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BenzWorld UNIMOG statesman
Unimog 404.1 Diesel (sold :( )1995 LMTV 1078
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Discussion Starter #1
I've avoided bringing this up in here but I'm getting no where at Steel Soldiers. I got to move my home back about 20 feet. It's a log cabin on mobile home wheels at the moment. Its sitting 1/2 way over the property line. Ground is softish and the area is VERY wooded so that reduces many options for moving it. Used big back hoe to put it in but it could not push it any further. Was lifting the front tounge with the bucket and pushing it.

Got it in far as we could and thought it was far enough. Now I know different and have to move it ASAP or neighbor is going to raise more hell than I can afford. I suspect its wheels have settled in the softish ground too so it will be extra hard to get it rolling.

Open to suggestions.
 

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BenzWorld UNIMOG statesman
Unimog 404.1 Diesel (sold :( )1995 LMTV 1078
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5,857 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
Too many trees Skycrane Sikorsky could not move it without destroying it. Would be bashing it against trees like a pinball machine.

weight... hmmm... Im guessing .. around 25-35K lb? It's not fake log facade crap. Solid 6" squared log sides. 10x16 long + 4' porch + the steel 1/2 lenght singlwide mobilehome frame it sits on. Tandom axle and Wheels
 

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'76 1300L,HE351CW,H15P Winches,Konis,Hydraulics,All Gears,10mm Plungers,Aftercooler,Lots of Littles
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You need someone with a skidder. Look at the local loggers to help with this one.

C.
 

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U1450L DOKA
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I agree with the skidder idea, but if it is heavily wooded, maybe
you can use a number of the trees as an equalized anchor point and
then winch the thing over the line.
It depends on the size of the trees and the winch / giant come-along you might
have access to, but if the trees are large enough, and you are able to get your
slings at ground level, you might be able to go to 3-5 trees and get a solid
anchor.

If the trees are large enough and have straight trunks, you may have
rollers at hand...lose the trailer wheels if they are toast and use logs.

If by "Heavily Wooded " you mean covered with Mesquite, uh...forget everything I said.
 

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85' U1300L Holset Turbo VA A/C, 66' Propane 404.1 rock mog, 1975 416 Doka, G500, Volvo C303
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If the engine was ready in my 1300 I would bring it down while I am in Dallas for Christmas. Sorry. If you can wait a mo th or so I might be able to help.
 

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Non MB 1975 Volvo C304, 1958 Kramer U540, 1959 unimog Westfalia 411
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Bottle jacks to get planks under wheels big roller like culvert ,logs whatever to spread the footprint between frame and beams or planks on ground ground.Then block it as others stated to generate enormous pull. in the pic w/ the winches 2 x 10k I had a 580 Case for a anchoring we broke two buggies in half and damaged a 20,000lb PTO winch after days of effort, We won. after stitching some wounds in field as we had welder and materials 25 miles offroad. My old Cat would tow it on a couple beams and rollers you don't have enough junk in your yard. I could go over to my place and scrounge beams or sticks of guardrail and weld together a few car rims and you have a rail set.
 

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2015 Rubicon Unlimited (Let the shame be upon me!)
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That reminds me of this:

Construction Equipment FAIL - Epic Fail Funny Videos and Funny Pictures

Cat D6 or 7 pipeliner that should have never have been tipped over, goes for a donkey ride of the first order.

With enough rigging and tackle it shouldn't be too hard to get some serious pulling done, just need a lot of line to run around all the sheaves and a real solid anchor system. Any pictures of the situation? I know you have the ditch to contend with but it shouldn't be that bad.
 

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1987 416 Doka
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658 Posts
After bottle jacking, you can lay plywood or steel plate down under your wheels. We use sandtracks in a similar manner for the armored 5 ton's out in the sand, they work well to increase the overall footprint. Also, air down the tires (sounds counter-productive, but not with the plywood, etc) before trying to pull anything.

The snatch blocks create what is sometimes called a z-pull system, it just means you have your winch line running back and forth between the load and anchor point(s) several times (through snatch block attached on both ends), which reduces the overall load weight by mechanical advantage. I think it was addressed in an earlier post. Anyway, by setting one up, you can winch the house using a regular 9.5K winch attached to an anchored jeep. It works fantastic - just look at the Pyramids!
 

