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Discussion Starter #1
I woke up this morning with a sense of excitement after spending the last few weeks preparing to replace my roaring blower motor, and oh how quickly did that sense of excitement turn into shear panic. Having read through countless discussions and all of the horror stories I was fully prepared to have to improvise should a bold shear off, but nothing could have prepared me for what the bulkhead looked like upon removing the blower motor assembly and seal.. With absolutely no idea where to go from here, I am soliciting guidance, ideas, suggestions, and perhaps moral support from my fellow 107'ers.
2619803
2619804
2619805
 

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'79 450SL, '04 CLK200 convertible; former A124, W210, A209.
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Oh man, that is a proper bummer. The two choices you have, other than do nothing, is either:

1) clean the area of all flaking rust, paint it all with POR 15, and use fibreglass to reinforce /redo the bottom edge. Worst case scenario is live without the blower - do you need it? I use my car only in dry weather so technically could get away without it.

2) do the proper repair, which involves taking out the dashboard and a lot of stuff that's in the way. Complex and expensive unless you can do it yourself, panels are available Mercedes-Benz SL Bulkhead Panel Repair Kit

It sort of comes down to how "properly" you want this corrected and how much you're willing to invest to get there....
 

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'79 450SL, '04 CLK200 convertible; former A124, W210, A209.
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By the way, is this a car you recently acquired? If so you really ought to check chassis and sills inside out as chances are there's more horror underneath... Unfortunately 107s rot inside out.
 

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1981 380SL
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I have made peace with the realization that my 107 will turn to dust at some point, and rust/rot is an inevitability; particularly for folks on the east coast in the US. Honestly, my stress level and anxiety (re: 107 woes) dropped tremendously and I enjoy the car MUCH more now, ha!

That being said, your blower compartment does not look great, and personally, I would clean it up, lay down some POR15 and fiberglass filler (to give the blower motor something to attach to), and call it a day. The 鈥減roper鈥 repair is a nightmare and it鈥檚 likely you鈥檝e got many other unfortunate surprises..
 

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SL65(R231),SL65(R230), SL600, 560SL,560SL,E300, 240D,1967 250SL, 1968 250SL,1984 380SL
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Gurus:
Are there preventive measures for damages like this??? (other than avoiding water) Can one prophylactically coat or seal??

Best regards
Mike P
 

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'79 450SL, '04 CLK200 convertible; former A124, W210, A209.
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I think the most important preventative measure one can take is to ensure water drains on either side of the heater blower compartment (right outside) are never clogged up. If I understood correctly this sort of damage occurs when thedrains get blocked, causeing water to overflow into the chamber where its trapped until it evaporates or becomes tin worm.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Thanks guys - If going the fiberglass route what is used to adhere the blower motor to the car as replacements to the rusted out bolts?
 

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'79 450SL, '04 CLK200 convertible; former A124, W210, A209.
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One option would be to use POR 15, a lot of it, to protect the existing metal. Then, rebuild the bottom portion using power mesh and more por 15, and while you're at it fit the bolts and reinforce with POR 15 patch. That should be a fairly permanent hold. Have a look here Preparation Products
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Miko1aj - Thank you. Does anyone have any experience or thoughts on Miracle Paint vs. using POR15 which I see is commonly recommend? From some of the MercedesSource videos it looks like the Miracle Paint can be used directly on the fiberglass mesh.
 

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'79 450SL, '04 CLK200 convertible; former A124, W210, A209.
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No worries dirtjb18, most of us here know how daunting rust issues can be.

I've used por 15 extensively on my R107, whole chassis underneath is actually painted with it. This stuff is bulletproof, and yes - you can paint it directly over fiber glass or any other porous surface. Can't speak for Miracle paint, not that its bad - I've just never used it.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
I鈥檝e spent the afternoon pondering next steps based upon all the wonderful feedback and wanted to get your guys鈥 thoughts on this idea... Amongst the various brackets sold at Home Depot I found these L Brackets, one of which I鈥檝e placed under what鈥檚 left of the top right scuttle, thinking this could be used as a mount for a new bolt followed by some fiberglass restructuring... Could this possibly work or i am not thinking about this correctly?

I鈥檝e marked in a white line to illustrate the approximate horizontal length:

2620030
 

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1983 380SL, 2000 S430, 1991 420SEL (retired) - RHD
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I had exactly the same problem. I took the dash out but it's not necessary if you only need to fix that problem. I had other issues to address .I used POR15 ( any reliable treatment will do) and fiberglass to rebuild the one broken mount and bought a new rubber grommet . It's tricky inserting the new grommet without the dash out but is doable. Somebody did a post on that a few years back.

Note that the problem results from small amounts of water rusting happily away over the years. Large amounts disappear via the drains in the lower heater box. It's also worth checking them out to make sure they aren't full of rust or crud. You need to remove the side transmission carpets to see them properly.

Some Pics of mine
 

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1983 380SL, 2000 S430, 1991 420SEL (retired) - RHD
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Note that my pics have cardboard behind to stop o/spray. My heater box was out. BTW taking out the dash is a giant PITA.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
@Aussiemerc thank you! What Kind of bolt did you use on the new corner? That鈥檚 the one part of this fiberglass solve that I don鈥檛 fully understand how to do.
 

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1987 560SL (L.Tonk) [92,700 miles]
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I think the most important preventative measure one can take is to ensure water drains on either side of the heater blower compartment (right outside) are never clogged up. If I understood correctly this sort of damage occurs when thedrains get blocked, causeing water to overflow into the chamber where its trapped until it evaporates or becomes tin worm.
Is there a way to check the drains without removing the blower?
 

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'79 450SL, '04 CLK200 convertible; former A124, W210, A209.
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Basical
Is there a way to check the drains without removing the blower?
Just pour some water via each fresh air grill, and within a few seconds it should drip on the floor. If it doesn't than the drain is / are blocked and you'll need to unclog them, per rowdie's post / RD's picture.
 

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1983 380SL, 2000 S430, 1991 420SEL (retired) - RHD
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@Aussiemerc thank you! What Kind of bolt did you use on the new corner? That鈥檚 the one part of this fiberglass solve that I don鈥檛 fully understand how to do.
I glued a large washer to a normal pan headed bolt (both stainless) and fiber glassed it in place. Used the same thread size as those that were remaining.
 
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