Mercedes-Benz Forum banner

1 - 20 of 22 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
36 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
I have a quick question to those who have installed HID products to their benz. I currently have a set of H7 HID's for my CLK W209. The only problem that I have noticed is that when the car is cold (cold start), the HID's don't work. For some reason, my car needs to be warmed before it turns on. Any solutions would be helpful...
Thanks
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5,092 Posts
Hard to tell what you have.

"H7" is the name of a halogen bulb, which is NOT HID.

The OE HID lights do still use H7 halogen bulbs for the high beam (because HIDs don't light up fast enough to be flashers).

If you do indeed have the OE zenons, you may have a problem with the ballast or just need a new burner. There is a noticeable warmup required for any HID light, of course, but it's just seconds.

If you have an aftermarket conversion, who knows?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
159 Posts
We have them on our 2000 ML 320. The hid's on ours are a after market kit. We have no issues with cold weather start up. They are not as bright when you first turn them on but within 5-10 seconds they are fully warmed up and ready to rock. I'm looking to get another set for the Saab and for the Range Rover now:thumbsup:

Either way I would say you have a issue with yours they should turn on in any temperature.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
686 Posts
I have a quick question to those who have installed HID products to their benz. I currently have a set of H7 HID's for my CLK W209. The only problem that I have noticed is that when the car is cold (cold start), the HID's don't work. For some reason, my car needs to be warmed before it turns on. Any solutions would be helpful...
Thanks
Aftermarket HID's have all sorts of reliability issues and yours is one of them. The real problem is that sometimes the issues are not always apparent right away and you get a kit that works for a few months and then the problems start. This is why many kits have such short warranty periods.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
36 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
well i found a solution... somewhat tedious but it gets the job done. First i must warm my car up for about a minute or two, turn off the car, switch the HIDs on and start the car again. after that, it should work and if it doesnt ...i repeat the process by letting the car warm up and then starting it up again.

btw i have an after market HID kit
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
686 Posts
well i found a solution... somewhat tedious but it gets the job done. First i must warm my car up for about a minute or two, turn off the car, switch the HIDs on and start the car again. after that, it should work and if it doesnt ...i repeat the process by letting the car warm up and then starting it up again.

btw i have an after market HID kit
yep... ive seen that exact problem. We used to install alot of the nice german HID kits and even they had reliability issues at about the year mark.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
421 Posts
The HID kits are so inexpensive that if you got a year or two of out them....thats not all bad.

They are around $100-$200 now.

The factory kit is well over $1000.

Check out xenoneyes.com. I have their kit and they have an awesome extended warranty.

Joe
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
67 Posts
Just a tip....

there are several HID's out there, and I don't mean brand of HID conversions...forget who makes it....that's not important, by "types" I mean there are:

Japanese made/china assembled
Chinese made/china assembled
German made/china assembled
German made/German assembled

You want German made/German assembled, anything assembled in China has no minimum specifications it needs to meet before being packaged and shipped (hence why most everything is assembled there and shipped out) The German assembled conversion kits are remakes of OEM versions, and are held to the same quality standards. This is still no promise you won't have "aftermarket issues" but it's a step in the right direction.

Other things you want to look for that will make for a more reliable system....is the ignitor internal (in the balast components) or is it external (will be somewhere between the light plug and balast, sealed with wire shrink tube), and internal ignitor is more reliable. External ignitors can fry the balast if the lights are turned on and then off before the lights properly warm up.

***MOST AFTERMARKET HID KITS ARE SENSITIVE TO BEING TURNED ON AND OFF QUICKLY OR REPEATEDLY***

Second is how is the ballast built, what electronics were used....remember that ballast converts 12v to 20,000volts to ignite the Xenon gas inside the bulb, if cheap parts are used the ballast will fry very quickly.

Is the ballast sealed from the elements (MOST AFTERMARKET KITS, ESPECIALLY THOSE UNDER $300 ARE NOT SEALED FROM THE ELEMENTS, THEY ARE ONLY RESISTANT TO THE ELEMENTS)

And if you can afford the extra money, purchase a kit that uses not only an internal ignitor but and digital ballast. Digital ballasts have no power spike at turn on, this power spike that can occur in cheaper (non digital ballasts) is what fries the ballast.

