[weberdocs]

Need some advice and guidance.

Washed our 1986 280GE at a professional car wash with undercarraige cleaning, idling the entire time. A few minutes later after a drive of maybe a half mile, the vehicle was shut down for a few minutes and when restarted...ran Very rough, wouldn't idle, yet would run at higher RPM's, yet with some backfires. I checked the distributor = dry. I checked the Gas Cap = no rubber seal (is this normal?). I added some fuel dryer, no help.

We just purchased the G about three months ago and noticed subtle rust inside the tank. When I looked closer yesterday, I noted a rust-through hole just inside the tank where the fuel cap is (on top). My guess is, water got in through here and contaminated the tank. Any other thoughts from the forum on the idle problems?

QUESTION: Do I need to replace the whole tank, or can this one section of the tank be replaced? Is this a big or common problem? How much is this gonna cost? Lastly....does anyone have these parts in their "spares" pile and willing to let them go?

Thanks for the help.

One last question....should I get the tank purged ASAP while waiting for the parts to prevent engine damage?

Thanks to all in advance

 

[DUTCH]

weberdocs - 2/10/2005 6:40 AM

Need some advice and guidance.

Washed our 1986 280GE at a professional car wash with undercarraige cleaning, idling the entire time. A few minutes later after a drive of maybe a half mile, the vehicle was shut down for a few minutes and when restarted...ran Very rough, wouldn't idle, yet would run at higher RPM's, yet with some backfires. I checked the distributor = dry. I checked the Gas Cap = no rubber seal (is this normal?). I added some fuel dryer, no help.

We just purchased the G about three months ago and noticed subtle rust inside the tank. When I looked closer yesterday, I noted a rust-through hole just inside the tank where the fuel cap is (on top). My guess is, water got in through here and contaminated the tank. Any other thoughts from the forum on the idle problems?

QUESTION: Do I need to replace the whole tank, or can this one section of the tank be replaced? Is this a big or common problem? How much is this gonna cost? Lastly....does anyone have these parts in their "spares" pile and willing to let them go?

Thanks for the help.

One last question....should I get the tank purged ASAP while waiting for the parts to prevent engine damage?

Thanks to all in advance

There is supposed to be a gasket on the filler cap.

Is the rust through hole in the filler neck or in the tank itself? If the neck, it is a separate part. If the tank, it can be repaired.

If you need part numbers, send me your VIN by email; and I can look them up.

If there's any chance that water got in there, try a heavier dose of drygas. Otherwise, there is a tank drain in the center bottom of the tank. It's a large hexhead plug. Best let a pro do it, though; as there's a major danger of fire.

 

[JRBrown]

Tank or fuel neck. Contact Loopers at http://www.loopersc.com/. They did my 280GE fuel tank back in 1999-2000.

Concur with Dutch, there should be a gas cap gasket. Easily procurred from Europa. Depnding on the attitude of a local Dealer's parts dept, you can walk in with the cap and they might be able to trail and error one.

Loopers can drain the gas tank too and you might as well change out the fuel filter. Be sure and alert them to the fuel pickup strainer and to take care with it. If you have to order a tank gasket and fuel filter, order a new strainer just in case.

By changing the fuel filter, let the lines drain completely. At least you will have gotten most of the water out. Dont' forget, water is heavier than gas and will settle to the bottom of the tank, so with care, maybe you don't have to drain the entire tank except for a gallon or two. Just crak the drain nut a turn or two.

One shade tree mech's thoughts.

 

[weberdocs]

Thanks Dutch, Thanks JR,

The hole is in the top of the initial filler spout, just inside the cap, on the top of the filler spout. I have emailed the concern listed for a quote and hope to hear tomorrow. I will contact Europa or contact the dealer.

Are the Gas Caps for the G500 compatable with the 280GE?

Dutch, I will send the VIN later...I feel guilty using you to find my parts...but your generous offer combined with expertise are hard to refuse. Looking into the filler line, there is the initial section with the approximately 4 inch filler line where the defect lies...this is the part that will need replacement, if my guess is correct. Is this a difficult fix? I will certainly get a professional to do the work, fires are generally a bad thing

Thanks again for the advice and help. This vehicle remains a great enjoyment and the familiar Snap of the door locks embodies enjoyment.

Thanks again

 

[Thomas.Schumacher]

While your repair person is checking the tank, it would be a good idea to check the top of the tank since the G fuel tank is prone to rust at the very top. This too can be repaired. Some forum owners have had their fuel tanks plastic lined. Much cheaper than a new tank. Good luck.

 

[weberdocs]

Thanks,

I'll have the tank looked at soonest and will ask about getting it lined at the same time. We plan to have this G for a long time, so when we are doing repairs, we are attempting to do them "long term" and systematic.

When the tank is repaired, should I replace any lines or other components other than those already suggested? There is a fuel line on UK Ebay that is going for $15 and I thought of getting it as well.

The tank people should call today.

One last question, is there a chance for engine damage while the vehicle sits and waits, due to the water in the lines/injectors???

Thanks

 

[alaskagwagen]

Here is a source for a new tank - UNIMOG dealer in Canada. It has been up on the site for a while, along with a 1986 300GD. I am not sure it is still available but check it out.

http://www.unimogcanada.com/clearance.php

 

[Benz-Dady]

I just had my tank repaired by a company in the New England area. Moyer Tank Renew I think. I highly recomend them, they are mentioned on the forum do a search and you should be able to find them.

 

[weberdocs]

Thanks for the tips on tank repairs/locations and for the parts source in Canada.

I have arranged to have the tank evaluated by the shop in Rockville, Maryland (just up the road) as suggested in the postings. I have asked for a quote on the new tank in Canada which seams pretty reasonable as far a price is concerned...may even just replace it regardless and put a new fuel system in place.

