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E420 1997
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757 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
I believe I have found the encoder! I have ordered one from Mouser and will let everyone know when it arrives and I get it installed. It was $1.69 plus $5 shipping.

Mouser #: 858-EN11-HSB1AQ15
Mfr. #: EN11-HSB1AQ15
Desc.: Encoders 11mm Rotary Incremental Encoder
 

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93 SL500, 95 SL320, 96 S320, 98 S500, 2002 E320 4Matic Wagon & A little 91 5.0 FORD Mustang
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Hey daddy,

Great find, If you do not mined, snap a few pictures of the part when it arrives, and post them here.

Thank you,

Martin
 

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97 E420
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17 Posts
Was looking around the forum and found a thread about squirting some contact cleaner into the volume control. It works. Got it at oriellys for $8

Pull the knob off. pull the plate that covers the volume control from the bottom. (did it with my fingernail. came right off). Spray some contact cleaner between the volume shaft and the body and turn the knob. place a paper towel under the shaft for drips. Do a couple of times and the volume is like new!

Took about 30 seconds
 

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1990 Mercedes-Benz 420 SEL(RIP),1997 Mercedes-Benz E420
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1,936 Posts
Was looking around the forum and found a thread about squirting some contact cleaner into the volume control. It works. Got it at oriellys for $8

Pull the knob off. pull the plate that covers the volume control from the bottom. (did it with my fingernail. came right off). Spray some contact cleaner between the volume shaft and the body and turn the knob. place a paper towel under the shaft for drips. Do a couple of times and the volume is like new!

Took about 30 seconds
I have some CRC electric cleaner laying around...I wanna try this out. Unplugging the battery as a precaution. Thanks for the tip.
 

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Premium Member
97 E-420 (180K miles), 97 SL500, (93K miles) 2015 GMC Sierra Denali 2500HD CC/SB/4x4 Duramax(55K)
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4,173 Posts
Was looking around the forum and found a thread about squirting some contact cleaner into the volume control. It works. Got it at oriellys for $8

Pull the knob off. pull the plate that covers the volume control from the bottom. (did it with my fingernail. came right off). Spray some contact cleaner between the volume shaft and the body and turn the knob. place a paper towel under the shaft for drips. Do a couple of times and the volume is like new!

Took about 30 seconds
yes, this works, but for me it was only temporary. a few months later it's back to it's old ways. I think a new encoder is probably the only sure fire solution.
 

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E420 1997
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757 Posts
Discussion Starter #6 (Edited)
It WORKS!

Finally got around to installing this and glad to say it works!

However, a couple things not ideal.

First, the shaft is 5 mm too long so the volume knob sticks out 5 mm more. This could be easily taken care of with a dremel.

Second, the volume works backwards. I will live with this but there may be a solution (although I'm not going to investigate signal "A" vs "B" lag/lead re-wiring at this time).

With that said, an ideal part number, if it existed, would be;

EN11-HSB3AQ10

per spec sheet;

http://www.mouser.com/ds/2/414/en11-6592.pdf

This would change the cw/ccw volume adjust and decrease shaft length by 5 mm.

I'm going to live with it because it works just fine changing the volume. But if I was to do it again, I might cut the shaft and figure out changing the "A" and "B" signal...which shouldn't be hard at all really...just not worth my time atm ;)

Here's some pics. Removing the radio is explained else where and not covered. Soldering skills are also not covered.

Ok, first here is the new and old (removed) encoder.



The top cover of the radio is just snapped in place, so just pop it off (no picture).

You have to significantly loosen this screw (red circled) on the bottom as it secures a ground spade lug to the front panel circuit board.





ATTENTION CARE MUST BE TAKING WHEN RE-INSTALLING THE FRONT PANEL TO MAKE SURE THE GROUND LUG IS SANDWICHED BETWEEN THE CASE AND FRAME.



Here is the front panel removed. It snaps in/out once the top cover is removed and bottom chassis screw is loosened. You then must remove the 3 torx screws and twist the mechanical tabs (circled red). The 7 black circles are the encoder which must be desoldered. Note the ground lug bottom middle I mentioned earlier.




New encoder installed.



ATTENTION CARE MUST BE TAKING WHEN RE-INSTALLING THE FRONT PANEL TO MAKE SURE THE GROUND LUG IS SANDWICHED BETWEEN THE CASE AND FRAME.

A very easy job actually and would be perfect if the exact encoder can be found. Hopefully this will help others and maybe someone can find the exact replacement.

Now to find a knob........(becker doesn't have them anymore and $35 on ebay!)
 

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93 SL500, 95 SL320, 96 S320, 98 S500, 2002 E320 4Matic Wagon & A little 91 5.0 FORD Mustang
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Daddy,

Thank you for the pictures. and the notes on it.

Martin
 

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E420 1997
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Discussion Starter #8
Thank you for the reference Raymond, it's still working perfect btw (albeit backwards).

By all means clean it first, I did but the consensus is it won't last, mine didn't.

If you're not handy with a soldering iron, you can send it off to several places to be fixed.

