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2007 CLK550 - Can someone comment on the VIN

I'm strongly inclined to buy a low mileage CLK550 thought I'm concerned about the issues with early examples of this engine. The VIN is WDBTJ72J77F217902. If it is in the danger range, as I suspect it is, are there any signs of impending doom?

Or, as my mechanic suggests, should I just stick to pre 2005 cars with the M113 V8? There are some great deals popping up on 2003 SL500's, or it's possible if I keep looking I could find another low mileage CLK500. The thing is, CLK55's are scarce and expensive, and the CLK550's have somewhat better creature comforts and even more horsepower.

As well as a 7-speed transmission with a bad reputation.
 

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If the M273 engine is in the danger range, don’t touch it unless it has documentation of the timing gear repair done. Even then I would stay low on the price.
 

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Plugging the VIN into datamb.com yields engine 273967 30 103065 - it;s beyond the range for timing chain idler sprocket failure.
 

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Thanks

Thanks a lot - though I'm still wondering if I should stick to the M113 engine and 5 speed. There's still some low mileage examples to be found, especially in the larger cars. SL500's seem to getting pretty reasonable, though as someone said, bells and whistles, thorns and thistles.
 

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Hi All!
I am hopefully soon to be the official owner of a 2006 CLK 350. But as I was doing my due diligence I came across your forum. I have learned a lot so far, but mostly to be afraid to get this car and it's possible engine issue. It is a 2006 CLK 350, red convertible, 101K miles in great condition. Owner asking $6700 for it. Am I making a mistake? Can you tell me if this VIN number verifies that it is a bad engine and a car I should avoid.

The VIN is WDBTK56G26T071263.

Any help is greatly appreciated.
Thanks.
 

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No need to check the VIN - all MY2006's with the M272 engine (like this CLK350) will be in the range for potential failure. Not all fail (or at least not too soon in their lifespan), so there's no way to know what will happen, but my advice is always avoid those engine int he range.
 

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Correct. There have been reports of failure at between 20K and 180K miles. One theory is that they are all defective, it's just a matter of how soon they fail. Of course this sprocket is a moving part, and will eventually wear out under normal use, but what's the "expected" lifespan? 200K? 300K? I'd say failure before 200K is defintiely too early.
 

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In regards to the warranty that was offered from Mercedes as part of the settlement.... Am i correct that they will cover a portion of the cost up to 125K miles?
My wife is still very inclined to buy this vehicle and is getting other advice that it is less likely to fail at these higher miles than if it were in the 50K mile range.
 

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If we were to buy it, would it be worth it to take it to a mechanic and have the part replaced? i am seeing that the cost is upwards of $5K. is it possible for this damaged part to do even more damage and destroy the engine, costing even more to repair? I'm just trying to think of options WHEN, not if i lose this battle with my wife and we buy it.
 

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As a DIY job, it's still in the $1500 range just in parts, and it takes about 20 hours for an experienced tech, so do the math using your indy's labor rates and see what it would cost. If you do buy this car, my advice is to not do anything until (if) it fails. The symptoms will be an MIL (check engine light) illuminated with codes for 1200/1208 (generic OBDII codes P0017/P0016). Even when the codes first appear, you likely have many thousands, if not tens of thousands, before you experience any serious issues (which would eventually be timing chain failure).
 

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I'd be inclined to pass on this one.

These cars are not that hard to find, and prices for known good ones are getting reasonable. $15K will buy you a 2008 or 2009 convertible with under 80K miles on it in Florida, you don't even have to look for months and months to find one.

When I was looking for mine (two years ago), the parameters were: V6, outside of the balance shaft trouble window, convertible, under 50K miles, no smoking car, full service records, $15K out the door. In two weeks I had a nice one which met all the specs except it had 59K instead of 50K.

"Projects" tend to cost more in time, money and aggravation than they are worth. If you buy an otherwise nice CLK for 8K and the engine falls out, you'll likely have 12 to 13K in it by the time it is fixed, and you have to ask yourself what your time is worth, and how inconvenient it will be to not have the car for the several weeks or some months before it is fixed.

Remember also you'll still be paying insurance and car payments (and license plate fees) while the car is parked, plus perhaps renting or borrowing alternate transportation.

I'm thinking you might want to save yourself a lot of trouble, go buy a known good one instead of a known bad one.

Best Regards,

Mike/Florida
 

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My indi is now quoting $6,500 parts and labor for the job.
Translation: he doesn't want to do it.


Look at the numbers this way - if you buy the car now and it blows up in four years, then you'll have a car which needs $6,500 in work to be worth $6,000. Does that make sense?

Plan A: Buy this car and hope it doesn't blow up. Luck is not a strategy.

Plan B: Buy this car and plan on spending $6,500 sometime later - most likely when it is least convenient for you - to just stay even. (If you can spend $6,500 at the drop of a hat, why are you even looking at a used car?)

Plan C: Buy this car, find a replacement engine (not in the gonna-blow-up range) and install it now. If the car is priced really, really right, this might be viable, but it will be difficult to get the seller to give a steep discount on a car which is currently running.

Plan D: Walk away from this one and find another car in the "safe" serial number range for about the same money or maybe a little more.

Let me be blunt - why buy trouble?

Best Regards,

Mike/Florida
 

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Hi
This is my first post as we are about to buy our first CLK350 a 2008 model could you please check the vin number for me WDB2094562T102481
Regards
Doug
 

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Quick question. I have a 2006 MLK 350. Runs great, but does have codes P0016 and P0017. So, keeping fingers crossed it lasts for a while. Question...Maryland emissions test now needed. How do i get it to pass with check engine light on for these codes, which are not emissions codes?
Thanks!
 

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That is almost certainly balance shaft failure. As for passing emissions, I don't know your state's regulations, but I would assume that it won't pass with ANY codes active.
 
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