Regarding the repair cost, what was the approximate cost of repairing your tank and did you get it coated/lined?

For the forum...since I am considering replacing the tank, any options regarding increasing the fuel tank capacity with a larger tank or auxiliary tanks?

Still curious, will I sustain damage to the engine by not getting the injectors/tank cleaned ASAP.

Thanks for all the support

 

[JRBrown]

Damage to the fuel injection system - None is likely considering that you are taking care of it in the near term. There are components that are more sensitive to moisture than others in the fuel injection system, but the damage takes time.

Back in 1999 it was about $350 for everything. I had some perforation building on top. If I had to do it over again I would have overcoated the tank and left the interior of it alone. But I removed the tank, dropped it off and picked it up. When I did the entire job, I replaced the fuel pump (had 115k miles) a number of fuel lines, the fuel filter and the tank's support plate (often referred to as the skid plate). It is also a good time to replace the insulation on the tank (protects the tank from the exhaust pipe heat). I coated the skip plate with POR-15 and Chassis Black.

I recommend a conservative approach to dealing with the water. Take a new fuel filter with you to the fuel tank repair shop. DON'T let them go buy one unless it's BOSCH. There is a lot of aftermarket crap out there. Have them drain the tank, inspect and clean the pickup filter, let all the fuel lines drain that were disconnected for the fuel filter and replace the fuel filter before filling up the tank. A note on draining the tank, again water is heavier than gas so they really only need to drop a few gallons. Nothing short of a complete tear down of the fuel delivery and injection system will get rid of all of the water AND you don't have to do it. You're objective is to get rid of most of it.

Try to avoid having the tank coated. It is a great process, but they will have to remove the plastic "slosh" can around the fuel pickup and replace it with a handmade metal one. I wasn't impressed with it, but it did work. The reason they do this is they coat the tank internally and externally and then bake the coatings.

Try to have them do a spot repair. Then when you have time, drop the tank yourself and coat the outside with POR-15 (presuming you have no leaks or perforations).

The problem with do it yourself internal liquid fuel tank repair kits (the type you pour in and coat the inside is the "slosh" can holes at the base get smaller and the fuel pick line will reduce in diameter possibly restricting fuel flow.

Fuel capacity increase. Does your G have the small tanks that add about 2.5 gallons each to total fuel capacity?

 

[DUTCH]

Another Alternative

Another alternative would be to replace the tank with the current plastic tank. This will give you 25 gallons in the tank itself; which, depending on whether you have the 2nd auxilliary fuel tank will give you a bit of extra capacity, as well as no more rust through ever again.

Cost in Europe:

Tank - € 445,95
Retrofit Kit - € 494,81
Shipping (?Est?) - € 100,--

€ 1,-- = ~ US$ 1.35

 

[JRBrown]

RE: Another Alternative

Wow. A mutch better deal.

 

[Irish sean]

plastic lining?

Of the fuel tank?i am curious how this is done.is this an actual treatment orproduct??am intrested as my tank has a half dozen self repaired pinholes and am too cheap[AKA short of money] to buy a new plastic tank.
regds

 

[DUTCH]

RE: plastic lining?

Irish sean - 2/13/2005 11:45 AM

Of the fuel tank?i am curious how this is done.is this an actual treatment orproduct??am intrested as my tank has a half dozen self repaired pinholes and am too cheap[AKA short of money] to buy a new plastic tank.
regds

This website has a pretty good description of the process:

http://www.gas-tank.com/

 

[Greg S.]

RE: plastic lining?

I had my tank repaired by Gas Tank Re-Nu, for roughly $400 CDN(taxes in). The tank is guaranteed for life and better than new. They sand blast the tank, mig weld any holes or pacth if requried and then coat the tank inside and out. It was a nice job overall and should be the last of my leaks, (except for the aux tank but lets not talk about that!!)

 

[Hipine]

Another part to check

As long as you have the tank down, inspect or replace the 1/2" diameter steel vent pipe that attaches to the tank top near the level sender (short length of rubber hose makes the connection to the tank). It's often rusted out and can be a source of fumes or leaks when the tank is topped off. The steel line runs across to the chassis above the exhaust pipe, then another rubber line goes from that steel pipe up to the filler neck.

-Dave G.

 

[weberdocs]

Super feed back and appreciated.

Will have the top of the tank checked as well as the lines on top that tend to rust out. I had the tank and lines checked today. They are pulling all, and will repair the tanks, purge the system and repair all for about $650 US. They are a firm out of Rockville Maryland suggested by this String. They stated that this will clean and repair everything up the engine, but no guarantees about any further damage in the Fuel Control Unit or the Injectors. I hope all this will be fine. They sounded very knowledgable and were confident of the repairs (thanks for the hook-up).

The fuel tank in Canada was sold today at 1:30PM (bummer, I was going to replace all and go new).

Regarding the repairs to the rest (Shocks x 4, rear grease seals and inspection of the U-joints (see previous strings regarding Shocks/Vibration in 4X4), The local repair shop in Kennsington, MD was contacted today...Wow...very professional and VERY knowlegable. They have my business just from the phone call.

We remain grateful for this forum and for the assistance provided.

I sometimes feel guilty at not helping others yet...I am still in the learning mode...will provide more input to others when I garner more knowledge. In the meantime, thanks.

 

[DUTCH]

Don't !

weberdocs - 2/14/2005 8:30 PM


I sometimes feel guilty at not helping others yet...I am still in the learning mode...will provide more input to others when I garner more knowledge. In the meantime, thanks.

Don't feel guilty. Every single participant on this forum was in your shoes at one time. Glad you're here with us!