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Discussion Starter #1
Please I need your help, my car won’t start when u slut and turn the key. The car delays before starting. What could be the issue.

Secondly a message popped up that I should check engine oil level at the next gas station. Any idea on these issues please?
 

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Hi, do you mean the car cranks long and doesn't start or cranks long and starts, doesn't crank at all but starts eventually after several tries, cranks severally then starts after several tries?


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Discussion Starter #3
It doesn’t crank at all. When u turn the key is silent but all the lights will come up. After several turning of the key it eventually start up. That’s what am suffering. So do u have anyone idea sir?
 

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Sorry for the late reply. There could be some electrical glitch, poor connection somewhere, maybe the DAS signal is implausible... And based on that...

1. Look at your battery connection, ensure its firm and clean the terminals and connectors with sandpaper, have someone look at the ground from battery to car and battery to starter. You don't need loose or weak connections.

2. I will advice you go for a scan of the following modules:

1. ECU
2. AAM
3. DAS
4. FSAM
5. RSAM

Look out for electrical shorts or logged drive authorization errors(they will appear as fault codes) If you have drive authorization errors and some shorts in these systems then it's time to look at electrical integrity, corrosion issues, water in some circuits, recent electrical work... Inspect your SAM areas carefully for traces of water entry...

Push fuses down firmly.




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Discussion Starter #5
Thanks. I will do all that but one funny thing is that, the car can start from the fuse box once the ignition is turned on. That’s what I have been using to start the car once it refuses to start.
Could it be the key has expired? In fact am just confuse bcus this car is just two months hold in my hand. I have not really enjoyed the car well before this issue came up.
 

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Sorry man... So essentially if u have the key turned to start position you can power up the purple cable from the starter and it runs... So drive authorization is good, key may not be defective. But between das and ECU there could be electrical issues so signal is not received in some cases.

Try to get the scans and update us here...


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In addition, in the meantime, if u have a savvy electrician, let them get heavy gauge cable and wire in a momentary switch you can use to start, it's very cool.

Tip: one single heavily insulated wire passed between the door and body, tap positive at the interior SAM, wire to the switch, turn key, push button and start.


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Discussion Starter #8
Is very unfortunate we don’t have good mechanics around here in Gombe. I don’t want the bad experience push me away from the car.
 

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Please I need your help, my car won’t start when u slut and turn the key. The car delays before starting. What could be the issue.

Secondly a message popped up that I should check engine oil level at the next gas station. Any idea on these issues please?
most likely a bad crank position sensor but run a scan OBII SCANER NOTE the codes but could also coil packs bad injectors until you scan never assume what's wrong i used it on my 2006 c230 sport and all i gave on mine was misfire on all cylinders instead of replacing parts i checked every coil pack were all good all injectors tested good i then proceeded to remove all the spark plugs since i just purchased the car found that every plus was loose and was not properly torqued down i then cleaned them cleaned the hole area and put them all back in and proper torque reinstalled the coil packs plug them in and then cleared the codes started it it started right up idled great no codes appeared called a shop they quoted me over a 1,000.00 to replace all the coil pack plus replace the spark plugs and then to replace the crank shaft position sensor and crank shat position sensors plus the camshaft magnet sensors for both heads hum i thought why would i pay them over $1,000.00 dollars for nothing i said i'll think about it even the crank shaft position sensor is not hard to replace you have to remove the air flow meter sensor and body to access it it takes both hands to get it out on line they are less than 20.00
 

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Is very unfortunate we don’t have good mechanics around here in Gombe. I don’t want the bad experience push me away from the car.
Ok, no worries, if I come across a w203 today, I will take a shot of the points you can use, if you're a bit comfy with wires, it's fairly easy. I'll put the cautionary points there as well; you don't want to fry anything, but it's not far from how you've been starting; now we are taking it into the car so it's convenient.


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to all people be careful when you think about servicing your automatic transmission on the 2006 and 2007 mercedes benz c230 sport they have no filler tube i looked for over 1 hour i called the dealer after my son drained the fluid through the filler tube they stated there is a special tool with a pump the fills the transmission back into the transmission through the drain plug and when the fluid level is obtained they pinch it and close the drain plug there is no other way to fill it back to proper level
 

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Discussion Starter #14
In addition, in the meantime, if u have a savvy electrician, let them get heavy gauge cable and wire in a momentary switch you can use to start, it's very cool.

