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2003 SL600,1990 500SL6.0AMG,1998 SLK230,1998 TVR Chimaera,Toyoita Prius
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Discussion Starter #1
ASR light on and bad acceleration

Hi,

I think this is common problem, but i could not serch...

I sometime met ASR light on and bad acceration problem.

In the signal stop, signal tern to bule and i wish to start, i know ASR light is on and my SL500 can not move properly.
When i met that problem, i will tern off the engine and run again.
ASR light will off and car can move normally...

Please help.

Thanking you.
 

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'97 SL500 & '01 ML320
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Masaki
I didn't think the ASR is linked to the acceleration syste, but I may be wrong.

Just a thought re the poor acceleration - have you checked the Winter / Summer ("W" /"S") switch next to your shifter is not set to winter mode. Winter mode stops one sliding on snow, wet conditions so limits the power to the wheels somehow.

Regards

Alan
 

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ASR = Accelleration Slip Control

Page 92 + 93 in the manual of a 1992 R129

If U mean the orange triangle lighting up it means ASR is activated and it will slow down wheelspin.

If the ASR light on your instrument cluster is on (at the bottom) it might suggest your tires need more air, different tire sizes tend to mess up ASR.
Could be something else wrong with the ASR I'm not an expert.

The "Winter" mode ahmorris talks about is just starting into 2nd gear to minimize wheelspin. (more evenly spread starting force to avoid wheelspin in the first place so ASR doesn't have to come on)
 

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1995 sl 500 red/black w/renntech wheels
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When i drive like a JACK#$% and i am driving the car really hard my light come on and the car has no response to the gas the 1/2 half of the peddle and i have to floor it to go 50 but then i turn it off then on and its ok.
 

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2003 SL500, 2003 SL55, and four R129s
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The problems in this thread describe Limp Home Mode. It has nothing to do with catalytic converters and is instead likely a problem with a component of the electronic throttle. The brake light switch, the gas pedal potentiometer, and the Electronic Throttle Actuator are the most common components to fail.

Possessing a basic electronic multimeter and the diagnostic manual for the electronic throttle which is part of the R129 Tech DVD, WIS, and www.startekinfo.com are useful for accurately diagnosing Limp Mode problems. A means of converting the electronic throttle to purely mechanical control was posted here: http://www.benzworld.org/forums/r129-sl-class/1293916-asr-light-vehicle-not-moving.html?highlight=throttle+linkage#post2167858.
 

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MB CLS550 -09, MB SL600 -94, MB 560SL, MB 170s, Austin Healey Sprite
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My point of view is pure experience, I might be wrong, but I don't think so...

Anyway, easy to test the catalytic converters, just remove the Lambda (or drill a small hole in front of the catalytic converter, must of course be fixed later on), use a "fuel pressure meter", not sure about the correct technical term... It should cost about $10.
When engine is idling, there should almost be no pressure before the converters if working, if you get some pressure below 2000 rpm you need new converters. In my case the meter hit the roof just by touching the throttle.

The Converters have a ceramic core wich WILL break eventually, it might crack if it is cooled down quickly, for instance if sprayed with water. Most definately if you manage to hit the converter with something the core will start coming loose, if it does, just a matter of time until you need a new one.

Ceramic converters from mid 90's seem to live about 100 000-150 000 km, replaced on my BMW at 17 0000km, one of the SL600's I cleared out the core of the converters this summer, (Katalysatorer 070825) exactly the problem described here, it had 160 000 km on the meter. I think the other SL600 has the same problem.
I would NEVER replace the converters with stock ceramic ones, unless MB starts producing converters with metallic core. Replaced the ones in the BMW with two universal ones with metallic core. Will do the same to the Sl600.

This is what happened to me:
While driving, ASR lit up, enginge lost almost all power, went into Limp home mode, stopped car, turned ignition off, started car everything was ok, this might happen directly again or not in days.

As I said, might be wrong, but $10 and about 20 min work to find out.
 

