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· Registered
1983 380SL, ivory/dk brown, 46k miles, dual roller timing chain. 1986 560SL, red/white, 190K mile.
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9,224 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
The heater blower fan in my 1986 560SL roars sometimes
on low speed but sounds fine at high speed.

Do you think its something loose, needs lubrication, out of balance?

Carl
 

· Premium Member
1984 380SL, 1973 450SLC
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2,177 Posts
You might want to take a look and see if you have something in your cage throwing it out of balance at lower speeds..

I would have a new cover gasket on hand when you do though...
 

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· Registered
1983 380SL, ivory/dk brown, 46k miles, dual roller timing chain. 1986 560SL, red/white, 190K mile.
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9,224 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Last week I removed the blower cover.
Looks pretty clean inside and the gasket looks like
it had been renewed not long ago.

Did not figure out how to completely remove the blower motor
and was concerned that I might break something not knowing the exact
removal procedure. So I buttoned it all back up. Need to go back in there
and do some more investigation.

Carl
 

· Premium Member
1983 380SL, 2000 S430, 1991 420SEL (retired) - RHD
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6,810 Posts
Four nuts on the corners allow removal of the unit, then a bunch of clips. Use penetrant as the bolts sometimes twist out of the scuttle. It's easy to bench test - it will always go at max speed. Be careful not to get anything caught by the fan blades- it's a powerful little motor.
 

· Registered
1983 380SL, ivory/dk brown, 46k miles, dual roller timing chain. 1986 560SL, red/white, 190K mile.
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9,224 Posts
Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Four nuts on the corners allow removal of the unit, then a bunch of clips. Use penetrant as the bolts sometimes twist out of the scuttle. It's easy to bench test - it will always go at max speed. Be careful not to get anything caught by the fan blades- it's a powerful little motor.
Is the electrical connection on the outside of the firewall?

Carl
 

· R/C107 Moderator
1986 560SL: '84 500SL: '84 280SL 5 speed: other 107s ALL SOLD
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32,794 Posts
The plug is on the outside. Unplug it and remove two screws (some used bolts). The connection is inside and remains connected to the pig tail that goes to the blower.
 

· Registered
'80 450SLC Afro RHD Ikonengold, '01 113 W638 'Liz Hurley'
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3,254 Posts
soft and intermittent grinding or roaring noise at low speed may come from blades gently touching the surrounds.
Motor body will slip and the whole motor/blades assembly will shift sidewise causing this problem.

Now that I went trough dissembling and reassembling, I'd rather go for a quick fix by just pushing it back.
 

· Premium Member
'72 350SL, '85 300D, '98 E320, '19 Subaru Outback (sold '14 GLK250)
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14,157 Posts
soft and intermittent grinding or roaring noise at low speed may come from blades gently touching the surrounds.
Motor body will slip and the whole motor/blades assembly will shift sidewise causing this problem.

Now that I went trough dissembling and reassembling, I'd rather go for a quick fix by just pushing it back.
My memory is failing me, but I think problem with mine was that the motor came loose. It is clamped between the two halves of the plastic casing. I got some new clips and did an epoxy repair which worked, but then Rowdie kindly sent me a replacement housing.

BTW, the blowers are not all the same. Early ones had metal cages, while later are plastic.

I know where cmoser is coming from. I took the cover off my blower compartment a few times - But how to dismantle everything wasn't obvious, so I closed it up again. I think I later found a very good write up here on BW that made removal a snap (oops bad choice of words - had several old brittle parts snap while disassembling!)
 

· Registered
1983 380SL, ivory/dk brown, 46k miles, dual roller timing chain. 1986 560SL, red/white, 190K mile.
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9,224 Posts
Discussion Starter · #11 ·
I hope its as simple as adjusting the motors fan blades and tightening it down.
It sure is a likely supposition as sometimes on low speed it is quiet other times
it roars.

