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99' 230slk Sport
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Discussion Starter #1
This weekend the stock HU is coming out and I did get the overdrive by Audiocontrol which should be great with boosting my 2v line outs and matching-up with the Bose amp. My question is where to get power from for this device..it should not take much. Does anyone know if it would be OK to tie into the power to the HU and same for the ground and remote turn on? Grounding should not be an issue nor should connecting the remote in a daisy chain but I'm not sure about the power? All the systems I've installed in my cars I always gave its own power by using a distribution block with fuses. I'm not sure what I should do because I've never used a line driver like this before...any input is appreciated...
 

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99 slk 230 RHD, 66 vw ghia RHD
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i spliced into the mercedes loom, but splicing into the HU loom is just as if not easier

overdrive spec's say it takes 1amp max, so not too much juice .... both battery and accessory feeds are protected by 15A fuses in the merc, so you have PLENTY of power there .... i used the benz accessory feed rather than the on-all-the-time battery feed to power the overdrive

... with 2v pre-outs set the gain on the overdrive to about 1/2 as a ballpark starting place

ground and remote splices can also come from the HU loom

a previous owner had added a 2A inline blade fuse to a second cigarette lighter socket, i tore out that addition when i pulled my interior apart, so i recycled that to fuse the overdrive

remember as you wont be using the HU internal amp, but the Bose one instead, the HU power consumption wont be great, maybe a couple of amps only, and it should run very cool ... my HU has a setting to disable its internal amplifier, and the only warmth comes from the fluoro dotmatrix display
 

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99' 230slk Sport
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Discussion Starter #4
Thanks, Antdavison for your reply. I do understand what you are saying here but I would like to just clarify my understanding. What your telling me is that there should not be a problem taking a power wire from the Overdrive and connecting it with the accessory wire from the HU and the accessory wire for the harness (metra)and crimping them with a connector, that should be fine? And same with the ground and remote? Do you think I should throw a fuse in for the overdrive between the splice and Overdrive?If so a 1amp? Or would it be Ok to use the Overdrive as the splicepoint and put the HU accessory wire and the harness wire directly into the Overdrive power hole and tighten screw and do the remote, ground like that as well? Seems to me that both would work in the same manner but Im not and electrical engineer or anything to know if there would be a difference i.e. current drops , anything like that.
 

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Thanks, Antdavison for your reply. I do understand what you are saying here but I would like to just clarify my understanding. What your telling me is that there should not be a problem taking a power wire from the Overdrive and connecting it with the accessory wire from the HU and the accessory wire for the harness (metra)and crimping them with a connector, that should be fine? And same with the ground and remote? Do you think I should throw a fuse in for the overdrive between the splice and Overdrive?If so a 1amp? Or would it be Ok to use the Overdrive as the splicepoint and put the HU accessory wire and the harness wire directly into the Overdrive power hole and tighten screw and do the remote, ground like that as well? Seems to me that both would work in the same manner but Im not and electrical engineer or anything to know if there would be a difference i.e. current drops , anything like that.
Boths ways should work from your explanation.
 

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99' 230slk Sport
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Discussion Starter #7
Thanks to both Antdavison and the Bazzman! Dick must be busy because I would have though he would have jumped all over this one.
 

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99 slk 230 RHD, 66 vw ghia RHD
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i did fuse my overdrive with a 2A fuse as the stock fuses are very large and would burn the tracks on the overdrives' circuit board before they would blow :) ... my advice would be to use heatshrink and solder to make your splices, rather than crimps .... but that is just me, i tend to over engineer everything i do, but they never fail

.... let me know if you need to know how to remove the the ashtray/coin-holder/cubby-hole (requires removal of the "chrome" gear shift bezel + surrounding [air-bag/power-window-switch] facia), stock HU, and panels to the side of the centre console.

if you are taking out the ashtray/coinholder ... it is easiest to leave the gear shift in NEUTRAL rather than PARK, before you disconnect the negative wire on the battery and generally dis/installing the HU otherwise the shift lever locks into PARK, and makes removal of the ashtray/coin-holder difficult

if you aren't brave enough to disconnect the negative cable from the battery before starting your installation, at least remove the three fuses in the engine bay that fuse the two feeds to the radio/HU and one feed to the amplifier

Splicing to the benz loom rather than the HU's will make changing out to another HU marginally easier, but functionally they are the same