Tip: one single heavily insulated wire passed between the door and body, tap positive at the interior SAM, wire to the switch, turn key, push button and start.


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That’s what am using for now. Is easier for me to start without opening of the bonnet. I had a scan yesterday from all indications, my brain box is faulty. So they said that was why my car won’t crank until after a while. They asked me to change the brain box but am still not satisfied. I want to ask, if the brain box is faulty can the car still start?
 

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Discussion Starter #15
most likely a bad crank position sensor but run a scan OBII SCANER NOTE the codes but could also coil packs bad injectors until you scan never assume what's wrong i used it on my 2006 c230 sport and all i gave on mine was misfire on all cylinders instead of replacing parts i checked every coil pack were all good all injectors tested good i then proceeded to remove all the spark plugs since i just purchased the car found that every plus was loose and was not properly torqued down i then cleaned them cleaned the hole area and put them all back in and proper torque reinstalled the coil packs plug them in and then cleared the codes started it it started right up idled great no codes appeared called a shop they quoted me over a 1,000.00 to replace all the coil pack plus replace the spark plugs and then to replace the crank shaft position sensor and crank shat position sensors plus the camshaft magnet sensors for both heads hum i thought why would i pay them over $1,000.00 dollars for nothing i said i'll think about it even the crank shaft position sensor is not hard to replace you have to remove the air flow meter sensor and body to access it it takes both hands to get it out on line they are less than 20.00

I am going to scan the car again bcus I wanna be sure, what’s the real problem. I personally suspect electrical problem but the mechanics are of the opinion that the brain box is bad.
 

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That’s what am using for now. Is easier for me to start without opening of the bonnet. I had a scan yesterday from all indications, my brain box is faulty. So they said that was why my car won’t crank until after a while. They asked me to change the brain box but am still not satisfied. I want to ask, if the brain box is faulty can the car still start?
Post scan results please. Summarily, if I'm correct. starting is between key/EIS DAS, immo/AAM, engine. If it's starts reliably every single time with the bypass button then the ECU I would say, is not faulty. But between the DAS ring and immo/AAM, there could be some electrical glitch, so that one fails sometimes.

The following systems should be scanned to get better insight:

1. ECU, also let them perform live data for drive authorization
2. AAM
3. Front SAM...

Let's see the results you have so far and any more you get.




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Hello Odumeke O,
Sorry to hear of your problems. Sounds like you have some good help with Noetico's hot wire technique! Man, id love to be with that guy on a joy riding binge. Pick the flashiest cars on the block, I remote signal disable alarm, give him 2 mins to hot wire the leads and we off!

Anyway back to reality...I had a similar issue and felt to jump in with my 2 cents just in case it is infact the case. I was vexxed and stressed why this intermittent problem occurred. Until one day I accidentally took my wifes set of keys and noticed it never appeared. Something to do with the chip/sensor location that can "disable" the start signal. Also happened with an ex gf...her keys got wet and car wont open/ alarm going all over the apt complex. Some guy came up, took off the batts, dried em out and the connection and voila, it worked.

I see you mentioned someone suggested the keys so I recommend you try the spare key..you DO have one right? If not, you better get one. I can imagine you in that hot iabadan heat popping the hood to hot wire my broda o.
Anyway let us know if that works

Good luck
 

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Discussion Starter #18
I have returned the car to my dealer to find a way to fix it. So I exchanged it with 230 kompressor. But I will also extend all the suggestions here to him. I appreciate u all for taking out time to share in my worries. God bless u all.
 

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Hmmm. Am back again, the deal between my dealer and I failed.
I think I got myself in a wrong MB, a car praised by all. Am beginning to doubt the reliability of MB. My car jerks a lot, a coil was changed and after a week it started again. This time around with battery alternator. The car is just out of my head. I feel like getting my self a Toyota and rest of all these troubles.
 

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Reality my friend is; MB is not that hard especially for a model like yours. The main problem is guessing fixes. MBs need you to be precise and know what you are fixing, that gap of knowledge especially with our local techs is what kills the MBs.

I have had mine for a little over 3 years this October and it's been great, my mechanics always say they don't see me do any work with them, the car just doesn't break down, I've beaten it crazy these 3 years and it still runs so smooth.

Where are you located?

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