But if you have soldered much, it's really a piece of cake ;)

Happy Easter,
Ken
 

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1996 S500 Coupe, 1997 E300
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Updates to disassembly process

DDaddy - This is awesome! I hated to be held hostage to beckerradiorepair.com over a $2 part. Thx for posting the details on the encoder. I ordered one for each of my becker1492 radios. I also ordered a Bourns encoder to see if that might work as an alternative with proper directionality and stem length.

A few updates to your process.

1. The 8 "tabs" on the back of the faceplace electronic card do not need to be messed with - they secure the LCD frame. Only the 3 torx screws need to be removed.

2. To pull off the face place, it was easier after taking the 2 torx screws off the top front corners of the radio case so one can spread the case - the lock-tabs on the side were difficult to push in enough to allow the face place to come out easily.

3. With the confidence that a replacement encoder could be procurred, I took the top off the faulty encoder to see if I could clean & repair it. I cleaned it up and reassembled it and that solved the problem for now..but I have the replacement encoders as backup if it fails again soon. I wouldn't have taken this risk if I didn't have a backup plan.

Hats off to you my friend!
 

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E420 1997
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Discussion Starter #11 (Edited)
DDaddy - This is awesome! I hated to be held hostage to beckerradiorepair.com over a $2 part. Thx for posting the details on the encoder. I ordered one for each of my becker1492 radios. I also ordered a Bourns encoder to see if that might work as an alternative with proper directionality and stem length.

A few updates to your process.

1. The 8 "tabs" on the back of the faceplace electronic card do not need to be messed with - they secure the LCD frame. Only the 3 torx screws need to be removed.

2. To pull off the face place, it was easier after taking the 2 torx screws off the top front corners of the radio case so one can spread the case - the lock-tabs on the side were difficult to push in enough to allow the face place to come out easily.

3. With the confidence that a replacement encoder could be procurred, I took the top off the faulty encoder to see if I could clean & repair it. I cleaned it up and reassembled it and that solved the problem for now..but I have the replacement encoders as backup if it fails again soon. I wouldn't have taken this risk if I didn't have a backup plan.

Hats off to you my friend!
That's great about the 8 tabs, makes it even easier. Good about the case too but mine was easier since I've had it apart a few time (iphone mod and cleaned the encoder like you (lasted about a month btw and yes, took it apart and cleaned the wipers. I'm wondering if stabilant 22 or even dielectric grease would help. If you try it, let us know :)

And thank you for improving this long troubling problem :)

Oh, what part # Bourns did you order?
 

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1980 300SD, 1998 E320 Wagon, 1981 300TD, 2000 SL500, 2000 ML320
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This is so awesome! Thanks for this mod. I did this and the aux cable mod today. I lost the Bass Treble controls (pressing the button doesn't activate them) but everything else is fine. It's a fair trade since I have a nice aux in and functioning volume control.

I took the Dremel to the shaft and cut off a bit and it looks just like it used to.
 

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1997 SL500 70K Miles
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281 Posts
Took about three weeks to arrive, but it works - thank you :bowdown:

Dragonflyer, can you confirm that this encoder has the proper action (clockwise rotation results in radio getting louder)?

EDIT: Based on some research, the key to proper rotation (clockwise is louder) is to select a 30 detent 15 PPR (Pulse Per Revolution) style incremental pot. The existing pot on the radio has 30 stops in one full revolution. The problem with the original poster's pot is that the 20 PPR specification for it throws off the pulse reading circuit. Likewise, the one recommended by JRI has 20 PPR, so it will also not function properly either.

Problem is that the 15 PPR pots with 30 detents are not as readily available as the 20 PPR. Two pots that would work given these facts are at Mouser, EN-11HSM3BF25 (EN-11HSM3xxxx or EN-11HSB3xxxx would work if available, the key being the "3" for 30 detent and 15 PPR) and at Digikey, PEC11L-4215K-S0015. Shafts are not ideal for either, but again, hard to find. Spent a couple of hours tracking these down. The Digikey one is on order, will report results.
 

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1982 300SD, 1984 380SL, 1997 E320, 2008 R350
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Took about three weeks to arrive, but it works - thank you

Dragonflyer, can you confirm that this encoder has the proper action (clockwise rotation results in radio getting louder)?

It works. The rotation direction is correct. There are fewer detents than the original encoder and the shaft is only about two millimeters too long. It is not an identical replacement but it has worked flawlessly since the replacement.
 

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Used PEC11L-4215K-S0015 from Digikey. Other than the fact that the shaft was 6mm (vs the original 5mm), it is a drop in replacement. Shaft did not need trimming as to length, but the shaft diameter did. I used a forceps to hold the shaft while filing with a metal file to trim the shaft down to the proper diameter. Commonly available pots seem to be 6mm now, so you may have to do this no matter what pot is purchased. This one from Digikey is probably the best choice, unless you can find one of exact same dimensions with a 5mm shaft.

The pot install onto the pcb was not as smooth as expected, several traces came up, requiring remedial action. No big deal. Also, since you have the radio open, its a good time to repair the push button's broken tabs. Use superglue to hold broken tabs in place and then put a dap of plastic bonder epoxy on the back of every mounting tab (even the ones not broken yet). I've done this before with good results on other radios. These tabs will break eventually (some will be broken, you will see), so might as well be proactive and reinforce them.

All in all, good results. Nice to have a volume pot that doesn't frustrate and annoy.
 
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