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Discussion Starter #1
......I didn't want to deal with repairing it. I don't know how to remove that corroded bleeder from caliper without risking damage to the inner threads. I ordered the two front calipers. $130 for both after core exchange.
I bought new pads, rotors, stainless steel brake lines and plenty of DOT4 brake fluid to flush all that old fluid out.
I saw the bleeder and yes, before I attempted to loosen I bathed it with Liquid Wrench for close to an hour. It didn't matter, the bleeder just sheared upon the application of loosening pressure.
 

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W124
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The problem with bleeders is that:
  • most people overtighten them
  • most people don't exercise them by bleeding their brakes or changing fluid frequently enough
  • bleeders are soft and hollow, making them even more weak compared to a bolt of the same size.
I don't have a lot of faith in penetrating oil. Some people feel better because it says "penetrating" on the label therefore it must be getting sucked past obstacles like dirt and rust and down and around all those tight threads rather than just running down onto the ground or all over the assembly.

FWIW, I use heat whenever I try to move a bleeder that I didn't tighten the last time it was used. The only time this failed me was recently on my son's VW GTI. The aluminum calipers just didn't want to let go of the bleeder and when the bleeder started moving, it took the aluminum threads with it. Dumb design if you ask me.

So use heat, and don't overtighten.
 

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W124 Moderator
86 190E 2.3L 16V, 2 95 320TE's, 02 S500
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In some circles...that heat is referred to as a "blue tip wrench"..Andy knows..

Good luck and make sure you have a pressure bleeder for the brakes. Correct bleed sequence is rr/lr/rf/lf.

Jayare

Sent from my XT1710-02 using Tapatalk
 

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'92 300TE 4matic 280,000miles, '92 300TE 4Matic 'Ice Blue Metalic' 101,000miles
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You're between a rock and a hard place now.....been down that road, wore the T-shirt. Heating and an extractor is all you can do at this point. DON'T break the extractor off in there as well.

And don't try to drill the broken nipple out...even with a left-hand bit. If you so much as TOUCH the surface where the nipple seats with the drill tip, it's toast.....will always leak/weep even with nice, new nipples.

I'm sure there is some kinda tool/tools that will chase out the threads and reform that seat, but I've never seen it.

Kevin
 

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Had this happen once when installing speed bleeders. Couldn't get the busted bit out the caliper with any of the implements I tried which included screw extractors and left hand drills. A friend invited me to come get one off his parts car which was same year and trim, but when I jacked up the car and removed the wheel it was a Bendix caliper while mine was Ate.

Luckily local yard had one that lasted about a year until I did brake upgrade a few months ago.
 

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'92 300TE 4matic 280,000miles, '92 300TE 4Matic 'Ice Blue Metalic' 101,000miles
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It's the heat that will make it work, if at all....it's too rust welded for the penetrating oil, bits and extractor alone.

Kevin
 

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W124
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If an extractor is going to be used, the ones that work best are the stubby type that screw into the broken piece until a shoulder on the extractor stops it from screwing in any further. The type of extractor that looks like a long tap with sharp pitched reverse threads are junk. They just break off creating a worse problem than you had before.
 

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1995 e320ce. 1993 230 TE. 1987 Kit car with 260e running gear.
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I use heat and plumbers flux, the self cleaning type, gets right in there better than any wd40 type oil.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
I thank you guys for the tips on extraction, etc. My new calipers (reman) arrived today. I'm going to let the re-builders who build the cores deal with all of that.
 

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2007 E220CDI, 1990 300E-24V, 1987 W124 3.6 AMG build 1993 E500 W124, 94 320CE, 1997 W140 S280
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FWIW the only way I have got sheared bleeder screws out before is by welding a nut on the top. The extreme heat helps with removal and the new nut gets enough purchase on the innards to break them loose
 

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2003 G500, 2000 SL500, 1995 E320 Cabriolet, 1980 TR8
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I thank you guys for the tips on extraction, etc. My new calipers (reman) arrived today. I'm going to let the re-builders who build the cores deal with all of that.
Hopefully they won't say a sheared off bleed nipple makes it a "non-rebuildable" core.
 

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FWIW the only way I have got sheared bleeder screws out before is by welding a nut on the top. The extreme heat helps with removal and the new nut gets enough purchase on the innards to break them loose
This works great. Did this on the broken head stud on my Ducati. Came right out!
 
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