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Discussion Starter #61
I hear that, @humblejoe! My time is the biggest thing and is the very reason why this car wasn't even diagnosed when it crapped out 2 years ago. We had just bought a house with major issues and there was no end in sight. Things have come a long way since then and I'm glad to finally be tearing into this old car.

I picked up a whole bunch of cleaning supplies and brushes yesterday so I can get the block cleaned up. I am debating on pulling the alternator bracket off so I can really clean up that side. Once I start receiving all the parts, I still need to pick up new coolant, a citric acid flush and probably some other consumables. I did get new plugs, even though the ones that were in there barely had any miles on them. I'm also replacing several coolant hoses and the thermostat.
 

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Discussion Starter #62
Ever wonder what would happen if either the offending oil return line was welded shut or a channel was fabricated to route the oil past the parting line so it never gets near the HG again? I suspect problem solved rather than the "Band-aid" of the latest Mercedes gasket which eventually will fail again.
I've wondered in anyone has ever welded in the chamfer at the intersection of the head, block, timing chain cover to prevent the possibility of oil pooling there again. ( I don't remember which specific piece has the chamfer, the head?)
 

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I've wondered in anyone has ever welded in the chamfer at the intersection of the head, block, timing chain cover to prevent the possibility of oil pooling there again. ( I don't remember which specific piece has the chamfer, the head?)
Just like how an engineer protects an oil pressure line at the head gasket (metal insert) the same thing at the cylinder 6 oil return line would solve this problem forever. The next HG failure I have will get this fix. Its easy and its permanent.
 

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Discussion Starter #64
Teardown continues. I’ve got the head all cleaned up, the lower intake manifold and throttle body, valve cover and alternator. I have all the bolts out of the alternator bracket but still need to pull it. Then I can work on cleaning up the block.
I installed new motor mounts the other day and couldn’t believe the height difference from new to old. Also, the old ones rattle when you shake them.
Still waiting on the head gasket and a bunch of parts. Ordered a new fuel pressure regulator, fuel injector o-rings and a fuel filter.
In the meantime, a coil spring broke on the front of my Audi, so that’s in the works too.



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Discussion Starter #65
Does anyone have a breakdown of what all of the o-rings and washers are for in the head gasket kit? The large red o-ring goes in the upper timing cover. Not so sure about everything else.
 

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Discussion Starter #66 (Edited)
Need some help

I could really use some help with the washers and o-rings in the above post. None of the parts breakdowns I have found actually list out what parts come with the head gasket kit. There are 5 metal washers of a couple different sizes, a fat dark gray o-ring, a larger black o-ring and a larger red o-ring (that one I know is for the timing cover). Also, the little two hole gasket is for the air pump to block connection but I'm not clear on whether I am supposed to leave the original rubber o-ring in the air pump connection pipe and mate that to the new gasket, or if the new gasket replaces the o-ring. I do not remember taking off a two hole gasket like that.
 

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Discussion Starter #67
Well, I can tell you that the two hole gasket definitely needs to be used in conjunction with the rubber o-ring that is installed in the air pump pipe outlet. Looking at it last night, there is no way a seal would be created without the o-ring up against the gasket.
I've got the exhaust manifolds installed on the head again. Looking good so far.
 

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Looks like that Audi spring has been broken for a while.:eek

Good luck on the head gasket. Sorry I can't help with the various o-rings, etc. But I'm rooting for you!


Cheers,

Kim G
Redding, CA
Where "Kool April Nites" is now ongoing. Few if any Benzes, though.
 

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Discussion Starter #69
^^^ I agree. The clunking has been going on for a few months and since I'm in the salt belt, all the rust makes sense. That being said, since I had the car in the air last week and the suspension was fully extended, once I put the car back down, it hasn't made a clunk ever since. Makes me wonder if the spring has been broken for longer than I thought but was sitting just right as to not make any noise.
 

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Discussion Starter #70 (Edited)
Alternator bracket, alternator, air pump and lower intake manifold are clean all bolted back up. Looking good so far!
Couple pics of the head ready to go:

 

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Dtsdig please check the valves, and make sure thay are not bent from cylinder 6 . Along with the piston con rod .As the piston is pushed up in to the cylinder the water will go no where and it may have bent one or all items on the cylinder 6 the chunk chunk noise as you told us about is the noise that it makes when the piston hits the water inside the cylinder bore because there is no exit for it . And by the way your doing a good job .
 

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Discussion Starter #72
Thanks for the advice! I have inspected the valves closely and there is no damage visible. I also measured the height of the piston face in reference to the block surface as compared to the other cylinders. The height is exactly the same at its peak comparing #1 and #6, so the rods are ok. I believe the inrush of coolant happened after I shut the car off which is why there is no catastrophic damage. We’ll see if I’m right very soon!
 

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Discussion Starter #74
Morning fellas, made a major step last night and set the head back onto the motor! If the weather cooperates, I will bolt it down this afternoon and start the rest of the reassembly! I’m dropping off the valve cover to be blasted and power coated today. Almost there!


Everything is cleaned up and ready to go.





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Woo Hoo!!! Congratulations!!! You must be excited! I'm happy for you. Soon we'll have another Benz back on the road.

Cheers,

Kim G
Redding, CA
Where I should try to muster the energy to at least wash my SLK, haha.
 

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Discussion Starter #76
Major progress this weekend! I should have the valve cover back from powder coat this week. I need to install the throttle body tonight and everything else is done. I even changed the transmission mount yesterday, which was not fun at all. The original was beat though!



Once the valve cover shows up, I’ll put the plugs in and get the coils wired up. I still need to put the new serpentine belt on. I’m getting very close!

Here’s the list of new stuff in case anyone is interested:
Spark plugs
Thermostat
Serpentine idler pulley
Upper radiator hose
Lower radiator hose
Water pump hose
Motor mounts
Transmission mount
Crossover pipe breather seals (mounted on the valve cover)
Head gasket kit
Valve cover gasket kit
Fuel injector o-rings
Fuel pressure regulator
Fuel filter
Oil filter
New coolant
New oil
New rubber bits for several vacuum lines

Once the car is running again, I have new front struts and all associates parts and new rotors all the way around since sitting for two years trashed the new rotors that were only is use for a couple months.


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Well, I'll bet you're excited about getting your baby back on the road!

I noticed that your pulleys are quite rusty. If I were you, I'd take a wire wheel to them and then repaint them, or at least put something like a very thin coat of, say, linseed oil on them. I have an old Toyota pickup that just used to positively eat fan belts (the old style ones). It was quite a mystery until I figured out that it was the rust on the pulleys destroying them. Once I cleaned up the pulleys, it stopped eating fan belts.

Cheers and keep up the good work!

Kim G
Redding, CA
Where I really ought to get around to changing the coolant in my SLK.
 

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Discussion Starter #79
@CheckEngine Thank you and I will definitely be cleaning up the pulleys before I put a new belt on. They actually aren't as bad as the photos make them look but I'll be taking a wire wheel to them. It sure is exciting!
 

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Discussion Starter #80
You can swap out, but need the fan bearing cover from gen 2 I think.
I think you are correct. There is part number 1042001328 for the gen 2 fan bearing bracket and 1042001528 for the gen 1 version. I wonder what else changes with hardware, etc. I know the belt length is different as well. I wish I had both version cars in front of me.
In any case, in the interest of getting this beast fired up again, I just ordered the Febi kit and Stabilus damper. Parts should be here Friday which is also when I hope to have the refreshed valve cover back.
With any luck, I will be firing this baby up this weekend!
 
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