And last but not least, most aftermarket ballasts are only warranteed and guaranteed to work for 2 years....so do some research on the product you are buying, and spend some extra money for a better quality conversion kit if you want to avoid the regular issues most have.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
26 Posts
Aftermarket HID Lights - WARNING

Hello -

I have a 2006 Mercedes CLS 500. I had aftermarket HID lights installed in my car about 3 months ago. Since that time, I have been through 3 ballasts for the driver's side light.

During my most recent trip to the auto accessories store that installed the lights, the lead installer spoke with a former Mercedes technician about the light ballast problem. The Mercedes technician said that there are several setting changes in the Mercedes systems management computer that must be made for HID lights to work properly. Usually, these settings are updated by the factory or dealership when the original Mercedes HIDs are installed.

From what I understand, the HID-specific settings change the power requirements for the lights. Most auto accessories stores may not know about these settings or have a way to update the HID-specific settings on the Mercedes on-board computer. It now appears that having inappropriate settings in the systems management computer result in the incorrect amount of power being sent the HID light ballasts, causing them to burn out. Fortunately, I know a former Mercedes technician who will update the HID-specific settings in my systems management computer. I will let everyone know if those changes fix the ballast problem.

Just remember to ask your installer if he can make the appropriate changes on the Mercedes system management computer before you buy aftermarket HID lights. I am not sure if a Mercedes dealer will make the setting changes for you if you do not purchase the Mercedes HID lights, but it does not cost anything to ask.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
36 Posts
Discussion Starter #10
thanks. please let us all know. I will try to take a pic of the ballasts and everything soon and post it on the forums. hopefully that will help. i think paid about 200 for the kit. I had to install it myself but one of my friends who helped me installed it into 5 different cars and they still work. the bulbs still work, but the car just needs to be warmed up before being turned on. its kind of a pain but it is worth the 8000k projection. IMO
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1 Posts
mr wonderful is correct.
most HID kits will not last very long and will cause all kinds of problems, the most common problems being flickering, intermittent operation, and radio interferance. as he mentioned the best HID kits on the market use digital ballasts with what is called DSP technology Digital Signal Processing. Basically the ballast has a chip inside to help regulate the voltage and eliminate voltage spikes that drastically shorten the lifespan of the ballasts. The kits that my company sells come with a lifetime warranty on the ballast, and 1 year on the bulb. They will not have any issues at all.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
67 Posts
Hello -

I have a 2006 Mercedes CLS 500. I had aftermarket HID lights installed in my car about 3 months ago. Since that time, I have been through 3 ballasts for the driver's side light.

During my most recent trip to the auto accessories store that installed the lights, the lead installer spoke with a former Mercedes technician about the light ballast problem. The Mercedes technician said that there are several setting changes in the Mercedes systems management computer that must be made for HID lights to work properly. Usually, these settings are updated by the factory or dealership when the original Mercedes HIDs are installed.

From what I understand, the HID-specific settings change the power requirements for the lights. Most auto accessories stores may not know about these settings or have a way to update the HID-specific settings on the Mercedes on-board computer. It now appears that having inappropriate settings in the systems management computer result in the incorrect amount of power being sent the HID light ballasts, causing them to burn out. Fortunately, I know a former Mercedes technician who will update the HID-specific settings in my systems management computer. I will let everyone know if those changes fix the ballast problem.

Just remember to ask your installer if he can make the appropriate changes on the Mercedes system management computer before you buy aftermarket HID lights. I am not sure if a Mercedes dealer will make the setting changes for you if you do not purchase the Mercedes HID lights, but it does not cost anything to ask.
I had this long technical post written up so explain this, but it was way too long and people wouldn't have wanted to read it....so let me say, first I hope you aren't offended by this, I don't mean to be rude...but this is not true. It's not even a remote possibility.

There are no "HID specific settings" especially not for a kit that uses an input range of 9 - 18 volts, and a Mercedes using a conventional Hallogen bulb (which is what you would have if you don't have a HID kit) sends 12 volts to the bulbs. 12 volts going to the plug, 9 - 18 needed for the ballast input....sounds like the right voltage to me.

