Mercedes-Benz Forum banner

1 - 15 of 15 Posts

·
Registered
1982 300D,1986300E, 1991300TE AND GROWING
Joined
·
80 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
I HAVE A 1982 300D HAVE OWENED SINCE DECEMBER HAVE CHANGED OIL USED A MODERATE PRICED OIL IM AT ABOUT 2500 MILES RIGHT NOW. DONT HAVE ANY SERVICE HISTORY ON THIS CAR IT HAS 187000 MILES SHOWING. STARTS IN COLD OHIO WITH OUT PLUGING IN I HAVE HEARD ROTELLA WILL CUT DOWN ON ENGINE NOISE AND WEAR ANY HELP
 

·
Registered
1982 300D Turbo
Joined
·
457 Posts
Whatever oil you use make sure it says CI on the bottle, not SI. Some new oils are SI and CI all in one, but im just makin sure you know.
 

·
Registered
1991 300 SE
Joined
·
18,534 Posts
You need to undo your cap locks in Ohio…

You’re car’s just a baby, make sure you use an OEM filter:

http://www.benzworld.org/forums/forums/thread-view.asp?tid=1208326&posts=5&fid=10
 

·
Registered
1983 300 D turbo
Joined
·
303 Posts
Why an OEM filter? I thought the new aftermarket filters worked better, at least that is what I've been told.
Also, remember the post when we were talking about the oil type, synthetic versus dino? What do you think about me using synthetic oil? Remember, I have only 49000 miles, it does not leak, and she has always been maintained well (3000 mile oil changes with dino) and she is mainly a nice weather driver.
And since I am picking your mind for information, do you think green or red antifreeze for our old oil burners. Some guys swear by the green, but I guess the factory puts in the red. My 83 has always had the green, since I've had her, but I would change over if it would be for the best.
BTW, great picture of you (Mr. Russel Crowe) and that blonde [:D], it really made me LOL.
Thanks,
Lancer
 

·
Registered
81' 300SD, 82' 300D
Joined
·
4,021 Posts
You should change your coolant out to Zerex G05 or the MB brand coolant, which is orangish/yellowish. The green stuff is bad for the radiator.
-Joe
 

·
Registered
1991 300 SE
Joined
·
18,534 Posts
OEM as in Hengst, Mann, etc. I’m sure Mann, for example, does not make their filters the way they did 25 years ago, they have been improved; but they know the OM61X series of diesels and design their filters accordingly.

Synthetic is fine for a low (or high, for that matter) miles engine. I use dino because I like the idea of a fresh filter and oil every 3000 miles and that the soot and the micro metal is actually being flushed from the engine.

Joe is right about the coolant, it’s designed to work with aluminum, and I think that’s what the rads are made of. I do know that I must use MB coolant in my M117 alloy V8, the coolant was designed for those engines. Besides, it’s a peace of mind issue – use the MB coolant.

Yes, she is quite the Benz-Babe, isn’t she…
[;)][8D]
 

·
Registered
1980 240D
Joined
·
13 Posts
As I understand it most coolants nowdays are formulated to run with aluminum parts. Back in the old days of domestic iron blocks and heads this was an issue. Most vehicles today including domestic (if there is such a thing anymore with parts being made all over the world) have at the very least an aluminum water pump, most likey heads and even some blocks so all your premimum antifreezes are formulated to work with aluminum. It's more of an anti corrosion thing than anything else.
 

·
Registered
1985 Euro 300TD Turbo, 1983 Euro 300TD turbo, 1979 Euro 240TD and 1981 300D converted to euro.
Joined
·
2,700 Posts
Number one for the cali people out there if you have over 120k use Straight 40 Delo 400 not W15-40 that is crap and as for coolant how many of you have heard of Straight anitfreeze no water? Coz thats what i run and going over 100m/ph it doesnt get to hot. I have had the luck/blessing of know 2 old germans/americans that went to school in german at the factory in 1970 and had to do it all , interior ,glass wires engine you name it , sad to say though one is 90 and one is 60 and they both forget shit so i have to pick their heads slowly.
They have told me shit i would have never knew like the 219 model that was only made one year coz they borred the engines to 219 not 220... just shit like that ,but im still learning and they only dirve the diesels and they say Delo straight 40 is the cleanest and safest.

Any input i would love co this is how i treat my benz ,but some might have other input and they also said in the factory they use straight coolant.

ttyl all.
 