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2015 Rubicon Unlimited (Let the shame be upon me!)
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Bear in mind that as you increase mechanical advantage you decrease length of pull and thus speed of pull.

Elementary winching 101 for the benefit of those who come after:

single line from winch to load 1:1 advantage 1:1 line load
single pulley on load, line back to truck 2:1 advantage, 1:2 line load
single pulley on load, single pulley on truck 3:1 advantage, 1:3 line load

And so forth. The more lines you can pass between the winch and the load, the higher the advantage, the lower the load on any given bight and thus your equipment is doing much more efficient work but at a very slow rate and with a very large amount of line.

In this case it would be a fairly easy matter to pay out the winch cable and thread it through the sheaves and then back the truck up to take the slack out. Once the lines are unfouled you would then connect your anchor system to the truck and start the very slow cycle of pulling it then resetting the anchor after moving the winch back.
 

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'88 U-1300L, '70 406, '78 406, '78 416 project, '82 406, '57 404, '65 404, '70 404, '68 Haflinger.
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Mobile home frames are notoriously weak. They are built to barely get the house to the location, over reasonable ground. There's not much cross bracing either. If much force is applied, the structure might not take it. Even the tongue is made of lightweight beams, probably no thicker than 3/16 inch. (got two of them in the scrap pile for "parts".)

Best bet IMHO is to jack up the frame and get the wheels on something. Even a Hi-Lift jack would probably lift it corner by corner.

If there's a sawmill around, shop for some slabs....those first or second cuts off the log. Price is usually give-away. Lay them with roundest side down and build a board road. Then the pull will be easy.

That's said assuming cost is a priority. However, if outside help is permitted, a mobile home setup crew with a "house cat" (a little wire-controlled bulldozer) would do the job. Would probably still need the board road.
 

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BenzWorld UNIMOG statesman
Unimog 404.1 Diesel (sold :( )1995 LMTV 1078
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5,857 Posts
Discussion Starter #15
far as I know there is no logging in my part of TX. Not cause of rules.... but cause soil and climate do not support it. When clearing a lot to build; They just mow stuff down with a dozer, push it out of the way... cut it up and fill up a bin to take it to the local dump for that type of material.
 

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BenzWorld UNIMOG statesman
Unimog 404.1 Diesel (sold :( )1995 LMTV 1078
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5,857 Posts
Discussion Starter #16
images of pully's and load reducing
completely understand ACAD and others who mention using snatchblocks. Maybe I should rephrase my heading to include .... Need Mog or??? w/ Big winch &/or shiat load of Snatch Blocks, tree straps etc. have you prices snatch blocks lately? Can you rent those from tool places I wonder?
 

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ex-moglet u1700 (ex U1300L)
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Depending on what trees available for anchoring, several chain hoists would provide a lot of easily controllable pull with minimal gear. The length of pull may need extending with strops, or you could go with Tirfors instead, but all easily hireable I would think?
 

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Is there a way you can pull it? Pushing it would probably just push the tires deeper into the ground. I bet if you got a BIG cat dozer, you'd be able to pull it if you got the wheels out of the ground. Use jacks and put something under the tires to keep them from sinking.
 

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BenzWorld UNIMOG statesman
Unimog 404.1 Diesel (sold :( )1995 LMTV 1078
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5,857 Posts
Discussion Starter #19
Is there a way you can pull it? Pushing it would probably just push the tires deeper into the ground. I bet if you got a BIG cat dozer, you'd be able to pull it if you got the wheels out of the ground. Use jacks and put something under the tires to keep them from sinking.
That is my thoughts... cut some trees down so we can get behind it with something. There still is the toung up front to deal with though. Either make a ski out of a huge chunk of steel or have a backhoe use its bucket to lift the tounge off the ground and follow it back.
 

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Provided you take the time to jack it up and place the “wheels” on a suitable hard running surface then even at 35K lb will take surprisingly little pulling/pushing force to move, if there was the slightest descent in the direction you wish to move it I would be more concerned with gravity doing the job for you! as for any towing tongue just some steel channel and grease would do the trick to save it acting like a plough.

After all it would be better to spend a little time and some money preparing ~20ft of track way for the wheels to run on be it steel channel, timber or paving slabs.

You will be surprised what you can do with some timber or metal and some solid vegetable oil/lard

How about some photos so we can see!
 
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