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89 300E; 00 E320
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Why is it that I don't see anything wrong with this?
 

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Doesn't look like they damaged anything, but there are far more elegant ways of getting the job done. A ball joint press kit can be rented from a local parts store for free.
 

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W124
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Crude but somewhat effective. Wish he had bottomed out the ball joint though, its not all the way "home".

I will admit though that the guy with the hammer has better aim and control than most carpenters I've seen. Oh yeah and one more thing. Are non-vented front rotors a "Euro thing"?
 

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'95 E300 DIESEL, '91 600SEL, '92 600SEL
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...Oh yeah and one more thing. Are non-vented front rotors a "Euro thing"?
Not necessarily a Euro thing but rather a bottom feeder spec thing. Dollars to donuts, that thing is a 200 or 230 at best, and you can bet your sweet @ss the original owner probably only ticked one or two options on the 12 page list . . . the infamous "smoker's package" along with factory badge delete option to minimize the shame under the hood ;)
 

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The method is effective; everything's easier with a lift and a helping buddy.
Is that a tile floor in that garage? I've never seen tile in a garage before. Imagine dropping that hammer?
 

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W124
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The method is effective; everything's easier with a lift and a helping buddy.
Is that a tile floor in that garage? I've never seen tile in a garage before. Imagine dropping that hammer?
i noticed that too. That would seem a bit fragile for a shop floor but maybe its some kind of special (thick/softer) tile? The sight of the sway bar mounts being the only thing holding the spring in the car was frightening but someone may be able to explain how the stress is not significant for the design. (I'm not "there" yet though.) A couple of well placed clamps wouldn't take much time to install before separating the ball joint from the hub/spindle IMO.
 

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Don't see the problem with the sway bar holding the spring. Same force is applied when replacing shocks. I usually will put a spring compressor on the spring, but it's not necessary.
 

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W124
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I've seen a lot of people posting that they do something similar, like a jack under the LCA, etc. Its not recommended but they say it works. I too would rather spend the extra five minutes and use my Klann compressor.
 

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1993 300e 2.8
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127 Posts
At about 1:44 I see what appears to be smoke to the left. Did he heat the carrier section before beating in the ball joint? Also, are all ball joints replaceable without replacing while A arm? I replaced whole A-arms for baseline on bushings (and the ball joints were bad...dry sockets and rusty).
 

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W124
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The early cars have LCAs with replaceable ball joints. Its funny how I am so cautious not to bend anything when I do a job like this.
 

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'92 W124 230E Auto
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178 Posts
I've never been a fan of the 'hammer and chisel' approach, even if it works. Especially not on something as critical as this ball joint, which is constantly under load.
 

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W124
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Beat me to it Tutte re the wild spring, made me cringe.
Yes Boyd, most of us have disassembled our W124 front suspension only to find the spring broken. Who knows why they break or when. It would be very inconvenient if that happened while pounding out a ball joint with the spring extended like that. At best, it would send a shockwave through whoever is wielding the hammer, at worst, you won't be posting a story about how the job went...or any other post for that matter. I'll keep using my Klann and spending the extra five minutes.
 

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1995 e320ce. 1993 230 TE. 1987 Kit car with 260e running gear.
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708 Posts
Yes Andy, Klaan every time no matter what. Not necessarily to take the spring out but at least to kill it a bit.
The best £285. (second hand, 10 years ago) I have spent on 124s.
 

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With the ball joint unbolted the spring is near the end of its extension and has far less tension than at ride height. There really isn't much load on the sway bar by that point and with the bracket bolted on it's all at the base of the threads on the boxed steel control arm. There is less difference in the levels of the two control arms at this point than when taking a quick, tight turn which is what the sway bar is there to counteract. But hammering on it doesn't help any.
 

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'92 W124 230E Auto
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Yes Boyd, most of us have disassembled our W124 front suspension only to find the spring broken. Who knows why they break or when. It would be very inconvenient if that happened while pounding out a ball joint with the spring extended like that. At best, it would send a shockwave through whoever is wielding the hammer, at worst, you won't be posting a story about how the job went...or any other post for that matter. I'll keep using my Klann and spending the extra five minutes.
The Klann kit is a beauty, I watched an online video in which the lower ball joint was professionally replaced in less than 15 minutes, without altering any of the existing wheel alignment settings, or risking life and limb.
 

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1995 e320ce. 1993 230 TE. 1987 Kit car with 260e running gear.
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Aye Ralph, Klaan have workshop kit for lots of tricky jobs.
The one we were on about was the coil spring clamp.

 

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You can see how they cut the video when the tech was compressing the spring mounted in the vice. This is because it takes quite a few turns on the tool to compress the spring (or let it out). FWIW, when I need to remove a front spring, I remove the front wheel and then lower the car so that the wide part of the rotor is sitting on a large piece of wood or a jack stand. I let the weight of the car completely off the jack and at this point the spring is more than half compressed. Insert the Klann at that point and jack the car up and you will see it only takes two or three turns on the tool to compress the spring enough to remove it using this method.
 
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