·
Registered
1984 300CD, 1983 240TD Euro
Joined
·
2,651 Posts
DieselKraut22 - 5/3/2005 12:11 PM

"as for coolant how many of you have heard of Straight anitfreeze no water? Coz thats what i run and going over 100m/ph it doesnt get to hot. I have had the luck/blessing of know 2 old germans/americans that went to school in german at the factory in 1970 and had to do it all , They have told me shit

they also said in the factory they use straight coolant."
I've always heard NOT to use 100% AF because...

The Prestone website say's;

Q: What is the best antifreeze/coolant concentration for a vehicle? Can I use 100% antifreeze?

"...we do not recommend more than 70% antifreeze. This would cause restriction of the heat transfer capabilities, corrosion protection, and freeze protection."

http://www.prestone.com/tips/page7.htm

Peak Antifreeze website say's;

"Why is it important to mix antifreeze with water?

Antifreeze contains chemicals that protect your engine against rust and corrosion, as well as freeze-up and boil over protection. Water is required to activate the chemicals in the inhibitor package. Furthermore, adding water to antifreeze actually increases the freeze-up and boil over protection provided. For example, a mix of 40% antifreeze and 60% water provides freeze-up protection down to -10°F and boil over protection up to 259°F. In comparison, a mix of 70% antifreeze and 30% water provides freeze-up protection down to -62°F and boil over protection up to 270°F. However, we do not recommend adding more than 70% antifreeze. This would limit the corrosion and freeze up protection and heat transfer capabilities of the antifreeze."

http://www.peakantifreeze.com/faq.html#A


[8D]
 

·
Registered
1985 Euro 300TD Turbo, 1983 Euro 300TD turbo, 1979 Euro 240TD and 1981 300D converted to euro.
Joined
·
2,700 Posts
I do not belive they are explaining everything about the prose and cons ,not to mention those are two companys and not every company has the same formula or people would not want to use MB over say napa brand.

If the factor in germany in 1977 said to put straight for the 1977 300d then thats what i will use ,not to add that i have never had such cool temps for my engine no matter the temp outside.

So i guess i will just use what works for me and id like to add that Cadillac used straight coolant in their diesel sedan way back when so it not just some old krauts being stuck in their ways.
 

·
Registered
2008 PT, 1998 neon--1965 VW 1200
Joined
·
2,533 Posts
hmm, question to add--

shlomo(240d) decided today that he wanted to heat up and i checked the radiator, the antifreeze was VERY green. i would almost say there is no water in it.

the needle isnt so accurate, i know, because it likes to creep up and then jump down, sometimes it jumps up. i was going about 75-80 running up and down alabamas rolling hills on the interstate and the gauge showed about 225 degrees. i didnt worry because the manual says it is normal for the engine to go to the red sometimes if you are going fast and/or drving on hills.

i clicked on the passengers heat and it next to immediately dropped.

im rambling...

is that normal? should i drain some coolant and add water?

as for oil, ive used rotella. seems ok to me!
 

·
Registered
1985 Euro 300TD Turbo, 1983 Euro 300TD turbo, 1979 Euro 240TD and 1981 300D converted to euro.
Joined
·
2,700 Posts
Rotella is fine....one of the very few good oils.
As for the heat how old is the termostat coz my 77 started doing the same thing when there was an air bubble under the thermo, and remember if it goes hot dont just turn it off coz it will just get hotter and make sure your auxilary fan works. I just know a lil from here and there ,but just dont let it get hot to much.
 

·
Registered
2008 PT, 1998 neon--1965 VW 1200
Joined
·
2,533 Posts
its never touched the red, generally as hot as it gets is to 1/3 of the last bar(1/3 of the top line on the gauge) and then generally just goes back down if i slow down.

the temperature seems to be directly related to engine speed if i go 80-83 it stays around the top bar, 70-75 it stays in the middle and if i go under 50, its a little above the short marker at the beginning of the gauge.

the temperatures are 200 degrees, 170 and 150 about! the gauge is in farenheit, not centigrade!
 

·
Registered
1985 Euro 300TD Turbo, 1983 Euro 300TD turbo, 1979 Euro 240TD and 1981 300D converted to euro.
Joined
·
2,700 Posts
Dude ,it sounds ok to me.
 
1 - 15 of 15 Posts
Top