And because I believe in backing "hey you are wrong" with something besides "hey you are wrong"

First...let's make this real quick and really simple (I already did this on my all three of my Mercedes, so I'm not talking out of my ass) just take a multimeter to your car, unplug the dam harness from the bulbs one at a time....turn on the headlight circuit and use the multimeter....if, and you will, get any voltage between 9 and 18 volts. Then your buddy was wrong, is wrong.

Second, that's not how the kits are designed...."plug and play"....they have to be...they couldn't require you to go to Mercedes to have the ECU perameters changed. Why you ask? Aftermarket headlights, no matter what the company or salesman tells you, are not DOT approved. No, headlight, turn marker, or break lenses that are not factory items have a DOT approval for any make/model car in the united states. So, that means Merecedes would never do this even if it could and needed to be done...they won't help you make a part that is not approved and test by the DOT work in your car. That puts them liable if the part fails and damages are insued by said failure of said illegal part.

3rd....why are there so many people who don't have ballasts fail....or any problems and so few cases of failure if such a setting needed to be changed and no one has been doing it. (which could have been caused by 100 different things, most of which statistically probably have more to do with the product not being installed in a manor that didn't damage the ballast or epose it to excessive moisture or heat by placing it in the wrong place in the engine bay)

So I mean that's the skinny of it....I spared you the long drawn out technical version of why this is just propoganda and not fact of anykind.....but trust me when I say there's plenty more reasons this is not accurate information, and that the truth is people don't need to go to Merecedes and have anything done for a HID kit.

here read this I'm under the impression that people just don't quite understand what HID systems are, how they work...and why they work the way they do...this is basic but it covers most of the misconceptions that are floating around.

XenonRider.com - Xenon Rider Automotive Xenon & Bi-Xenon HID (High Intensity Discharge) Headlight Conversion Kits for Cars & Motorcycles
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
67 Posts
I think I may know what these mystery settings are he is reffering to....but still my advice and answer was correct...it's not something that can be "changed" persay....but they can be turned on and off. And you don't need to go to the dealership to do it....certain models have certain features wich operate by sending reduced voltage to certain portions of the lighting system.

Mainly, day time running lights, and the autodimming light feature. But to the best of my knowledge the low beam circuit is not effected by these features....and since most if not all models. At least current models that you would justify the $400 for an HID kit, all use 2 H7 bulbs (1 per side) for low beam, and then 2 seperate H7 bulbs for the high beam....only the low beam gets replaced when doing a conversion kit. You do not need a BI-Xenon bulb...and since even the factory HID kits only have the HID on low beam and seperate high beam bulb....and still have the same features mentioned above as well as non HID version.....I'm guessing the low beam circuit is not effected by this.

I again didn't want to drag out some long tech answer, use the link in my above reply and there is a question and answer regarding this very subject about reduced voltage, and explains what will happen if these features effect the HID by sending it reduced voltage.....the end result is ballast failure because it's not programmed to stop trying to make the proper voltage. So it will work entirely too hard trying to make that recuced signal into the same voltage, and then eventually fry.

But again, consider how many people never have a ballast fry on them....failure is due to install error/lack of proper product knowledge.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
67 Posts
mr wonderful is correct.
most HID kits will not last very long and will cause all kinds of problems, the most common problems being flickering, intermittent operation, and radio interferance. as he mentioned the best HID kits on the market use digital ballasts with what is called DSP technology Digital Signal Processing. Basically the ballast has a chip inside to help regulate the voltage and eliminate voltage spikes that drastically shorten the lifespan of the ballasts. The kits that my company sells come with a lifetime warranty on the ballast, and 1 year on the bulb. They will not have any issues at all.
DSP technology Digital Signal Processing

AND WHILE I'M JUST TYPING AWAY....ONE KIT THAT IS NOT DIGITAL AND EVEN HAS AN EXTERNAL IGNITOR, AND IS UNDER $300.....YOU KNOW ALL 3 OF THE THINGS I SAID TO AVOID....BUT HAS A GREAT RELIABILITY RATE, WORKS GREAT, OPERATES CORRECTLY McCULLOCH HID KITS. THEY EVEN SELL REPLACEMENT BALLASTS AT UNDER $100 EACH. RARELY DO BOTH FAIL, AND IF THEY BOTH DO IT'S NEVER AT THE SAME TIME....SO EVEN IF YOU FRY ONE...YOU DON'T HAVE TO BUY THE WHOLE KIT OVER WITH THEIR KIT.