The fat brown earth wire on the Benz/Bose loom bolts to the chassis in two places, one is under the ashtray/coin-holder/cubby-hole, and the second is in the passenger foot well, near the door hinges .. so the earthing points are good and you shouldnt need to add or use more earthing points beyond splicing into the loom... if you are hacking into the benz loom, dont confuse the blue/white remote wire with the blue/grey dash illumination one, otherwise your overdrive will only turn on with your headlights :) they are the same size wire and look very similar

I did measure the total load on the remote circuit ... which turns on the overdrive, bose amplifier and powers the aerial amplifier .... it was 50mA - tiny - my HU had a 200mA limit on its remote turn on

hope your HU has a built in equalizer

Mr DickB did say at one stage the Bose can be driven very hard ... DickB do you know if the Bose has a distortion feed back stage so the amp can be driven as hard as possible, until it reaches a pre determined distortion level, then backs the volume down a little .... i seem to be able to drive my bose quite hard ... i am stilll quite impressed by it, considering its all running of 12-14V with no voltage doubling technology in the amplifier itself, and all 4 big speakers are only 6.5" ... my guess is that each of the 4 amplifiers are running around 30 - 36W rms

previous thread -
http://www.benzworld.org/forums/r170-slk-class/1361561-upgrading-bose-premium-sound-system-2.html
benz HU pinouts / benz wiring colours -
http://www.benzworld.org/forums/r170-slk-class/1365081-help-installing-new-head-unit-01-slk230.html
 

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99' 230slk Sport
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Discussion Starter #10
Antdavison, Since you seem to really know your stuff in terms of making your own connectors and such. I have a question for you. I have an aux input on the rear of my head unit and the aux is a set of RCA's (female). I want to use this aux for my ipod. My question is how to make a set of RCA's to 1/8 jack. I know it can be done and you can buy them but I have to order it and wont have time before my install this weekend. I do have plenty of RCA cables around and I can pick up a 1/8 anywhere. Could you tell me how to make one? Should be fairly easy why spend $25 since I have the supplys, and yes I would like to have instrutions for taking apart the ashtray/shifter housing as I need to connect a simpleroof opener too that connects to wiring under the shifter housing as well.
 

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99 slk 230 RHD, 66 vw ghia RHD
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my advice would be to buy the correct lead as the 1/8" a tiny and the RCA coax wires are also tiny so soldering them togeother requires a fine pointed soldering iron, fine lead-based (rather than the often currently produced ) nickel solder, and some tiny heatshrink.

a shop bought rca-1/8"jack lead will be more reliable, and smaller, and less stress on the ipod's earphone connector, especially if you can find a lead that has a right angled 1/8" jack

instructions for stripping coax wire are at
http://www.benzworld.org/forums/r170-slk-class/1361561-upgrading-bose-premium-sound-system-2.html
as are the instructions for removing the two (heater outlet) panels either side on the centre console which ae located on the central sides of the footwells, this will give you a bit more hand room access
also there is how and where i fitted my overdrive


the two coax earths are twisted togeother and soldered to the longest terminal of the 1/8" jack, the smaller two inner wires go to the smaller two of the jack's terminals, and should be sleeved with small heatshrink ... rather than cutting the insulation around those two thin wires it is easier to run the soldering iron tip around the insualtion where you would have cut it, then pull gently, as it is easy to stress the copper strands and break them

from memory the tip of the jack is left audio, the middle connector on the jack's shaft is right audio, and the largest connector is ground

the gear lever bezel is retained by four tabs two at the front, two at the rear, put a piece of paper under the rear of bezel to feel their location, and pry up from the rear (of the car) .... similarly for the facia ... i will get full instructions from my home computer for you tomorrow

once that facia is off, and you have removed the centre console facia,(two screws exposed at the top of the HU cavity when HU and its mounting cage has been removed) then the four screws holding the ashtray will be visible. the ashtray needs to be twisted through 90 degrees to be removed and installed, and it has a small dash light wihich will undoubtly fall out when you pull it out.

with the gear shift facia removed you will see two biggish screws at the rear of the shifter console. the in-between-the-seats-rear-central-console/armrest is also retained at its rear by two nuts hidden under the carpet floor of the lockable central storage compartment, so lift up the rear of the carpet floor to expose them.

to remove the handbrake lever rubber i left a 60w lightbulb housed in an 'equipose" lamp near the rubber to warm it up.... after 5 minutes the rubber was warm enough to slip off easily, so no need to cut it off or blister your hands... soak it hot water for 5 minutes to put it back on

connectors for the cigarette lighter, roof switch, etc and air line for the storage compartment lock can the be pulled off, and you can instal your simpleroof opener

i cut a square hole in the bottom of the lockable centre storage compartment, and screwed a cut down plastic box it it to hold my ipod, so it is secured by locking the storage compartment, and hidden by the carpet, and surrounded by dacron to cushion it against bumpy roads ... four months later and no hard disk crashes ... but then my ipod is controlled by the HU, so i dont need to access it often

my ipod/HU adaptor also feeds power to the ipod to keep it charged
 

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99' 230slk Sport
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Discussion Starter #12
I'll take your advise and just order the wire I need. Thank You for your wisdom and instruction.
 

