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Discussion Starter #1
Hi.
The last week my car have had a few stops.. Not complete stops, but the ASR light comes on, and the car goes into limp-mode.
I've found that I can accellerate if I push the accpedal more than halfway. So the kickdown function activates..
If I stop the engine, and restart all functions well.

I tried a local shop and they found that there was a fault with the CAN-BUS 015, and Accellerator /throttle sensor (030)

Where is that ?
Could it be the wiring that has problems round the sensor ?? Where ever it is..
 

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Ok first point, there is no can bus on your car.. unless it has been re fitted by mb. ASR is caused by a multitude of things.. so best start with the simple ones.. and work up to the complex ..First Tyres are they all the same size and the same pressure and the same tread wear..+/- 5% will make a difference. does your asr light come on when cornering or driving staight.. then have you cleansed your abs sensors recently, if at all?
 

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Discussion Starter #3
The tyres are fine. No problem there.
I recently had a garage change my left front wheel-bearing, and another garage change the rear left wheelbearing.
Then, last week I changed the front right wheelbearing, AND cleaned the ABS-sensor. Which was very dirty..
And, when trying to push the new bearing in, it stopped right away. And I had to use a small hammer to get the beraing off again.. Then used some very fine sandpaper, for a few seconds..
Then the wheelbearing came into the right place..propably some tine debris on the axle.

I thought about the sensor while hammering, but it was only a light hammering. So I thought it should work fine..

I didn't think my car had a can-bus-system. But the garage used a multiinstrument, on the 38-pin plug..
And the only fault he found was the throttlecontrol-sensor.. (Or whatever the name was)
 

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If you have a 38 connector you should read the codes yourself - the best way to really be sure what you're getting.
 

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The tyres are fine. No problem there.
I recently had a garage change my left front wheel-bearing, and another garage change the rear left wheelbearing.
Then, last week I changed the front right wheelbearing, AND cleaned the ABS-sensor. Which was very dirty..
And, when trying to push the new bearing in, it stopped right away. And I had to use a small hammer to get the beraing off again.. Then used some very fine sandpaper, for a few seconds..
Then the wheelbearing came into the right place..propably some tine debris on the axle.

I thought about the sensor while hammering, but it was only a light hammering. So I thought it should work fine..

I didn't think my car had a can-bus-system. But the garage used a multiinstrument, on the 38-pin plug..
And the only fault he found was the throttlecontrol-sensor.. (Or whatever the name was)

hmmm !! I have to tell you, that in my expirence HAMMERS and MB do not go together.. and you have possibly damaged the abs sensor.. you can remove it to check by removing front wheel.. turn lock all the way over, there are two small bolts holding it in.. remove those and check.. and look down the hole to see if the sensor ring is damaged..
 

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This sounds like the problem I have with my car.

Some times the car goes in to "limp mode" or rough run/idel and it only happens when standing still on idle or with D in.

After a restart the problem is gone.

My mechanic didnt found any thing wrong with the car so he blamed the poor fuel quality nowadays.

I dont know about that... :rolleyes:

But today I took the distributors off to check them.
There where a lot of verdigris/corrosion inside on the contact points.
I sanded them and put them back in place.
After a long drive I have'nt had any more problem but it could sometimes be days between the symptoms.

Check the distributor.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
There's no sensorring on my car..
It's only a small flat, magletlike ABS-sensor mounted in the brake-shield. And, what you refer to as the sensorring, is at the back of the wheelhub itself.. A kind of sawtoothed pattern at the hub itself..
My car is number 000987... So I've heard that I have an older type of ABS on my car.
Check out this pic..
Êàòàëîã

So, I havn't used the hammer directly on any parts of the brakes..
 

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Erik.. You cannot have ASR without ABS..You have sensors..but if you have a different system then I cant help you. In a normal system they are on at least 3 of the wheels, and on the steering.. find the three at the frnt and check them out.. if you have a scope use that.. if not you can use a voltmeter.. These are the simple things..
 

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This sounds like the problem I have with my car.

Some times the car goes in to "limp mode" or rough run/idel and it only happens when standing still on idle or with D in.

After a restart the problem is gone.

My mechanic didnt found any thing wrong with the car so he blamed the poor fuel quality nowadays.

I dont know about that... :rolleyes:

But today I took the distributors off to check them.
There where a lot of verdigris/corrosion inside on the contact points.
I sanded them and put them back in place.
After a long drive I have'nt had any more problem but it could sometimes be days between the symptoms.

