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97 SL500, 98 E320 Wagon, 2002 ML500 - former W108/W112/W114/W123/W124/W126/W140/W220
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Discussion Starter #21
Stable power supply is the key. No dips on startup, no alternator going over 15V trying to recharge the brick.
Absolutely. I suspect I had a shorted or intermittently shorted cell in the old battery. It had sat in the car for over a year unused, so it was no doubt heavily sulfated. I used a "recovery" charger on it for a length of time, which probably knocked some of the crud off the plates, which then fell off and shorted them.

At least that's my hypothesis. The FLAPS battery tester just said it was bad, but I know my FLAPS guy well and I accused him of the tester always saying that no matter what the battery's condition so they could sell new batteries....

Dan
 

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97 SL500, 98 E320 Wagon, 2002 ML500 - former W108/W112/W114/W123/W124/W126/W140/W220
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Discussion Starter #22
The fun continues....

Drive the ML to pick up my dry cleaning, about a 10 mile round trip on surface streets. About three miles from home I get the mega alert - BAS/ESP/ETS/ABS and Brake along with the peeping.

Grrr.

Toss it on the DAS as soon as I get home and dump codes.

C1140 - 10 - Steering angle sensor (expected)
C1306-16 - Solenoid valve RR (seen this before, too)

New one:

C1025 - ABS signals not available

Hmm. I cleared them and all is well again, but for who knows how long?

Some random thoughts:

1.) While I'm doing the driver's side motor mount and spark plugs today I'll pop the ABS controller connector off the controller and hose it down with contact cleaner. No indication of any moisture from the remains of the original windshield washer reservoir, but who knows?

2.) One thing I don't understand when this occurs: Why am I getting a "Brake" warning light? Is this from the valve code? Both the brake fluid level sender and emergency brake position switches are disconnected at present to eliminate them from the issue. I didn't think there were any other issues that would cause the Brake warning light to go off?

3.) I have a set of brushes for the ABS pump. With 195k on the clock and being that I'll be in the neighborhood with the motor mount replacement I'm wondering if I should pop the motor off the ABS unit and see if it needs brushes? Cheap insurance.

Sigh. I seem to make progress then fall back....

Dan
 

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Absolutely. I suspect I had a shorted or intermittently shorted cell in the old battery. It had sat in the car for over a year unused, so it was no doubt heavily sulfated. I used a "recovery" charger on it for a length of time, which probably knocked some of the crud off the plates, which then fell off and shorted them.

At least that's my hypothesis. The FLAPS battery tester just said it was bad, but I know my FLAPS guy well and I accused him of the tester always saying that no matter what the battery's condition so they could sell new batteries....

Dan
You have enough vehicles to justify your own battery tester. I have https://www.amazon.com/Midtronics-PBT300-Battery-Charging-Starting/dp/B000K38UN6/ref=sr_1_3?crid=2MGKZYYZAV8M6&keywords=midtronics+battery+tester&qid=1559392483&s=gateway&sprefix=midtronix%2Caps%2C168&sr=8-3-spell tester that will hit the trash soon. Volt meter in it drifted down 0.5 V. Result is any battery tested shows "Recharge and retest".

Replaced it with el cheapo BA101 that works like a champ. All my vehicles have battery monitors installed.



 

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1.) While I'm doing the driver's side motor mount and spark plugs today I'll pop the ABS controller connector off the controller and hose it down with contact cleaner. No indication of any moisture from the remains of the original windshield washer reservoir, but who knows?
While you in that area check for washer reservoir chafing on brake lines below it. Another problem is steel braided fuel line that feeds rail chafing against brake line. Both subject to campaign No. 2009100002, March 2010.
 

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97 SL500, 98 E320 Wagon, 2002 ML500 - former W108/W112/W114/W123/W124/W126/W140/W220
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Discussion Starter #25
While you in that area check for washer reservoir chafing on brake lines below it. Another problem is steel braided fuel line that feeds rail chafing against brake line. Both subject to campaign No. 2009100002, March 2010.
I have the VMI on the car and this campaign was performed in 2011. Thanks for mentioning it.

Just pulled it into the garage and turned on the (garage) AC. Waiting for things to cool down a bit before I start in.

Interestingly, when I started it up it showed the lights and I got the peeping. Shut it off and restarted it and all was well - no lights.

Dan
 

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AC in the garage. Now that is luxurious.:smile

Of course you got caught with your pants down by not having SDS hooked up while the problem was in full swing.
 

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97 SL500, 98 E320 Wagon, 2002 ML500 - former W108/W112/W114/W123/W124/W126/W140/W220
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Discussion Starter #27
Yeah, I'm not going around with my SDS hooked up all the time. I just wanted to get it in the garage so I could start in on the left side motor mount. 45 minutes in and I've got it loose and just need to unbolt the support arm. Once I get the new mount in and secured I'm going to pull the ABS connector and give it a good cleaning, and will probably pull the motor to check brushes as well since I've got good access.

And what would I do? Just keep it on live data for the brake system? I'm not sure how it would help as I might be getting multiple errors.

I live in Florida. I resigned myself a couple of years ago that if I was going to work on cars year 'round I would have to have some means of working in a comfortable environment.

It's 93F outside, probably 80% humidity and sunny. In my garage it's in the low 80s and about 50% humidity. That's comfortable on a day like today.