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The ASR system is DEFINITELY connected to the engine management (acceleration) system. The throttle opening is electronically manipulated by the ECU system AS MODIFIED BY THE ASR system. When wheel slippage is detected (or different rear wheel vs front wheel speed), the ASR reduces engine power until that condition is resolved. MOST of the problems , if not a defective accelerator position switch) are caused by wire insulation failing in the cables bundles to the electronic throttle actuators and the engine compartment wiring harnesses. Slip the bundles in the hottest locations and look at the individual wires inside the bundles. Cracking insulation is easy to see, costly to replace. Sometimes (50%?) shorts damage one or more 'computer boxes' requiring their replacement. TOtal cost to remedy the problem can easily reach $10K and even more.
 

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MB CLS550 -09, MB SL600 -94, MB 560SL, MB 170s, Austin Healey Sprite
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Nice thing to know is, clogged catalytic converters will cause ETA's to fail, experienced this phenomena myself. Of course only seen it on V12.

Cable insulation problem is easily checked, not so easily fixed though, unless you want to spend all the money at the dealer. I rebuilt both ETA's and the engine wiring harness, not difficult, but a hassle to do...
 

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2003 SL600,1990 500SL6.0AMG,1998 SLK230,1998 TVR Chimaera,Toyoita Prius
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Discussion Starter #10
Dear
ahmorris
jomzo
tjobeid
GUSMB
robterry99
kebowers

Thank you very much for your kindly advice.

I will try to check cable insulation and cataryc converter in this new year holidays.

After checked these things, i will report the results.
 

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I'd seriously consider doing Bobterry99's tips first, he knows these car's better than anyone on the forum.

If all that doesn't help, change the catalytic converters.

It would be stupid changing something that's not the cause.

& GUSMB, I'm not saying U're a liar, I've been reading this forum for quite some time & when bobterry99 speaks, he is mostly spot on.

:thumbsup:
 

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2003 SL600,1990 500SL6.0AMG,1998 SLK230,1998 TVR Chimaera,Toyoita Prius
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Discussion Starter #12
GUSMB
Could you tell me how you did repair engine harness by yourself?
How did you cover the broken cable insulation?
 

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2003 SL600,1990 500SL6.0AMG,1998 SLK230,1998 TVR Chimaera,Toyoita Prius
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Discussion Starter #13
Jumzo
Thank you for your reply.

About common cable insulation things, i can't understand about mercedes quality.
I once own the w107 450SL 500SL, but i never met that kind of problems.
And my japanese cars also do not met that kind of problem.

Someone said the manufucturer of cable is french company is'nt it??
 

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2003 SL600,1990 500SL6.0AMG,1998 SLK230,1998 TVR Chimaera,Toyoita Prius
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Discussion Starter #14
Place of cables?

Hi

Now i am try to serch the cables.

But sorry to say, i can't find where is cables for accel things.

I am very sorry for biginner question.:bowdown:
 

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MB CLS550 -09, MB SL600 -94, MB 560SL, MB 170s, Austin Healey Sprite
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I'd seriously consider doing Bobterry99's tips first, he knows these car's better than anyone on the forum.

If all that doesn't help, change the catalytic converters.

It would be stupid changing something that's not the cause.

& GUSMB, I'm not saying U're a liar, I've been reading this forum for quite some time & when bobterry99 speaks, he is mostly spot on.

:thumbsup:
Well, I am not saying I disagree, I agree fully, just trying to point in another direction ASWELL. The thing with the catalytic converters is that the car electronics won't recognise it as a fault. No error code, nothing, car just handles as crap. I had mine at MB, they couldn't find the error. Since there are ceramic converters on theese cars and they don't seem to keep up with the rest of the cars agewise. As said, replaced catalytic converters on both my BMW -97 (similar) and one of the SL600s. The Converters seem to last 150 000 - 200 000 km.

The Wireharness should of course be checked, it is a verified problem.
 

