[mikeym]

Following LCG's advise, I had the shop do a load test on the battery on the E420 and it turns out to be a bad battery. It is a MB branded battery.
What ya folks recommend for a replacement? Looks like a Group 49 battery with 100Ah spec. On my cayenne, there was a hose to attach to the battery for venting but don't see anything on the E420.

I am getting code 10 on the car which indicates low/high voltage on MAF. I am establishing the electrical baseline before tackling MAF and hence, battery and ceramic fuses are first.

Thx

 

[sbaert]

Bosch, Interstate, and OE MB batteries are all top picks.

The Bosch tends to be the best price and comes with free roadside assistance if you need a jump.

The OE MB tends to have the longest longevity.

 

[mikeym]

Bosch, Interstate, and OE MB batteries are all top picks.

The Bosch tends to be the best price and comes with free roadside assistance if you need a jump.

The OE MB tends to have the longest longevity.

Thanks Steve.
Who is the maker of OE MB batteries?
Do these batteries need to be venter because they are in the trunk?

 

[260e crusier]

Thanks Steve.
Who is the maker of OE MB batteries?
Do these batteries need to be vented because they are in the trunk?

Mercedes OE batteries are made by Varta which is owned by Johnson Control. All of my Vartas lasted 13 years+.

Yes, the battery should be vented. If you look at the ends near the top, there should be a hole on each side. They are usually capped (but not always) on new batteries. Plug one and attach the vent tube to the side you need it on. There should be a vent hole on the bottom of the trunk near the battery.

 

[chuckh0308]

5 years ago when I needed a new one I put in a Duralast Platinum AGM from AutoZone, which I believe is made by Johnson Controls. Granted, it has only been five years, but I have been pretty hard on it and it has been great. FWIW. I used to like Interstate batteries, but that is what was in the car before and it wasn't that old when it crapped out.

 

[JC220]

AGM batteries are my preference now also. The main reason being they are 100% sealed so no more acid attacked / rusted out battery trays.

My 500E is getting a new AGM battery very soon (To replace the almost new lead acid battery) as I have just repaired minor rust under the battery tray in the trunk.

 

[sbaert]

^This. AGM is almost a must, especially if your car is a diesel where vibration is a constant factor.

FWIWm I just replaced the battery on my motorcycle with a lithium ion unit. Twice the price as a standard lead acid unit, but it weighs only 1/4 as much.

I can only imagine how much of a weight savings that would be on a DIN100Ah unit as used in a W124

 

[sbaert]

Looks like they already make lithium ions in a Din100 size, but the price is a bit steep at over $1000US.

On the other hand, 1500CCA is something any W124 will love.

https://www.bigrig4x4.com.au/produc...-din100-lifepo4-lithium-ion-battery-lfp100-20

 

[sbaert]

Here is some good knowledgebase info re. lithium ion batts

https://www.easyparts.nl/documentation/3768/SHIDO_NL.pdf

 

[260e crusier]

5 years ago when I needed a new one I put in a Duralast Platinum AGM from AutoZone, which I believe is made by Johnson Controls. Granted, it has only been five years, but I have been pretty hard on it and it has been great. FWIW. I used to like Interstate batteries, but that is what was in the car before and it wasn't that old when it crapped out.

There are only a handful of auto battery manufacturers in the world today. One of the major player is Johnson Control which is one of the providers for Interstate.

 

[sbaert]

Yeah, the battery game can get confusing at times.

Example: If you buy a Bosch automotive battery in the US, it is made by Exide in Mexico. But if you buy the identical sized Bosch battery in Europe, it is made by Johnson controls.

In fact, it looks identical to the Varta unit except for the labeling.

In addition, in Europe Bosch sells at least 3 or 4 different battery quality grades while in the US you usually only have 1 choice with AGM as an option in certain cases.

http://be.bosch-automotive.com/en_GB/parts_and_accessories_5/service_parts_3/batteries_5/batteries_5

 

[tjts1]

Ever since the exide plant in LA got shut down for polluting an entire neighborhood with lead, every battery you can buy on the west coast is made in the same 2 factories in Mexico. All the brands you can buy in a store are just labelers. No brand will ship a heavy low margin battery cross country, it's not profitable. If you want to buy a "good" battery the only way to find it is by weight. Most retailers will list the battery weight on their website. A group 49 battery can range from 45-60+ lbs. More weight = more lead. It's as simple as that.

 

[tuttebenne]

If you go for a conventional battery I second the suggestion to go OEM. I have good service from all of the ones I have purchased and they are very price competitive at the dealer parts department with others on the market.

 

[hamada128]

I have a Walmart Everstart MAXX battery (also made by JC) that I installed 6.5 years ago and still performing well.

 

[LeftCoastGeek]

I've been having good luck with Deka Gold batteries, including the ones rebranded by BatteriesPlus as 'Duracell'

 

[mikeym]

Thanks folks. I found a working 110ah AGM battery. I assume 110 is ok to use? The owners manual lists the spec at 100ah


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[LeftCoastGeek]

the main spec I always see for car batteries is CCA, cold cranking amps. hardly noone specs A*H (Amp*Hours) for batteries intended for starter purposes, that spec is used for standby power batteries, such as are used for UPS systems and such. The battery for sure should be a group 48, I think group 49 fit too (and were used in diesels).

 

[partnumber187]

AGM batteries are my preference now also. The main reason being they are 100% sealed so no more acid attacked / rusted out battery trays.

My 500E is getting a new AGM battery very soon (To replace the almost new lead acid battery) as I have just repaired minor rust under the battery tray in the trunk.

Just did this the other day and put in a new battery tray.

Luckily this car had a one year old Duralast Platinum AGM when I bought it. It's an H7, while H6 is spec'd, but it fits. This is in a W201, but the tray is same as W124.

 

[Real1shepherd]

Battery threads are like oil threads....almost.

I use only John Deere "Strongbox" tractor batteries. The big one in the estate barely fits in place. I've posted pics of it before. Don't remember how old it is now....put distilled water in it maybe once a yr.....forgetaboutit.

I have no idea where they are made, but if you know anything about farmers they don't tolerate mediocre batteries in big tractors.

Kevin

 

[mikeym]

the main spec I always see for car batteries is CCA, cold cranking amps. hardly noone specs A*H (Amp*Hours) for batteries intended for starter purposes, that spec is used for standby power batteries, such as are used for UPS systems and such. The battery for sure should be a group 48, I think group 49 fit too (and were used in diesels).

The owner's manual states 100Ah for the battery, does not say anything about CCA.
Had a year old Porsche Cayenne Group 49 AGM battery that tested good. It is rated at 110Ah and I used it in the car today. Everything seems to be work except for the bolt and plate that hold battery to the try because battery is too long. For now, it is good. Will swap out with a proper battery after I have chased MAF issue.