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ml500 w163 2002
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odb ii codes

OBD-II Codes

there's a list above on the p0221 codes. basically all the codes must be the same. If you can find the actually p0221 code on the MB source you have that would be great :)
 

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You are misreading that PDF. Code listed there is P203C not P0203. You are also overestimating abilities of generic OBDII scanners. Generic code pool is to small to accommodate modern cars so MB specific codes get remapped. Problem in not MB specific.

On Boxster generic scanner pulls code P1128 and lists it as "Rear oxygen sensors swapped" while Porsche specific scanner desribes it as "S1B1 trim at limit"

Unless you have full body scan done with MB specific scanner you will not know what got remapped to P0221.
 

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02 ML320 06 ML500
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RUEY220, please understand that what I had previously posted is for generic code P0221 and to the left of that number is the corresponding manufacturer's code P203 B&C, which will always prevail. Note that manufacturer codes do not have a "zero" before their codes.

Examples: 1. If M/B extracts codes with their scanner and P0300 (random misfire) is revealed, that will be the code that they work with because there is no corresponding manufacturer code to trump it.

2. Then there are manufacturer codes which are proprietary and have no corresponding generic codes. Therefore they can only be extracted using their software.

Always remember that a generic scanner will only put you in the general vicinity of the problem, but it is up to the individual to decipher the information. Because a scanner says code P0221 TPS, that does not mean that the TPS is faulty and must be changed. There are so many variables that come into play that effect the proper operation of components. This is why many members and mechanics alike, become purblind when it comes to code reading, and as in your case, the TPS replacement did not solve the problem.
 

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ml500 w163 2002
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RUEY220, please understand that what I had previously posted is for generic code P0221 and to the left of that number is the corresponding manufacturer's code P203 B&C, which will always prevail. Note that manufacturer codes do not have a "zero" before their codes.

Examples: 1. If M/B extracts codes with their scanner and P0300 (random misfire) is revealed, that will be the code that they work with because there is no corresponding manufacturer code to trump it.

2. Then there are manufacturer codes which are proprietary and have no corresponding generic codes. Therefore they can only be extracted using their software.

Always remember that a generic scanner will only put you in the general vicinity of the problem, but it is up to the individual to decipher the information. Because a scanner says code P0221 TPS, that does not mean that the TPS is faulty and must be changed. There are so many variables that come into play that effect the proper operation of components. This is why many members and mechanics alike, become purblind when it comes to code reading, and as in your case, the TPS replacement did not solve the problem.
yes i learned that the hard way about the TPS, my mechanic didn't even mention to me there was something mapped by Mercedes on the back end. However I still think that perhaps the TPS circuit issue was caused due to the ESP being set off while the sensor monitoring if the TPS is working failed.

The problem I have appears to have been fixed by changing the lateral acceleration sensor, from what I think p0221 was coming on when the ESP was applied although it really didn't warrant to be setoff. The throttle was being closed to drop engine speed on what it thought to be a slip (lateral accel was not being registered while car was actually infact moving forward and accelerating), and I kept the pedal down while the ESP had closed the throttle maybe?
 

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'99 ML430, '12 Silverado
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Reviving this thread since this has started happening to my truck. It stalls sometimes when I come to a complete stop - usually the first one or two stops after I start it up after sitting overnight or all day, and after the engine has started to heat up - in other words, not when it's dead cold nor when it's fully warmed up. It's done that pretty consistently the last three or four days.

Today for the first time, after one of these stalls (and key out/key in restart), the BAS/ESP light came on and it lost power. We had a huge snowstorm Monday and Tuesday and I've been driving on snowpacked/icy roads. I'm wondering if these road conditions could cause this to happen?
 

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I think maybe road conditions do have something to do with this - since the snow/ice was cleared off the roads, this has stopped happening.
 

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2002 ML55 AMG, 2005 Chrysler Crossfire Coupe Limited, 1999 C280
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Reviving this thread since this has started happening to my truck. It stalls sometimes when I come to a complete stop - usually the first one or two stops after I start it up after sitting overnight or all day, and after the engine has started to heat up - in other words, not when it's dead cold nor when it's fully warmed up. It's done that pretty consistently the last three or four days.

Today for the first time, after one of these stalls (and key out/key in restart), the BAS/ESP light came on and it lost power. We had a huge snowstorm Monday and Tuesday and I've been driving on snowpacked/icy roads. I'm wondering if these road conditions could cause this to happen?
Hello MsPPH,

How is your battery?

Low power voltage makes these trucks do some strange things.:)
 

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Hmmn, I did have defrosters and seat heaters on all times it happened.

But........I think it might also have something to do with how rough the roads were - they were so unevenly cleared that my fillings were getting rattled out. And all the stalls happened right as I bounced to a particularly rough stop.

The ice/snow melted off over the weekend, and it's once again just as cold, but the roads are now dry and smooth.......and both things have stopped happening.
 

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Hmmn, I did have defrosters and seat heaters on all times it happened.

