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Clutch engages and compressor spins. It's not making any weird noises but I have a feeling you're right, it's shot.

So:
-replace compressor
-replace dryer and bad temp sensor


anything else?
 

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Some also change expansion valve, but cleaning it should do.
I am not 100% sure your refrigerant temp sensor is bad, but once you have the system empty, that is good time to replace it.
 

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Preparations for DTC readout:

Ignition ON
Temperature selector left "HI", right "LO".
Within 20 seconds, press REST and EC simultaneously for more than 5 seconds
The led in the RECIRCULATE button flashes and the display shows "di R"
My display goes blank, rather than displaying "di R".

Press AUTO repeatedly until all DTC's (refer to DTC table) are displayed. Record each DTC as it is displayed . . . By pressing the right AUTO button, the next DTC stored in memory will be displayed.
What I find odd is that I have two codes in memory,
B1234 (photodiode is on order)
B1416 (motor is on order)
but I have to cycle through the codes twice to get to the end. It goes like this:

B1234
B1416
then
B1234 (with the fan symbol in the center displayed)
B1416 (with the fan symbol in the center displayed)

???
 

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EB1 234 - So you know, sun sensor has had no impact on normal AC operation - ever - it's a nonsensical "thought" 16 yrs ago that was intended to increase fan speed +1 when sensor detected strong direct light.

EB1 416 since this pump is used when heat is on, or AC Rest mode - has no effect on cooling. If you didn't have cabin heat problems this past season - it's a "forget-about-it" thing.

Fan symbol indicates it's a error code

If it makes you feel easier - use the climate control diagnostic mode to delete old stored codes - leaving only "current" or active codes - again if either-or-both codes are current codes - have no impact on AC operation

 

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I have codes of 43 8 / 42 232/41 3 / 40 6/ 24 11.9 / 23 50/ 22 50/ 21 25/ 20 3.3 what are thesecoeds
Please put the year and the model of your car, and your location.

It appears that you started from the end (43) In the sensor reading mode you need to press the AUTO on the LEFT to increment the readings from 1 to 43. The readings have no significant value from the a/c operation point of view, except that your battery is 11.9V (low, should be 13.2 or above) while your speed is 50 miles and your rpm is 2500.

Please provide your readings from 1 to 43 and also the error codes per instructions below.

http://www.benzworld.org/forums/w210-e-class/1384396-automatic-climate-control-diagnostic-trouble-code.html#post2947104

And what seems to be the problem ?
 

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I have had a problem with my air conditioning for a while. I do get cooling intermittently after I reset the codes.
My codes are as follows:

Eb 416
Eb 241

I did recharge a few months ago but continue to have problems.
What is likely to be the most likely cause and can I fix it myself ?
I am somewhat adept at repairing cars but never really tackled air conditioning problems.
 

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Car is E320, MY2000

Sensor Readings:
Cold Hot 4 hours after driving and parking

82 80 127
76 80 94
87 87 71
87 66 64
84 69 62
107 195 143
66 67 15
82 91 127
27 31 39
2.5 1.9 5.3
2.5 2.5 2.5
4.3 4.0 1.2

Value 20
3.2 3.2 11.4
32 44 44
00 00 0
32 23 32
11.1 13.3 13.3
Value 40

164 164 164
85 85 85
40 40 40
136 136 138
 

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yes, with engine idling.

My AC either goes off with the EC LED illuminated or when I have reset the error codes, it starts to work somewhat, but its never very efficient.
 

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This is another "garbage in > garbage out" exchange.
Why don't you step back and do proper sensor reading? We have link to mercedesmedic site how to do it (in stickies) and it was posted in other threads filled up with clutter.
 

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With due respect.

The readings and error codes I have provided are a result of the procedure from what I have read here.

I appreciate the help, but not the arrogance!
 

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Here is not a good guidance, that is why relatively simple procedure has 300 replies with no good solutions.
Go to linked mercedesmedic site and do the procedure the right way.
Takes about 90 seconds on those cars and once you post clear readings, in 90% of situations you will have straight solution in single reply.
 

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yes, with engine idling.

My AC either goes off with the EC LED illuminated or when I have reset the error codes, it starts to work somewhat, but its never very efficient.
Yes, thanks for updating the post with sensor readings. The engine running and a/c on refrigerant pressure figure of 15 Bars makes more sense. Also provide readings with the engine off and cool sensor readings as you did before.

I do not see any problem with the refrigerant pressure when a/c is running at idle. If you have the EC light coming up with that level of pressure, it is either a mechanical issue, or an electrical issue with the sensor. So do the measurements with the engine off and cold and post here, again.

BTW: Did you post this problem before ? I seem to remember it. And also the background noise.
 

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I did post the problem before on a different thread. When the EC led stays on and it does not cool i get the error codes. When I clear the codes, the AC starts working, although not very well.
I am trying to figure out the cause of the system going into the EC mode by itself and not allowing me to turn it off. Does the system detect something that causes the AC controller to turn off the compressor? However, it cannot be permanent since I can reset it by clearing the codes.

Anyway, I am looking for possible causes.
If the problem was permanent,, perhaps it would be easier to diagnose.
I will post the values with the engine cold tomorrow morning.
I really do appreciate the help; and I am an engineer trying to understand the fundamental cause by leveraging the experience of fellow E320 owners -- bear with me.
 

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I did post the problem before on a different thread. When the EC led stays on and it does not cool i get the error codes. When I clear the codes, the AC starts working, although not very well.
I am trying to figure out the cause of the system going into the EC mode by itself and not allowing me to turn it off. Does the system detect something that causes the AC controller to turn off the compressor? However, it cannot be permanent since I can reset it by clearing the codes.

Anyway, I am looking for possible causes.
If the problem was permanent,, perhaps it would be easier to diagnose.
I will post the values with the engine cold tomorrow morning.
I really do appreciate the help; and I am an engineer trying to understand the fundamental cause by leveraging the experience of fellow E320 owners -- bear with me.
Yeah, I remember. I am an engineer too :) It is hard to diagnose an intermittent issue, especially from remote.

The EC light can be turned on by the controller for several reasons. One is when there is not enough refrigerant for the system and this is to protect the compressor as low refrigerant flow causes the compressor to heat up (lack of lubrication) and eventually fail. This is however, a duplicate protection that can be bypassed. The compressor can protect itself with its control valve, letting the compressor to "freewheel". The controller turns the compressor off when low refrigerant is detected.

The other reason is the plausibility issue. The controller registers the initial (static) refrigerant pressure and refrigerant temperature from the sensors. When the a/c is turned on (compressor running), it monitors the rise in refrigerant temperature and pressure readings, and it is not within certain look-up range, it deems that the compressor is not compressing sufficiently, and turns it off.

Your problem being intermittent makes me think about the compressor clutch problem. If the clutch is not always engaged, or somewhat slipping, this will cause drop in output pressure.

Is the compressor original ? If not ? when was it replaced ?

Note: When you reset the fault code after the EC light comes on, it will tell the controller to allow the re-engagement of the compressor. That is the trick (reset) you have to do first when the system does not have any refrigerant and you have to re-fill.

You can disable the refrigerant check by the controller for testing purposes by changing the P2 in the link to 152 (add 16). At the moment you have 136.

STAR TekInfo
 
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