Dan
 

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When you connect SDS does it stay in DAS or invokes old HHTWin? Is there anything in "Event Memory"?

I have looked through Owners Manual. Only thing that mentions beeping is Parking Brake and Unlocked Steering Column adjustment.
 

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97 SL500, 98 E320 Wagon, 2002 ML500 - former W108/W112/W114/W123/W124/W126/W140/W220
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Discussion Starter #29 (Edited)
When you connect SDS does it stay in DAS or invokes old HHTWin? Is there anything in "Event Memory"?

I have looked through Owners Manual. Only thing that mentions beeping is Parking Brake and Unlocked Steering Column adjustment.
Both BAS and ESP shell out to HHTWin.

Same here on the Brake warning light. That one has me really puzzled. I've got both the parking brake position switch disconnected and the brake reservoir level switch disconnected. Those are the only two things I can see that would trigger a brake warning light.

I'm about to hit the search feature, but can someone please tell me how to unplug the connector on the ABS unit? I can slide the retainer up about an inch, and nothing happens. The connector is firmly stuck in the socket at this point, no amount of wiggling or moving the retainer up and down seems to make a difference. If you look at the pictures in this thread, that's as far as I've been able to get with the connector:

https://www.benzworld.org/forums/w163-m-class/3022734-1999-ml320-abs-esp-ets-lights.html#post17750278

This is peeving me as I've got everything out of the way, so it's an ideal time to get in there and give it a good cleaning.

Dan
 

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Once you move locking slide up gently pull connector out. I know you have left wheel liner out but it helps to get left headlight out. This way you can have two hands in there.

Here is barbaric method.:eek

 

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2000 ML55 sold😢 2013 ML500,😁 2015 C250 estate wagon, 1927 Dodge 4 sedan, 1929 Dodge
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Haven’t you already had that disconnected and hosed it down with contact cleaner.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

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Discussion Starter #32
Once you move locking slide up gently pull connector out. I know you have left wheel liner out but it helps to get left headlight out. This way you can have two hands in there.

Here is barbaric method.:eek

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vNQ8B4SFD6k
WOW. That was unpleasant to watch.

I can get on the connector easily from above (WW reservoir is out) as well as from the wheel well, but it is solidly stuck in there. I tried prying at the joint between the connector and the body (very, very carefully) and I could see the blue plastic of the connector. I'm reluctant to wail on it at all for fear of damaging it.
 

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I did mentioned barbaric.:|

If connector does not want to come apart something inside is fused (corroded) together. For stubborn connectors I use Wurth Contact Cleaner OL. It will not damage plastics or rubber but it adds some lubricity.

2002 model had two setups for traction systems. Older version with electronics in the fuse box and newer where electronics and hydraulic module were combined under washer reservoir.
 

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Discussion Starter #34
Finally got it apart. It was not pleasant. Clear seal of some sort around the connector cover and seals on all of the wire openings. Cleaned everything and put it back together.

Pulled the motor, but despite pulling on the shaft I couldn't open it up. Fearing damage if I kept at it, I put it back in the ABS unit and called it done.

Got under the dash and hosed down the steering angle sensor and its connector with contact cleaner.

Got everything buttoned up and took it for a test drive. BAS light out of the gate, extinguished with a wheel lock to lock, returned within a minute or less. Another lock to lock made no difference. Roughly a 20 mile drive, nothing occurred but the BAS light remaining lit throughout the drive.

I'll continue to drive it and see what happens. I do my grocery shopping early on Sunday morning, so I'll drive it and see what's up then. Once i get back and get the groceries put away I'l put it on the SDS and see what's in the fault memory.

I will say that new motor mounts certainly make is a much nicer ride. If I can swing the time tomorrow I plan on draining and refilling differentials and transfer case, and replacing the driver's side bank of spark plugs.

Dan
 

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Once you move locking slide up gently pull connector out. I know you have left wheel liner out but it helps to get left headlight out. This way you can have two hands in there.

Here is barbaric method.:eek
OMG......

That was UGLY...... :D
 

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Discussion Starter #36
Drove it to grocery shopping this morning, about a 6-7 mile round trip. BAS light was on at startup, went off, then came back on later with no apparent trigger as far as driving.

No sign of the "terrible trio" so far. I'm keeping my fingers crossed and knocking on burl.

Changing oil and filter in the R129 right now, will probably pull the W163 in afterwards and run codes to see what's up.

Dan
 

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I'd forgotten watching this.

Worth the time (I need to do my ABS motor as it has grumbly bearings but no warnings at the minute - I have the parts.... I have also replaced both my sensors after issues)

https://youtu.be/HK5HLcrtrjc
 

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Once you move locking slide up gently pull connector out. I know you have left wheel liner out but it helps to get left headlight out. This way you can have two hands in there.

Here is barbaric method.:eek


People actually do this??? :scream:
 

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Here is barbaric method.:eek


People actually do this??? :scream:
 

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Discussion Starter #40
As of this morning I am about 30-40 miles out from having cleaned the ABS connector with no warning lights. I continue to have an intermittent BAS light, but I am satisfied that the steering angle sensor has failed or is intermittent based on its behavior and codes in SDS. I’ll address this separately in the near future.

Keeping my fingers crossed....

Dan
 
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