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Discussion Starter #1
does anyone know if the ball joints from a 463 have the same taper as the ball joints for a 460? comparing the two on the epc, the threads are the same but i dont know if the taper and length are the same.
im making a stainless drag link and tie rod and want to use stock ball joints. if not i will have to use a thru bolt design which i really dont want to do.
 

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1984 280GE Cabrio
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Most stainless is brittle. It will not be your best choice. Just sleeve the existing rods with chromoly tube and be done with it. You can also reweld the steering stab. bracket to the raer bar if you sleeve it. You will have to drill a couple of 3/8 in. holes in the sleeve and once installed have someone fill the holes with a MIG welder to keep the sleeve from spinning.
 

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1980 LWB 280GE
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Hmmm.....

Try searching the forum for "tie rod" or something like that. Somebody recently found replaceable tie rod ends that work for the G. I can't remember what they were from, or even vouch that they work, but the guy who made the post probably could.

I take it you're just looking for replaceable rod ends to fit the G tapers. Or is there something special about the 463 ones that you want those specifically?

Maybe someone at Europa would have one of each on the shelf they could look at for you.

One more thing, if you're getting replaceable ends, for heaven's sake get some with replaceable boots. I'll never understand why MB uses those swaged-on boots.

Good luck!

-Dave G.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Hipine - 3/25/2005 10:27 AM
I take it you're just looking for replaceable rod ends to fit the G tapers. Or is there something special about the 463 ones that you want those specifically?
Maybe someone at Europa would have one of each on the shelf they could look at for you.
One more thing, if you're getting replaceable ends, for heaven's sake get some with replaceable boots. I'll never understand why MB uses those swaged-on boots.
Good luck!
-Dave G.
just need some ball joints left and right hand thread with the same taper...i just noticed in the epc the 463 ball joints have the same thread for the link and the nut that hold the taper, so i just picked that one. but i tried a ball joint for a rover, that you can get anywhere, but the rover's taper is way smaller than our tapers!!
fk rod ends make some heavy duty rod ends, and will heat treat them for you, but once i drill out the taper in the knuckles theres no going back, you know what i mean.
replaceable boots and drill and tap for a grease fitting so you can stuff some moly in there.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Steve D - 3/25/2005 9:52 AM
Most stainless is brittle.
very true, but we have alot of 1.125" 304 stainless bar stock here at work so i can make a couple and have one of each to carry with me on trail.
i can get annealed 4140 so i can machine it here, and then get it sent out to be hardened though...i just use stuff here at work alot so thats why im using stainless.
 

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Another possibility

seventyfive - 3/25/2005 11:07 AM
....once i drill out the taper in the knuckles theres no going back, you know what i mean....
I do indeed. But if you're thinking of going that way, you could press in a tapered bushing. Rather than drill the whole thing out to the large diameter, shrink the whole thing down to the smaller diameter.

Or make a sleeve for the SRE that's tapped on the inside, and then tapered to match the G taper on the outside. Could even tack weld or red locktite it in place.

Not quite as strong, granted. But reversible, if that's a concern.

More than one way to skin the cat.

-Dave G.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
RE: Another possibility



its not accurately dimensioned, just sketched it real quick. but i think i could turn these on the lathe here.
once the bushing is threaded on the stud (provided i would need to get the appropriate length stud) all i need is a grade 12 .5" fender washer and a nylock nut.
i could actually make the bushing a hair shorter so when i tightened the nut it would seat the bushing for the tolerance fit.

im still thinking a heim joint for this, just in case the rod end fails i would still have a beefy bolt holding the heim joint to the knuckle...and you would be able to feel the excessive play when /if it does fail, with the studded rod end you dont have that safety net. and actually fk has some serious high-misalignment heims.

the static radial load rating for that one is 32,100.

thanks for the idea.
 

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Sounds like a plan!

Good idea to use the plain heim joint. That way you can use a grade 8, (I always forget the metric equivalent...is it 8.8?) bolt or something strong like that, rather than just relying on whatever the stud from the rod end was. Probably cheaper too.

-Dave G.
 

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I don't know if the joints from a 463 will fit, but I do know the ball joints from a Ford transit Van will, they are identical but cost a fraction of the MB tag
 

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Discussion Starter #11
RE: Sounds like a plan!

common is din 8.8 and din 10.9, our common equivalents are grade 8 and 12. but 8.8 is stronger than 8 and 10.9 is stronger than 12.

my concern would be poppin the stud out of the race.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Ernest T Bass - 3/25/2005 8:47 PM

This link might help as it will let you see the cone size of the ball joints

http://webcat.zf-trading.com/index.asp?LKZ=D&PKW=1&SPR=4&EINSPNR=32,14,1632,1614
thanks.
 
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