While I'm no expert on biodiesel, I have run it in a Dodge w/ a Cummins engine. At one point I was looking to find an old Benz (W123) for the purposes of conversion to biodiesel and did some research into it.
From my understanding the W123 diesels could burn just about anything: WVO, SVO, kerosene, biodiesel, and blends of most of these. The 123s have bulletproof engines with minimal pollution controls that make them perfect candidates for this application. I have heard about people pouring Wesson cooking oil directly into the tank on their 123 with no problems at all.
The 124 diesels have much more stringent pollution control devices, trap filters, etc., on their engines when compared to the 123s. From what I have read the 124 engine is not a good candidate for SVO or WVO applications. It's not that the engine can't burn it, it's that the emissions control system doesn't know what to do with it. You would probably be OK burning a biodiesel blend, but I would start out with a blend that is more "diesel" than "bio" and slowly acclimate your car to it. This will allow you to measure the performance as you slowly acclimate your engine to this new fuel source.
Some things to look out for with Biodiesel:
Biodiesel is made by splitting the oil molecules into their two main components: glycerine and esters. The glycerine is the "waste" product and you burn the esters.
The esters present in the biodiesel act as a natural cleaning agent inside your fuel delivery system. They will erode any sediment buildup in your tank and fuel lines and eventually cause your fuel filter to become clogged. You'll probably want to start out with a new fuel filter before switching to biodiesel, but expect it to become clogged as well eventually. I went through 3 filters in the Dodge before I stopped experiencing problems. You've been running on dino diesel for a while so I would expect to have to change the filter a few times. Although it can be a PITA to keep changing the filter, ultimately it is good for the engine as it cleans it up.**
Second is that the esters don't agree with some rubber/plastic compounds that are used in fuel lines, gaskets, etc. They will eventually break over time. This is more likely with a higher concentration of "bio" and less "dino" in the tank. You'd probably be OK with your existing components if you stayed with a 20% blend or less of "bio", but if you plan of running a higher concentration of "bio" (as I imagine you would), then you may eventually want to have these lines, gaskets, etc. replaced with a different compound that is resistant to esters.
If I were you then I would google biodiesel. There are a few good forums for users/consumers who are running it in their cars, and there is alot of good knowledge out there from people who have been running on it for years. I have a friend who converted her VW TDI to bio and hasn't had any problems yet.
** There is also another product on the market called AutoRx that uses esters for engine cleaning. They recommend a treatment cycle by adding it to your oil to help clean out engine sludge and they have had some really good results from it.
From my understanding the W123 diesels could burn just about anything: WVO, SVO, kerosene, biodiesel, and blends of most of these. The 123s have bulletproof engines with minimal pollution controls that make them perfect candidates for this application. I have heard about people pouring Wesson cooking oil directly into the tank on their 123 with no problems at all.
The 124 diesels have much more stringent pollution control devices, trap filters, etc., on their engines when compared to the 123s. From what I have read the 124 engine is not a good candidate for SVO or WVO applications. It's not that the engine can't burn it, it's that the emissions control system doesn't know what to do with it. You would probably be OK burning a biodiesel blend, but I would start out with a blend that is more "diesel" than "bio" and slowly acclimate your car to it. This will allow you to measure the performance as you slowly acclimate your engine to this new fuel source.
Some things to look out for with Biodiesel:
Biodiesel is made by splitting the oil molecules into their two main components: glycerine and esters. The glycerine is the "waste" product and you burn the esters.
The esters present in the biodiesel act as a natural cleaning agent inside your fuel delivery system. They will erode any sediment buildup in your tank and fuel lines and eventually cause your fuel filter to become clogged. You'll probably want to start out with a new fuel filter before switching to biodiesel, but expect it to become clogged as well eventually. I went through 3 filters in the Dodge before I stopped experiencing problems. You've been running on dino diesel for a while so I would expect to have to change the filter a few times. Although it can be a PITA to keep changing the filter, ultimately it is good for the engine as it cleans it up.**
Second is that the esters don't agree with some rubber/plastic compounds that are used in fuel lines, gaskets, etc. They will eventually break over time. This is more likely with a higher concentration of "bio" and less "dino" in the tank. You'd probably be OK with your existing components if you stayed with a 20% blend or less of "bio", but if you plan of running a higher concentration of "bio" (as I imagine you would), then you may eventually want to have these lines, gaskets, etc. replaced with a different compound that is resistant to esters.
If I were you then I would google biodiesel. There are a few good forums for users/consumers who are running it in their cars, and there is alot of good knowledge out there from people who have been running on it for years. I have a friend who converted her VW TDI to bio and hasn't had any problems yet.
** There is also another product on the market called AutoRx that uses esters for engine cleaning. They recommend a treatment cycle by adding it to your oil to help clean out engine sludge and they have had some really good results from it.