Yes this is a feature that you should look for, and if you can afford it purchase a kit with this feature.

And.....really I'm serious when I say this, if you want to understand HID systems, and ballasts completely...how they work, they different types....or the big ones like "is digital really better, how much, and why" or "what exactly does DSP do and how does it make for a better ballast".....go buy a "hydroponic gardening" book that explains indoor horticulture in detail or go to your local hydro store. I know it seems odd, but their lighting systems use the same ballasts, just bigger versions because they operate 400, 1000, and 4,000 watt bulbs. But as far as understanding digital vers. non and all the pros and cons...without all the bullshit and myths and misinformation, they'll be your most accurate and informative source for any questions you will have. Just remember, they are a horticultural store...so they will refer to Metal Halide or High Pressure Sodium bulbs not xenon...but the ballasts that power them operate identical. I believe both types of bulbs operate at or near the same volts....in fact a metal halide bulb is rated at 6000 degrees kelvin like the HID system. They truely are nearly identical.

Hope all this helped
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
686 Posts
I had this long technical post written up so explain this, but it was way too long and people wouldn't have wanted to read it....so let me say, first I hope you aren't offended by this, I don't mean to be rude...but this is not true. It's not even a remote possibility.

There are no "HID specific settings" especially not for a kit that uses an input range of 9 - 18 volts, and a Mercedes using a conventional Hallogen bulb (which is what you would have if you don't have a HID kit) sends 12 volts to the bulbs. 12 volts going to the plug, 9 - 18 needed for the ballast input....sounds like the right voltage to me.

And because I believe in backing "hey you are wrong" with something besides "hey you are wrong"

First...let's make this real quick and really simple (I already did this on my all three of my Mercedes, so I'm not talking out of my ass) just take a multimeter to your car, unplug the dam harness from the bulbs one at a time....turn on the headlight circuit and use the multimeter....if, and you will, get any voltage between 9 and 18 volts. Then your buddy was wrong, is wrong.

Second, that's not how the kits are designed...."plug and play"....they have to be...they couldn't require you to go to Mercedes to have the ECU perameters changed. Why you ask? Aftermarket headlights, no matter what the company or salesman tells you, are not DOT approved. No, headlight, turn marker, or break lenses that are not factory items have a DOT approval for any make/model car in the united states. So, that means Merecedes would never do this even if it could and needed to be done...they won't help you make a part that is not approved and test by the DOT work in your car. That puts them liable if the part fails and damages are insued by said failure of said illegal part.

3rd....why are there so many people who don't have ballasts fail....or any problems and so few cases of failure if such a setting needed to be changed and no one has been doing it. (which could have been caused by 100 different things, most of which statistically probably have more to do with the product not being installed in a manor that didn't damage the ballast or epose it to excessive moisture or heat by placing it in the wrong place in the engine bay)

So I mean that's the skinny of it....I spared you the long drawn out technical version of why this is just propoganda and not fact of anykind.....but trust me when I say there's plenty more reasons this is not accurate information, and that the truth is people don't need to go to Merecedes and have anything done for a HID kit.

here read this I'm under the impression that people just don't quite understand what HID systems are, how they work...and why they work the way they do...this is basic but it covers most of the misconceptions that are floating around.

XenonRider.com - Xenon Rider Automotive Xenon & Bi-Xenon HID (High Intensity Discharge) Headlight Conversion Kits for Cars & Motorcycles

You are misinformed. This is a proven fact that anyone can verify with a call to mercedes service. Mercedes has a set of control units called the front and rear SAM (signal acquisition module) and one of its functions is to regularly check the resistance that it finds across the wires of each bulb in the exterior lighting system. The purpose is obvious; if your bulb goes out then it warns you...

The problem with HID lighting is not one of voltage, the SAM sees the high resistance of the HID ballast instead of the low (2-4 ohm resistance of the bulb and it thinks the bulb has gone out and then pops a warning on the display and cuts voltage. Some mercedes have factory HID so they left a settings change in the SAM that can be reprogrammed using the mercedes SDS machine. If you reprogram to HID then the SAM stops performing the check and you stop getting errors.

