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I have a 1999 E320. About 1-2 months ago I turned the car on and got the BAS ASR light illuminated on the control panel accompanied by the ACC.SKIDCONTROL ASR message and the engine jolting. Turned off car, removed key, tried again and started fine.
Recently, it takes up to 6 times starting and restarting (taking key out and putting back in each time) before it starts normally. And then it drives perfectly fine! Yesterday, i must’ve tried it 40 times ... finally had to drive home from grocery store in “limp mode” about 10-20 mph.
this morning, it started fine on second try.
I inherited this car when my dad died, I’m a single mom with not a lot of $$ just trying to get some advice before I take it to local mechanic monday to see if he can help,or if it’s a Mercedes Dealer only kind of issue. Thanks so much.
SB
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2002 E55 AMG Sedan
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When this happens have you ever had problems moving the shifter out of park? Also when this happens do your brake lights work?
 

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2007 E320 Bluetec, 2008 320ML CDI
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Might be two problems at play here.

The brake light switch can cause some of these problems (ASR BAS lights).

How many miles on the car?

Does the engine always crank when you turn the key?

When the engine is cranking does the tachometer move at all?

Was the engine warm the time you had 40 or so failures to start?

Skippy


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Discussion Starter #4
No, I was able to put it in reverse but it jumped when I did... then it’s in limp mode ... can’t accelerate etc.
And not sure if brake lights are working when that happens.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Might be two problems at play here.

The brake light switch can cause some of these problems (ASR BAS lights).

How many miles on the car?

Does the engine always crank when you turn the key?

When the engine is cranking does the tachometer move at all?

Was the engine warm the time you had 40 or so failures to start?

Skippy


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Hi, thanks for the reply.
210,000 miles ... (was pristinely maintained by my dad but I’ve owned it for almost 4 hrs now)
Yes, engine always cranks.
The tachometer moves to about 10 and goes a little above and below that.
Yesterday when it kept starting with the issues/warning lights/erratic behavior I was in the grocery store less than an hour .... yet this morning it started in 2 tries. Then went to grocery store again, was there maybe 20 min and it started on 2nd or 3rd try again and drives perfect!
 

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It jumped when you put it in reverse because it went into limp mode. I was also thinking the brake light switch as well.
 

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2007 E320 Bluetec, 2008 320ML CDI
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Pointing to brake light switch. They do go bad.
Only use a genuine MB part.

My other consideration was the crankshaft position sensor (CPS).
These usually fail when warm and ‘recover’ after cooling down. Sometimes it is a few minutes, sometimes a couple of hours.
A telltale is no movement of the tachometer under cranking.
A nominal life of a CPS is 100K miles.

It sounds like you have good records on the maintenance of the car. Search to see if either brake light switch or CPS have been replaced.


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the brake switch they are talking about it is plugged into the brake pedal (you know, where you press with your foot )

generally you have to pull the knee panel out (with some force) once you remove the little black air vent with a screwdriver.

it usually fixes the BAS errors. there are several videos if you need to study it ahead of time but it really only takes 5 minutes to see if this is your fix. no "tools" needed
 

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1999 E320, 2000 E320, 2003 E320 Wagon, 2005 C230K SS, 2010 Accord LX w Eibach & Koni FSD's
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My other consideration was the crankshaft position sensor (CPS).
These usually fail when warm and ‘recover’ after cooling down. Sometimes it is a few minutes, sometimes a couple of hours.
A telltale is no movement of the tachometer under cranking.
A nominal life of a CPS is 100K miles.
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A bad CPS will not put a transmission into limp mode as far as I know. A leaking transmission electrical connector (pilot bushing) can and is a very common problem.

I would check the brake light switch first. You might want to check the battery voltage also. Low voltage can cause BAS and ASR light to come on at startup. This usually happens on first start in morning or when engine is cold.
 

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I have a 1999 E320. About 1-2 months ago I turned the car on and got the BAS ASR light illuminated on the control panel accompanied by the ACC.SKIDCONTROL ASR message and the engine jolting. Turned off car, removed key, tried again and started fine.
Recently, it takes up to 6 times starting and restarting (taking key out and putting back in each time) before it starts normally. And then it drives perfectly fine! Yesterday, i must’ve tried it 40 times ... finally had to drive home from grocery store in “limp mode” about 10-20 mph.
this morning, it started fine on second try.
I inherited this car when my dad died, I’m a single mom with not a lot of $$ just trying to get some advice before I take it to local mechanic monday to see if he can help,or if it’s a Mercedes Dealer only kind of issue. Thanks so much.
SB View attachment 2621587
This is a catch all alert.
1. Check battery - a meter should read minimum of 12.5 volts.
2. To narrow this down you are going to need a tester.
When I had this problem the tester kept telling me the right rear wheel speed sensor was defective. Turned out to be the ARS board. I understand what you want to do but these errors are complicated. Some auto part stores have testing equipment and will help you for free.
 
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