Not easy bending over the engine and I can't see down inside well with the cover off.
BTW, can the hood be turned straight up 90 degrees like I have seen in some
videos of other Mercedes?

Carl
 

· Registered
1985 500SL + 2009 GLK (previous 250, 280SL, 230TE, 430 ML)
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1,032 Posts
There are some clips that can be removed at the end of hood arms that enables the hood to be positioned vertically.

Had similar symptoms with may car, turned out to be a worn bushing in the blower motor. A new motor is not expensive and Gluck Auf has written an excellent article in EGv107.
The blower assembly is not difficult to remove, but I would use lot of penetrating oil on the 4 corner nuts and not use a lot of force when undoing them. Don't ask me how I know they break easily !

Here is a picture of the motor showing the worn bushing.
 

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· Registered
1983 380SL, ivory/dk brown, 46k miles, dual roller timing chain. 1986 560SL, red/white, 190K mile.
Joined
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9,224 Posts
Discussion Starter · #13 · (Edited)
Do you mean the clips pointed out by green arrows in the attachment?

Is it easy to reattach?

Anyone have problems doing this on a 107SL?
Heaven forbid, I don't want to fork something up.

Sometimes this could be convenient.

Carl
 

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'72 350SL, '85 300D, '98 E320, '19 Subaru Outback (sold '14 GLK250)
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14,157 Posts
Do you mean the clips pointed out by green arrows in the attachment?

Is it easy to reattach?

Anyone have problems doing this on a 107SL?
Heaven forbid, I don't want to fork something up.

Sometimes this could be convenient.

Carl
I have an earlier SL, but on my 300D, I think all you have to do is hold the lever on driver side only as you raise the hood to vertical. Nothing needs to be removed. And definitely only one side. It should be in the owners manual, but I don't see it in my 72 manual. I should remember because I had my hood up that way on 300D all summer while working on car!

ADDED: Looks like different models have different set-ups. And it seems that 107s don;t have the hinge release that many other MB models do. Read this thread: http://www.benzworld.org/forums/r-c...aising-bonnet-hood-getting-more-engine-2.html
 

· Registered
1985 500SL + 2009 GLK (previous 250, 280SL, 230TE, 430 ML)
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1,032 Posts
Did it a while ago, and not sure I brought it all the way to vertical, but certainly enough to get all the space I needed. Recall I used a broomstick to hold it in position. Both clips were removed.

This is easy to test, protect the air intake grill and see how far it goes just before touching. Find a way to hold it in position.
 

· Premium Member
1984 380SL, 1973 450SLC
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2,177 Posts
You would have to cut a notch in the vents to allow the hood hinge to point up. I know there was a link on it, but I have to get off to dinner now. :)
 

· Premium Member
1983 380SL, 2000 S430, 1991 420SEL (retired) - RHD
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6,810 Posts
Mine goes vertical but you need to watch the grilles, one of mine just touches so I leave the hood a smidge lower. You'll need something to prop it up though as the springs are removed. I used a broomstick near the radiator propped under the catch.Find something stable to prop it against.

The only possible fork up is dropping it (the hood)on your head or dinging the grilles!
 

· Outstanding Contributor, Vintage Moderator
450slc5.0cab 280sl5sp 280se4.5 500seAMG +250seStkW108 350sl4spdX3 500secEuro 300sel5spd R+C107galore
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25,246 Posts
While waiting for parts to arrive to complete my job, I have my 1978 up to the point where the hinges hit the cowl vent panels. Having an aluminum hood seems to make this less of an effort.

I tied my grill (that I plan to replace, no fear of scratches) tied up to the rafters. It isn't vertical but I won't be banging my head on the hood or grill.

On my steel hood 1973, I wasn't able to get it as vertical and didn't feel as comfortable with the setup and just did my entire intake manifold and timing chain job with the hood in its normal position. I banged my head more than a few times, but never had too much trouble getting the blower motor in and out.
 

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