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Discussion Starter #1
Changed out my transmission mount today!
I've been chasing down a slight vibration on deceleration and cruise at 60 to 70 mph. As the car is new to me Ive been doing things that needed doing first so the very slight vibration has not worried me too much.
Noticed a big improvement in idle vibration once i replace the engine mounts (which were high on my list) but all the other smaller vibrations remained. I was fairly convinced it was a bad u-joint in my drive shaft so was waiting for winter to pull the drive shaft and replace it but today as one of the last items on my long list of to do's I replaced the transmission mount.
Its like driving a new car - Hard to believe but all of my vibration problems are gone and the car is a smooth as butter to drive - best $30 and 20 minutes ever. I replaced what turned out to be the original mount with a new OEM Corteco mount.
If you have unknown driving vibration that can sometimes even be felt in the steering and everything else has failed to help, try replacing the transmission mount :D
cheers
Barri
 

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good to know. Mine vibrates when the temperature is cold and I am in D or R. It doesn't when in drive though. I'll try changing the Transmission mount to see if this will solve my problem.

PS. Before you changed the trans.mount, did you notice the vibration more when the temperature is cold or when at a stop light in D (drive)?
 

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If you have unknown driving vibration that can sometimes even be felt in the steering and everything else has failed to help, try replacing the transmission mount :D
cheers
Barri
Same thing worked for me, too.
Also check the front flex disc coupling on the driveshaft...
 

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Last night I discover some vibration on my gear shifter when I let the gas pedal go. I can stop it by holding the shifter with pulling it to the rear, but sounds like the transmission mount might be the problem since I replaced mounts over a year ago.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
PS. Before you changed the trans.mount, did you notice the vibration more when the temperature is cold or when at a stop light in D (drive)?
funnily enough yes, I found with mine the original one had collapsed and torn between the supports so when the car decelerated or even maintained a normal cruise speed the transmission must have been flopping up and down between the upper part of the mount and the lower however it would seem that once it got warmer and the rubber expanded slightly it would trap the cross bar in the lower portion of the mount (most of the wear was there) and this meant the transmission could not move as much. I cannot figure out why I could feel the vibration in the steering though as there is no obvious connection
from what I have read the uro mount is quite prone to early failure and the corteco was only $10 more so worth it in my view.
cheers
Barri
 

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How about adding your year and model to your i.d., it would help others to know if this problem might apply to their cars,
 

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Discussion Starter #7
funny - its in my signature in the first one but none of the others? its added to my user details now 2001 e320 wagon
cheers
barri
 

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To change the trans mount, did you have to buy a jack to do it? I have a ramp that I used to use to change oil in my civic. Can I put the car on the ramp to change the trans mount? How did you lift the car to change the mount?
 

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corteco mount is $25 at bmaparts. i find them cheaper than autohaus usually along with more choices in parts, and also their free shipping is usps airmail so it gets to me in a day or 2, while autohaus takes 1 week for ups ground shipping.
 

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Love this forum. At bmaparts the mount is 27.47, add 2 oil, 1 air filter for free shipping and LOLA5 code for 5% discount. :)
$54 and I am set for next 2 years.
Edit they added tax, but still good deal.
Same parts are 66.35 at autohousaz or 59.78 at bm
 

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Discussion Starter #13
To change the trans mount, did you have to buy a jack to do it? I have a ramp that I used to use to change oil in my civic. Can I put the car on the ramp to change the trans mount? How did you lift the car to change the mount?
I read the post that greg pointed out

http://www.benzworld.org/forums/w140-s-class/1431069-photo-diy-rear-engine-transmission-mount.html

ours is the same. I put the car up on jackstands - all 4 wheels up but you could do it on ramps. you need another jack to lift the transmission a few mm's. I didnt undo the cross brace, just undid the mount bolts through the brace, undid the 2 bolts holding the mount to the transmission, lifted 2 or 3 mm to get the old one out, had to lift another 10mm to get the new one in :D. then tightened the boltsback to 40nm torque. probably took less than 10 mins for the job and 10 mins to get the car jacked up and put it back down again.

I have never used bma parts - I'll give them a try from now on - thats a good price!
cheers
Barri
 

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I have replaced my transmission mount with Cortego and it only lasted about 4 months, replaced again with a Genuine Mercedes part and it's been good for a year now. Before putting in the Genuine part I compared the 2 and I could see that they were built differently, the stud through the mount was at different elevation and the rubber was a lot stiffer on the Genuine part.
I would suggest going with the Genuine part the difference is about $11.00.
 

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Can somebody who has done this recommend a jack/jack stand I can buy and use for this work? A link to a place to get one will be greatly appreciated. The jack that came with my MB is not trustworthy for this kind of jobs. Plus, the jack looks unstable at the moment.

I have a jack for my honda and a ramp but I'm no sure if this is enough to do the job.

Thanks.
 

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