came with the car to return it to running on petrol only.

The only issue now stopping me from removing the LPG system is that the car wont start on fuel or run under 2000 Rpm, drop the revs below 2000 and the car shuts off, no stumbling, coughing or roughness but she just stops cold.

You cant even "Catch" it with the throttle.

On LPG the car idle is all over the place and the car is much smoother on petrol just nothing under 2000.

Any help appreciated.

Tony

 

[duncan prince]

I have an 82 W126 380SE RHD model in south africa. Car has stood without being used for approx 2 years. tried starting the car wouldn't take at all, then found fuel pump to be defective. Replaced fuel pump and high pressure filter, engine now starts easily runs for couple of seconds presumably off the cold start injector, then cuts out. If I wedge a small object in the air mass sensor plate to keep it open engine continues to run. Air mass sensor plate does seem a little stiff but does move up and down when depressed. Is this a likely cause of the problem, and what do I do to rectify the problem as I am a bit reluctant to start opening up the fuel distributor unless absolutely necessary.
Duncan

 

[Nutz 4 Benz]

Has the CO adjustment been screwed with? Check for vacuum leaks too. Also, is this KE Jetronic?

 

[Kt350]

Djet on a 75 350SE

Dear Nuts 4

I've been trying to run down a low power issue. Found that the temperature switch goes to ground when hot. I've ordered a new one. Now I've got a question. The change-over works when the AC is turned on but not when I ground the temp. sensor. My Haynes book shows release contact connection, should this be check there?

Thanks

 

[RoyM]

I'm a new W116 owner here in Canada. I have a 1979 450 SEL with the 4.5 motor. I'm having some trouble with what I think might be a fuel starvation issue.

The car will start with difficulty both cold or warm. On cold start it idles very rough and I need to manually keep the airflow plate open a little bit. After it warms up to operating temperature the rough idle disappears but I still need to manually keep the airflow plate open slightly.

Both hot or cold when I touch the gas pedal even a little the engine stumbles and then dies. It will not develop any RPM above an idle. It will restart again with diffculty but does the same thing everytime I press the gas.

I have checked fuel delivery to the fuel distributor and there is no problem with the fuel getting that far. I have cleaned the inlet fitting screen and it does not restrict fuel flow either.

I'm not familiar with the K Jetronic system so if anyone has idea what the problem might be, I would really appreciate the assistance.


Thanks,

Roy

 

[HenryPjohnson]

1970 280SE convertible video using a GoPro camera

my brother and a couple friends of ours took my mom 1970 280SE convertible out to lunch for a spin on a beautiful day in Pasadena,CA using a GoPro camera.

 

[Nutz 4 Benz]

K Jetronic Basics

 

[fanal]

D-jet trouble

Hi, my D-jet doesnt start when warm. (Sometimes it doesnt even start when cold, but thats rare). If it starts it gets too much fuel which means a lot of smoke and it doesnt run long. What's the matter with it?

 

[colarc01]

W114.072 D-Jet ICU

Hi Nutz,
Do you happen to know or know where I can find some way to troubleshoot the components in my ICU. I have it out of the car since the previous owner had bypassed it. It runs rich and high idle and I need to try to get back to correct setup before I troubleshoot why it is running like this.


Thanks
Tim

 

[Nutz 4 Benz]

Points primary 1.2 - 1.6 Ohms secondary 7 - 12K Ohms

Transistorized ignition with starting resistance primary 0.33 - 0.46 Ohms secondary 7 - 12K Ohms

Transistorized ignition without starting resistance primary 0.5 - 0.9 Ohms secondary 6 -16K Ohms


With starting resistance
Turn key to on position

Connect a voltmeter to the coil #15 terminal and ground. You should get about 4.5 V.
Now, #1 of coil to ground, you should get 0.5 - 2.0 V, and if any higher, the ICU needs replacing


Without starting resistance

Unscrew diagnostic socket cap.
Turn key to on position

Connect a voltmeter to terminals 4 and 5 and you should get 0 V. If you get anything higher than 0.1 V, turn the ignition switch off immediately. The ICU is toast. Best to have a friend at the ready sitting in car.

Curious, is your control lead going to distributor very stiff?

 

[colarc01]

Thank You for the reply, The control lead going to the coil was not bypassed. The leads that go everywhere from the ICU are bypassed. I have the ICU out of the car and the car is running. It is just not quite proper at the moment. It is running rich and very high idle when timed correctly. I was going to troubleshoot the internal components of the ICU but I cannot find a schematic for it. I am hopinh to find an obvious component that is bad if not I will be forced to purchase a whole unit.