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99 slk 230 RHD, 66 vw ghia RHD
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Removing and installing cover on center console
===============================================
01 Disconnect battery ground cable
02 Remove radio
03 Unscrew screws (1, 2 each) in radio cutout
04 Pull cover (2) toward rear and pull out at top on instrument panel (arrow) (2 hooks)
05 Unclip cockpit switch group (S6/1) at catch lugs (4 each)
06 Remove cockpit switch group (S6/1) from cover (2)


Removing and installing cover on gearshift lever
================================================
07 Remove plastic frame (1) upward with long wooden wedge
08 Press cover (2) out of catch in center console at rear and side with long wedge
09 Disconnect electrical connectors (3) on power window switches


Remove/install ashtray housing with stowage compartment in front center console
===============================================================================
10 Unscrew bolts (1) - 4 bolts.
11 Press ashtray housing with stowage compartment (2) to left and remove on right (arrows)
12 Disconnect electrical line connector (arrow)

Removing and installing rear center console (so you can install your simpleroof opener)
===========================================
13 Pull handle (5) off of parking brake
14 Unscrew screws (2)
15 Open cover on stowage compartment
16 Lift carpeting (4) at rear
17 Unscrew nuts (3) and remove
18 Lift center console (2) uniformly out at front with arresting hook point
19 Guide parking handle through retractable cover
20 Disconnect electrical connectors
21 Remove center console (2)

Removing and installing air outlet cover in footwell (to give you a bit more hand access when installing the overdrive)
====================================================
22 Turn screw (1) 90° to left and remove cover (2)
23 Unscrew screw (3)
24 Slide panel (4) forward and remove
25 When installing insert panel (4) behind center console (5) (2 retaining tabs, arrows). Insert the two retaining tabs (arrows) on the panel (4) over the frame on the heater housing air outlet

more details at
http://www.benzworld.org/forums/r170-slk-class/1361561-upgrading-bose-premium-sound-system-2.html
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Now thats a step by step how to...thanks. Just printed and will be using this weekend.
 

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Mr DickB did say at one stage the Bose can be driven very hard ... DickB do you know if the Bose has a distortion feed back stage so the amp can be driven as hard as possible, until it reaches a pre determined distortion level, then backs the volume down a little .... i seem to be able to drive my bose quite hard ... i am stilll quite impressed by it, considering its all running of 12-14V with no voltage doubling technology in the amplifier itself, and all 4 big speakers are only 6.5" ... my guess is that each of the 4 amplifiers are running around 30 - 36W rms
Can't say that I know the internals, but I also intentionally overdrove the amp while designing my adapter, and it was very well behaved - no distortion. The 2 ohm speakers allow more power on lower supply voltage.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
All I can say is WOW!!! I cannot believe how different the stereo sounds after replacing the head unit and with the overdrive in between the amp and HU. That little Bose amp is clean as hell and does pump well for all the haters. Is it competiton grade no but, very clean and sound totally different than with the becker HU. I have taken a couple pics and will throw them up when I'm totaly done...going to tune it and pretty up a couple things tomorrow. Why didnt I do this sooner???
 

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99 slk 230 RHD, 66 vw ghia RHD
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excellent news, dalahi, glad everything worked out for you .... now you just need an ipod or flashdrive controlling HU ... :) .... i went thru the same process as you but in the end i found myself fighting a lack of room in the SLK which i wanted to keep as stock looking as possible... i thought from others posts that the stock HU wasnt driving the Bose amp as hard as it should, and the stocker lacked some processing features like an EQ, digital signal processing, etc
 

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Discussion Starter #18
I actually have a flash drive built in the face plate and I have my Ipod hooked up to the aux. good enough for me I dont need it to say the info on the HU although it would be cool..Got sirrius satalite wired up too...hopefully the 10" jl Sub is going in too...I pre wired the RCA's for this amp..should shound really good..I took a few pics I will post
 

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Discussion Starter #19
A few pics I took during and after the install...sounds much better than expected..very clean...still have the sub to go in but I pre ran RCA's and remote wire for that add on for a later date. I've had this HU in 2 different cars and still love it.
 

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