But........I think it might also have something to do with how rough the roads were -
they were so unevenly cleared that my fillings were getting rattled out. And all the stalls happened right as I bounced to a particularly rough stop.

The ice/snow melted off over the weekend, and it's once again just as cold, but the roads are now dry and smooth.......and both things have stopped happening.
Have you checked your shocks ?
 

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Stalling and BAS/ESP light

I suggest replace the brake switch, fixed one of the problems with BAS/ESP light.
Also, I replaced the crankshaft sensor and it fixed the stalling problem.
The stalling would generally occur when the car got warm.
Brake switch is quite easy to replace.
The crankshaft sensor was a little difficult as it is the rear of the engine.
This is for my 2000 ML55 AMG, i am assuming this is a typical ML problem.
 

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Have you checked your shocks ?
They're fine on normal rough roads (I live on a dirt road). After this storm, the (paved) roads were like driving over the worst potholes you could imagine. Or moon craters. :)

Anyway, it's stopped doing it now. But I'll keep that brake switch in mind if it starts up again.
 

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........I think it might also have something to do with how rough the roads were - they were so unevenly cleared that my fillings were getting rattled out. And all the stalls happened right as I bounced to a particularly rough stop. .....
Hmmm...Now you say that it makes me wonder how securely fastened your battery terminal connections are.

Also it may be worthwhile checking your starter cable connection.

Just a hunch.:)
 

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Hi Guys,

Dont know if you came right, but my 2002 ML55 F/L gave the same problems. Sometimes when my car gets warm and I floor it, it cuts out the engine and the BAS/ESP lights come on...

After taking it for a service a while ago (NOT at Mercedes), explaining the symtoms and testing the car, they figured out my car was running lean.

The reason was beacuse of the vacuum pipe that manages the manifold flaps, that was old and cracked. After they replaced it, I gained about 50 hp and all my troubles was gone.

Hope it helps.
 

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Hmmm...Now you say that it makes me wonder how securely fastened your battery terminal connections are.

Also it may be worthwhile checking your starter cable connection.

Just a hunch.:)
Good idea - I'll take a look at that!
 

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ml500 w163 2002
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Hi Guys,

Dont know if you came right, but my 2002 ML55 F/L gave the same problems. Sometimes when my car gets warm and I floor it, it cuts out the engine and the BAS/ESP lights come on...

After taking it for a service a while ago (NOT at Mercedes), explaining the symtoms and testing the car, they figured out my car was running lean.

The reason was beacuse of the vacuum pipe that manages the manifold flaps, that was old and cracked. After they replaced it, I gained about 50 hp and all my troubles was gone.

Hope it helps.
sounds like i have a similar problem on my ML55. Do you recall if you had any BAS/ESP light or check engine light on when this happened? Also, was your problem that the gas pedal would not respond at all?

Thanks
 

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Hi RUEY220,

Yip that was exactly what happened. I overslept and was late for work, so I was driving my ML55 a bit hard that morning. During an overtaking, I just lost complete power, but the car didnt cut out. It felt like the gas pedal cable stripped, and the BAS/ESP lights came on. For a split second I thought I stripped the gear box :)

Luckily with these ML's there is a few things a quick restart cant fix, and I carried on driving to work. MUCH slower (and confused) though.

I did have two earlier instances where the Engine Management light came on (no BAS/ESP) when 'flooring' it at sea level. I live at 1650 meters above sea level (where the air is much thinner). It came on due to a missfire on some of the pistons, but Mercedes Benz didnt know what caused it. After the service and replacement of the 'manifold vacuum pipe' at the other guys, the technicians claimed it will also fix my misfire problem as this little pipe manages the air mixure in the exhaust.

Let me know if it fixed your problem as well..
Hope you win!
Regards
 

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driving a ML430 2001.

whenever i try to drive the car hard i.e. floor the car, step on the gas hard. and try to accelerate faster

my car stalls and the bas/esp light comes on.

if i restart the car. all is normal and i can drive until i try to drive the car hard.

any idea why this is happening? and how can i fix it.

it is a real safety hazard. especially while merging. plus it is also very embarrassing.
My first time on this site.nearly got killed yesterday on my way to capetown.at a 140kph the brakes unintensionaly locked up and steered the car straight infront of oncoming traffic.by the grace of God i escaped this accident.who can i speak to or to who do i report this.it is really lif threatning.thanks.
 

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In the states we report it to the NTSB National Transportation Safety Board not that they will do anything.


Other wise call your dealer or Benz customer service. But unless there is a recall MB will say it’s age of car and things fail.
 

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The crankshaft position sensor inevitably going bad also causes these same cutting out symptoms (every 50,000km for me) but I think it throws a different light ( I could be wrong). The crank position sensor is a really cheap part and will go bad eventually so you could try replacing it just in case. It takes about 2 hours and you need a particular small 12 point socket and a bunch of 1/4 wobble extensions to get to it. It requires removing the driver's side fender well and going in from the top side of the engine bay.
 
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