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1973 416 Doka, 1978 416 Doka, 1980 416 Doka..... Help me, I can't stop buying them!!!
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Discussion Starter #1
coachgeo said:
It's my understanding that a large rim and tire is very hard to balance and the balance can change so easily due to rubber loss, and many other factors. So adding more unbalance elements to an already easy to unbalance situation is not good.
Coachgeo,
Here is what you need to solve your tire balance problems.
http://www.innovativebalancing.com/
I use this product in my mogs and it makes a world of a difference on the road. Off road who cares if its balanced, you can't tell anyway. But once you pull back on to the road your tires are balanced again!
 

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BenzWorld UNIMOG statesman
Unimog 404.1 Diesel (sold :( )1995 LMTV 1078
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5,857 Posts
VON said:
Coachgeo,
Here is what you need to solve your tire balance problems.
Tire Balancing Products...!
Yeah I like their product and am a firm believer in the concept. The do it yourselfers use airsoft BB's to get the same results for less.

For me I "may" not be able to use this type of product with Staun beadlocks though. Welll... maybe NEW IDEA just hit me..... if I used these inside the Staun innertube instead of the tire.... hmmmmm??? Damn that might work. Not as effective of a balancer since this would NOT put the beads on the outer most portion inside the tire. Staun's diameter is ruffly the same as that of the Rim you run them on.

Problem I see if beads are in the tire is some could get caught between Staun Cover and rim and wear thru this expensive material. Or they could get down into the passageway where air flows from tire valve steam past the staun for inflate and deflating of tire. This passagway is crucial cause without it you have to deflate staun completely to change tire pressure.
 

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'78 Mog 416.141 DoKa
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3,420 Posts
VON said:
Coachgeo,
Here is what you need to solve your tire balance problems.
Von, how much are you using per tire ? The recommended 14 oz's ??
 

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1973 416 Doka, 1978 416 Doka, 1980 416 Doka..... Help me, I can't stop buying them!!!
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2,643 Posts
Discussion Starter #4
Mogasaurus said:
Von, how much are you using per tire ? The recommended 14 oz's ??
I will have to look and see, I have some in the shop ready to go. Its ether 12 or 14 oz's. I can't remember which.
 

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1991 1250L Doka Unimog, 2002 ML320
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1,220 Posts
Howdy All,
I use Dynabeads for balancing my tires (365/80/20 mpt81's) and even when they have rocks stuck between the siping they balance out. It's also dynamic as the tread wears the balance does also. Sometimes on start up after the truck has set for awhile it's lumpy but then smooths out. I would think if enough media is placed in the tire it could compensate for the stem guards(with in reason). Have a nice day all.
Chas

OOps,
I just read the post from Von about BB's balancing and that's the same product I used.
Chas
 

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BenzWorld UNIMOG statesman
Unimog 404.1 Diesel (sold :( )1995 LMTV 1078
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5,857 Posts
Dynabead just responded to my question about the best way to use their product along with Staun Bead locks. There reply was that many using Stauns are user of their product and to install their product so that they sit in the same location as if the Staun was not installed. AKA install it in the bottom of the tire against the inner wall of tread.

That is good news to me.
 

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1963 Swiss 404
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181 Posts
Do any of you who are using this product have tube-type tires? I'm about to install new bias ply 10.5x20 Mil tires on some newly powdercoated rims, with new tubes. I have 12 oz of this product ready for each wheel, including the kit pieces for inserting the beads through the valve stem. I want to avoid putting the 'normal' wheel weights required for bias tires on these newly minted rims. BTW, the local tire shop who is going to do the mounting casually mentioned that I would not be able "to repair the tube in the future" [??].
 

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BenzWorld UNIMOG statesman
Unimog 404.1 Diesel (sold :( )1995 LMTV 1078
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5,857 Posts
BK Sadler said:
Do any of you who are using this product have tube-type tires? I'm about to install new bias ply 10.5x20 Mil tires on some newly powdercoated rims, with new tubes. I have 12 oz of this product ready for each wheel, including the kit pieces for inserting the beads through the valve stem. I want to avoid putting the 'normal' wheel weights required for bias tires on these newly minted rims. BTW, the local tire shop who is going to do the mounting casually mentioned that I would not be able "to repair the tube in the future" [??].
According to one of the websites.... I forget which but I think it was Dynabeads... you can use it in a tube w/out problem. As to not repair tube.... I call BUNK. Just hold up tube so all beads roll away from the area to be patched. tie off the tube so beads stay in one area away from repair and then repair tube like normal, LET DRY COMPLETELY?? before releasing beads back thru out the tube (so they dont stick to the patch)
 

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i've been using 1500 or so real BB's in each 35" SSR on Trail Ready beadlocks on my D90 for over a year now. can roll along at 70mph just fine... not as good as perfectly balance lead weights... but good enough for me. I ran a 1500 mile road trip last summer on them. Just a little maracca sound when rolling to a stop.
 

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1963 Swiss 404
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Thanks for the feedback. I will proceed with the Dyna Beads in the new tubes for the bias ply tires and post some news when I can. These are my second set of wheels/tires -- I run MPT 80's on the first set -- so, it may be a month or so.
 

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78 406
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I use a product called Equal in my 14X20's and at about 40mph it smooths right out. You can just throw a bag of the stuff in the tire or, with a special tool I have you can inject it through the valve. The real key to it working is it must be dry. They sell a special dryer to use when filling the tires. I carry it with me to air up after wheeling.
 

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'78 Mog 416.141 DoKa
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graphic66 said:
I use a product called Equal in my 14X20's and at about 40mph it smooths right out. You can just throw a bag of the stuff in the tire or, with a special tool I have you can inject it through the valve. The real key to it working is it must be dry. They sell a special dryer to use when filling the tires. I carry it with me to air up after wheeling.
Equal is a good product, except for the moisture problems. Not a problem in dry areas but you're going to fighting a loosing battle in the Pac NW or other damp areas.

The ceramic bead compounds are a logical progression.
 
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