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Discussion Starter #1
I got a 400E recently, It has ASR problem right away. 30 seconds after I start the car the ASR comes on and stay on. I have tried the following things:
1. Replace the electronic trottle actuator (ETA) with a good working one.
2. Check the fuses in the black box by the passenger side. Everything seems OK
3. Start the car with the brake pedal pressed, to see if the brake switch is bad.
4. I have replaced the engine harness with a known good one.
None of these cured the problem. Anybody has any more ideas.
btw: the oil level light comes on and stay on, even the oil level is checked OK
 

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Check your voltage regulator and battery.
Open up the CAN and check the fuses on the main module.
Some codes need to be cleared and will not reset themselves.
 

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The CAN is the thing that looks like a battery in the front, that tells you the battery is in the trunk. Take off the cover and there are 4 modules inside. One of those has fuses on the top.

Filling out your profile and location would help.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
I already opened that. The one on the lft (looking at the car) has 3 fuses 10 10 and 15. They are all good
 

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Start the car and drive it for about 5 miles to get it full operating temp. Pull over or back into your garage/parking space, while leaving the engine idling. Do NOT turn off the engine.

Turn on ALL your vehicle power eaters (high beams, fogs, rear defrost, A/C, etc.)

Break out the DVOM (digital volt ohm meter), and measure voltage at the battery terminals. Ideally, you should see something around 13.5V. Anything below 13V or above 14V is no good and is usually indicative of a bad voltage regulator.

Also make sure you are using a quality group49 (US) / DIN100 (everywhere else) sized battery only. These cars are VERY sensitive (electrically) and don't do well with a marginal battery.
 

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I already opened that. The one on the lft (looking at the car) has 3 fuses 10 10 and 15. They are all good
Do a search. This has been covered ad naseum. Just because the fuses look good doesn't mean they're good due to corrossion, hairline cracks, old age, etc.

Replace ALL of them (blade, strip & ceramic fuses).
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Thank you all. The car is not here but will test that in the morning. I am in New Jersey. It is already late
 

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Start the car and drive it for about 5 miles to get it full operating temp. Pull over or back into your garage/parking space, while leaving the engine idling. Do NOT turn off the engine.

Turn on ALL your vehicle power eaters (high beams, fogs, rear defrost, A/C, etc.)

Break out the DVOM (digital volt ohm meter), and measure voltage at the battery terminals. Ideally, you should see something around 13.5V. Anything below 13V or above 14V is no good and is usually indicative of a bad voltage regulator.

Also make sure you are using a quality group49 (US) / DIN100 (everywhere else) sized battery only. These cars are VERY sensitive (electrically) and don't do well with a marginal battery.
If the system voltage was low, the SRS light would be on too.

The CAN is the thing that looks like a battery in the front, that tells you the battery is in the trunk. Take off the cover and there are 4 modules inside. One of those has fuses on the top.

Filling out your profile and location would help.
That's the module box, not CAN.

CAN is control area network. It's a seperate harness that connects all the modules
so they can communicate with each other.

The new model Mercedes have so many modules on CAN they have a Central Gateway to control them.
 

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ASR STANDS FOR ANTI -SLIP REGULATION WICH HAS NOTHING TO DO WITH MOTOR.AND IF I REMEMBER RIGHT THERE IS NO FUSE ,BUT RELAY OR MODULE.EVERY WEEL HAS A SPEED SENSOR,SO IF ONE SLIPS,SPINS FASTER MODULE SHOULD EVEN THEM UP . IM SAYING CHECK MASTER CYLINDER FOR BRAKE OIL,MODULE SHOULD BE BEHIND BATERRY AND ITS KIND A BIG,FALLOW BRAKE LINES FROM MC TO ABS,THERE IS A BLACK COVER/SHOULD BE .UNDER NIT OF IT SHOULD BE COUPLE RELAYS.CHECK THEM TOO.
 

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ASR STANDS FOR ANTI -SLIP REGULATION WICH HAS NOTHING TO DO WITH MOTOR.AND IF I REMEMBER RIGHT THERE IS NO FUSE ,BUT RELAY OR MODULE.EVERY WEEL HAS A SPEED SENSOR,SO IF ONE SLIPS,SPINS FASTER MODULE SHOULD EVEN THEM UP . IM SAYING CHECK MASTER CYLINDER FOR BRAKE OIL,MODULE SHOULD BE BEHIND BATERRY AND ITS KIND A BIG,FALLOW BRAKE LINES FROM MC TO ABS,THERE IS A BLACK COVER/SHOULD BE .UNDER NIT OF IT SHOULD BE COUPLE RELAYS.CHECK THEM TOO.
I'm sorry, but i didn't hear you well enough. Could you yell little louder or is the Caps Lock key stuck on???:D:D:D:D
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Voltage tested to be at 14.5V with all accessories on

I tested at the battery. It shows 14,5 V with all lights, heaters, fans on. I guess the regulator is bad.
 
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