Check the distributor.
need to work through from the start Erik has his own methods of repair, I dont know how far you can go with this
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Don't see the point of the last post.. ?
My car has ABS and ASR. As far as I know it has 4 sensors, because the ASR really works.. Never any sliding on my (rear) wheels..
Just wondered why the first thing asked, was to check out is the ABS-sensors, when a diagnosistool said it was a problem with the throttle posision sensor...

The ASR problem happens just a few times, the ABS works ok, and the ASR seem to work ok..
Don't mean to be rude or anything like that, I appreciate any/all sugestions..
 

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ASR .. It can be caused by the throtle sensor.. and the motion sensors and the steering sensor and the gearbox sensor amd the pich and yaw sensor and the wheel sensors... shall i go on ? if you start with the no cost options first.. It dont cost you meggabucks to fix it.. plus you get to know your car.. do you wash it yourself ????
 

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plus you say you mechanic says can bus.. well he is talking out of his !!!! you dont have one.. and you do not know this but there are three types of 38 pin plugs in use on the mb star system....did you get a print out?
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Yes, I wash my car every sunday.. Myself..

Of course, chacking that the ABS sensors are clean is a no cost option.. And A good sugestion of course..

The mechanic I asked works at a car-electronics company, specializing in BMW and Mercedes-Benz. He's the local BOSCH dealer..

He had some sort of special instrument with a touch-screen. Wich he connected to the 38pin plug inside the hole of the "main-system-box" on the right side of the car..
He then went into different menues. Choosed Mercedes--> S-class-->W140-->and so on..
Then the system checked the car, and got two lines on the screen..
015 1 error found in can-bus and 030 Throttle sensor malfuntion..
I know the car don't have a full can-bus system like the later 140's I just repeat the error message the diagnosis-thing told me..
I'm just guessing that the can-bus line is some sort of header for the actual fault.
 

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He got those codes on which pin? Sound fishy to me. I still say the way to get the codes is to read them yourself with the home built flash code reader.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
I don't have access to radio-shack.. So the numbers on the building-plan doesn't tell me anything. As it seems like they are radioshack-part-numbers.
Havn't looked further into that yet..

The mechanic used a complete plug that was put into the whole 38 pin connector innside the main box.. So I don't know what pin the fault codes came from..
 

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The mechanic used a complete plug that was put into the whole 38 pin connector innside the main box.. So I don't know what pin the fault codes came from..
I'd want to know - just to be sure. 140 bodies had several different diagnostic systems and fault code lists over their lifetime. For an early 4.2 the only pin with a code 15 and code 30 is pin 6 - "ABS and ABS with ASR" where code 15 is "ABS/ASR Control Module" and code 30 is "CAN data line to Electronic Actuator/Cruise Control/Idle Speed Control Module". When it comes to fault codes it's important to know which pin and to get the right code list - giberish otherwise. To that point the above is for U.S. - Norway could be different, not likely though.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Ok..
I don't think he knows wich pin the result came from.. All I know is that he choose a bunch of different menues, and ended up in a ASR menue..
I'll try another garage the nesxt time, cause I heard that another local garage had a Mercedes diagnosis system..

And, I havn't had the fault for a couple of days !! Fingers crossed..
I'll get back to the issue when I have more info to work on..
 

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I have the same problem with my 1995 S600

I took it to a local mech and he used a real MBZ Star scanner and not some mickey mouse stuff

this is what he found _ code 15 and 30 - same what the previous post had
code 15 and code 30 is pin 6 - "ABS and ABS with ASR" where code 15 is "ABS/ASR Control Module" and code 30 is "CAN data line to Electronic Actuator/Cruise Control/Idle Speed Control Module".

now before you bash the guy let me say this - he did not charge me a dime for it nor did he offer to get the part for me and install it
He did this on friday night after 5 pm and he gave me lots of mbz pointers.
He did not want any money for me to pay him as I even wanted him to change the oil at least on it so he can make so money but he refused it that too.
He was very nice as we talked shop, cars and MBZ
I am a weekend warrior and have used the online diagnostic tool and it led me to the module but I wanted to be sure so that why I took it to the pro.

So now with all the posts so far my question is this to the guys here- do you go ahead and replace electronic accelerator module /control unit part # 140-545-82-32 ( good luck finding one/) like the mechanic said or do you poke around for something smaller and cheaper as indicated in previous multi posts
Damn I hate being an engineer we have to analyze everything to death
 

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This weekend my car didnt want to start.
I told you the car have been running rough for a while and now it doesnt want to start.

After a half day work with it I ended up with a broken rotor on the driver side.

So maybe measure the rotor to see if you have complete contact over it.
 
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