[Meister 4.5]

BAS/ASR with CE codes **update, fixed!

Hello all,

Sorry to be a bother, I usually try to search and resolve my problems with the info that is already out there, but I am stumped.

Car is a 1999 C230 Kompressor. My wife and I purchased the car about 2 years ago with 130k on it, it has about 150k on it now. We have enjoyed two years of trouble free driving with the car, until now.

The headgasket on the car was leaking coolant externally, which I replaced about 2 months ago. Car came apart and went back together just fine and has ran great since.

The other night the car illuminated the CE light and the BAS/ASR light. Car still drives fine, but the Kompressor is not engaging, so it is down on power, but otherwise smooth and runs ok.

I searched the forum here and swapped out the brake light switch, which did nothing to help the BAS/ASR light.

I then suspected the battery. It had a sticker on it from 2005, so I figured at 10 years old, it may be low causing the light. I replaced the battery, no change.

I pulled the wheels today trying to see if I could visually see the wheel sensors and maybe clean the rings, but they all appeared OK (visually).

I pulled the CE codes and they are as follows:

P0446
P0443
P1525
P1235
P1236
P1420

I'm at a loss as to where to go from here. I do not want to pay big $$ by taking it to the dealer, I also don't want to drag it to an Indie. I like and enjoy doing work myself, but don't really know where to go from here.

I also do not know if the BAS/ASR is causing the CE codes, or visa versa?

Please help. Thanks!

Doug

 

[Patch's]

rather than explain this I am providing a cut and past!
I've checked everything up to 1525 so far and it appears to be consistent, if I find something else I'll post it. I would concentrate my efforts here 1st and then see where to next.
To verify normal function, monitor the Evaporative Emissions (EVAP) canister purge valve signal PID EVAPPDC (or Electronic Vapor Management Valve (EVMV) for electronic valve) and the signal voltage (Powertrain Control Module (PCM) control side). With the valve closed, EVAPPDC will indicate 0 percent duty cycle (0 mA for EVMV) and the voltage approximately equal to battery voltage. When the valve is commanded fully open, EVAPPDC will indicate 100 percent duty cycle (1000mA for EVMV) and a voltage drop of 3 volts minimum is normal. Output test mode may be used to switch output ON/OFF to verify function.

Likely Causes:

Evaporative Emissions (EVAP), Canister Purge Valve, Vapor Management Valve (VMV), Issues:
-- Valve power supply circuit is open (No power reaching circuit from battery) => Check Fuses to Actuator, Ignition, Engine, etc.
-- Valve solenoid control circuit is open (No power reaching control circuit)
-- Valve solenoid control circuit is shorten to Electrical Ground (GND), Chassis
-- Valve solenoid control circuit is shorten to (B+), (Vehicle Power (VPWR) [Battery Voltage])
-- Solenoid Valve is Damaged or Failing

-- Damaged/Failed Powertrain Control Module (PCM)

Just finished up, It looks like PCM, after you do a couple of checks I think a trip to the dealer to confirm is likely the best root.
Patch

 

[Meister 4.5]

I don't understand what you're getting at?

Doug

 

[Patch's]

-- Damaged/Failed Powertrain Control Module (PCM)

Just finished up, It looks like PCM, after you do a couple of checks I think a trip to the dealer to confirm is likely the best root.
Patch[/QUOTE]


Hello Doug, As I mentioned in the post above my suspicion is; problem with the PCM!

If this were my car I would get it checked by a MB specialist to verify such a conclusion!

The diagnostics cost in a case like yours may be better viewed as a savings both in time and money!
Perhaps others here may have encountered a similar experience and be able to offer up a quick fix?

Patch

 

[Meister 4.5]

After additional research I decided to replace my camshaft magnet, as I was getting the code for it, and it appeared to be leaking oil out of the plug. It was original and had 153k on it, so figured why not.

Additionally, after all of the talk on the SLK board of having the EXACT same codes/symptoms as I did (and we pretty much have the same motor/setup), and their problem being the K40 relay, I went ahead and replaced my K40 relay.

Car is now back to normal, no lights, problems, and runs like a top, like it used to.

For what it is worth for people in who have or will have the same problem.

Doug