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GUSMB
Could you tell me how you did repair engine harness by yourself?
How did you cover the broken cable insulation?
Everything I have done is just for 600, but you might get the idea. Cables inside the ETA:

More pictures: Spjällhuskablage 070104

Repaired engine harness:




Good instructions for repairing the harness is found here:
V12 Uber Alles, Repair Help for Mercedes Benz S600 V12 W140

I bought some high temp spec cables and shielding for the cables, soldered a lot, toock me about 3 evenings to do.
 

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2003 SL500, 2003 SL55, and four R129s
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I will try to check cable insulation and cataryc converter in this new year holidays.
If your goal is to solve the problem you originally stated, then I firmly believe you are wasting your time. You have been given some good information about catalytic converters and wiring harnesses. But in regard to wiring, your car is a '92, and the engine wiring insulation did not become an issue until '93. And regarding the catalytic converters, these have nothing at all to do with the operation of the electronic throttle, which is indicated as your problem by the fact that the ASR light comes on and that the problem resets when the key is switched to off.

...I can't find where is cables for accel things.
The ETA is mounted at the top, front, center of the engine. It's location and all the components that you should check are shown in the diagnostic manual that I mentioned to you in my previous post to this thread.
 

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2003 SL500, 2007 E350, 1972 350SL
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ASR/ABS Lights on

I have been struggling with an ASR problem on my R129 1995 SL 500.

It started as an intermittent ASR light and Limp Mode. Very frustrating! I changed the brake light switch as suggested on the Mercedes Forum. No help.

I guess the good news is that it finally became a permanent problem with both the ASR and ABS lights as well as a check engine light on continuously.

To alleviate the permanent limp mode driving nightmare I installed the temp fix to the throttle cable. At least the car is now drivable. BTW, the ABS still operates. The idle RPM in park is about 1000.

I have replaced the ETA ($600 for a rebuilt). However, it did not solve the problem. To be sure, I removed and returned the ETA for a recheck at the seller. He verified that it is working properly. After reinstalling again...no change to the symptoms.

I have checked tire pressure, rotated tires, checked all wheel sensors, reviewed shop manual DVD. I have checked all the wiring between the ETA and the N3/1 module connector in the module box. All solid and no shorts.

I built the DTC reader and the car is throwing the following codes:

Pin 6 – Code 30 ASR only CAN Bus to EA/CC/ISC control module interrupted

Pin 7 – Code 3 Right EA/CC/ISC (Left cylinder Bank)(M16/1)

Pin 19 – Code 6 Idle Speed Control Faulty (clears, light off for two or three drive cycles before returning)

I read that it could possibly be the neutral safety switch (starter lockout switch) Could this replacement be indicated per the above codes? Would this restore the throttle to normal? Extinguish the ASR light?
Is there any tests or checks I could do for either the NS switch or maybe the EA module?

Any advice or insight you could provide would be greatly appreciated.
 

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I have exactly the same problem as you Mcknuke, except the Pin 19 fault. I too am going to check out the starter lockout switch. I have just collected my car from an independant garage who tried 3 different diagnostic machines on the car. The Snap-On machines could not communicate with the car, and the Bosch machine communicated but did not pick up any fault codes. The codes are definitely there with my home-made pulse counter. They do clear but come back as soon as ignition is switched on again. I too have had the ETA rebuilt and tested. If I can't find any problems with the lockout switch then I think it is time to send the E-Gas control module for testing. Please keep us informed of how you get on.
 

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2003 SL500, 2003 SL55, and four R129s
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I have checked tire pressure, rotated tires, checked all wheel sensors, reviewed shop manual DVD.
I believe you really need to have Tech DVD or the WIS to troubleshoot this problem, and fortunuately you do.

I don't know how the neutral-safety switch could possibly be involved in this problem. But it is easy to check. If you look at your schematic for the starter motor (Group 15 of the ETM) you will see that a signal from the switch goes to the fuel injection controller. That would be a convenient, easy place to check the switch.

If you look at the diagnostic manuals on your disk you will find that for each code you find it gives specific instructions for further electrical testing.
Those are the steps I recommend taking. You should probably undo the modifications you made to the throttle before proceding. Notice that the code 3 you got for the EA could be half a dozen different things.

For the check engine light I would read codes from the fuel injection.
 
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