I know this because I do this every day and can rely on factual evidence rather than guesses. but like i said, dont take my word for it, call mercedes service and ask them, just dont give out incorrect information.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
686 Posts
mr wonderful is correct.
most HID kits will not last very long and will cause all kinds of problems, the most common problems being flickering, intermittent operation, and radio interferance. as he mentioned the best HID kits on the market use digital ballasts with what is called DSP technology Digital Signal Processing. Basically the ballast has a chip inside to help regulate the voltage and eliminate voltage spikes that drastically shorten the lifespan of the ballasts. The kits that my company sells come with a lifetime warranty on the ballast, and 1 year on the bulb. They will not have any issues at all.
Do have any other bulbs that you can warranty for longer than a year. We do alot of HID installations for the dealer and the big problem is warranty issues (e.g. factory HID is warrantied for 3 years). Im looking for something that is finally comparable to factory HID.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
67 Posts
You are misinformed. This is a proven fact that anyone can verify with a call to mercedes service. Mercedes has a set of control units called the front and rear SAM (signal acquisition module) and one of its functions is to regularly check the resistance that it finds across the wires of each bulb in the exterior lighting system. The purpose is obvious; if your bulb goes out then it warns you...

The problem with HID lighting is not one of voltage, the SAM sees the high resistance of the HID ballast instead of the low (2-4 ohm resistance of the bulb and it thinks the bulb has gone out and then pops a warning on the display and cuts voltage. Some mercedes have factory HID so they left a settings change in the SAM that can be reprogrammed using the mercedes SDS machine. If you reprogram to HID then the SAM stops performing the check and you stop getting errors.

I know this because I do this every day and can rely on factual evidence rather than guesses. but like i said, dont take my word for it, call mercedes service and ask them, just dont give out incorrect information.
First of all, I hope that guesses thing wasn't directed at me...I'm not guessing nor am I misinformed. Call Mercedes...why because they are gods...first of all the dealership is the last place I'm going to call. Everyone on the planet knows their answers are opinionated with the profit of their sales department in mind because dealerships make squat off sales...the largest portion of their proffit comes from sales and return service calls.

Now, what part of what I said was misinformed...let's start with this, you read what you wanted to see. I never even touched on the subject of a bulb outage code, so why are you correcting me on a subject that wasn't discussed?? What he said, was two things: 1. aftermarket HID kits require an ECU reprogram to send the proper voltage to the system

-which is incorrect, no it doesn't need that...and it sends the voltage just fine.

and that's not the whole of it either, but I think I said I was trying to keep what I had to say short, and spare all the technical drawn out explinations.

Second thing he said
"The cause of failing ballasts, was due to this reprogram not being done"

-Again this is wrong, and that is what I said.

And there are not HID specific settings, there may or may not be a circuit check problem to fix....but I'll get to that in a second.

So....I corrected someone, who was inaccurate...so it's only fair someone do it to me, if in fact I was incorrect. But see, all that takes is citing reasons why I am incorrect, if I was. But you had to go and pull that, I know better than your "guesses" because I do this everyday.

Well....as is typical with that comment....I will now have to point out how inexperienced you just showed you are, and made it worse be telling us how experienced you are. So you do this everyday, and haven't put the simple math equation together 2 + 2=4. Now I'll spare you the resume run down of how long I've been doing this, since before these precious conversion kits were available and just cut straight to the solutions you should already know with all your infinite wisdom from doing this everyday.

1. The not so, "everyone can do this or will even think of this" solution....that minor little inconvience you talk about, which like I said about the other post, doesn't need any reprogramming from Mercedes. (but I did call them, ask them...and as expected they gave me your answer. And then I told them what I'm going to tell you, but of course as a dealership they prefer the conservitive fix of charging you an arm and leg for work at their facilities.

The problem is caused by a system check, that works on the basic principle of resistance....but you already knew that...you told me, what you apparently thought I didn't know. So....experience would tell us, trick the ECU into thinking the head lights never changed by....yeah it's that obvious...by changing the resistance to what it's looking for. But you already knew that...you were just testing my experience. So moving along....

and....

you don't do any research either.....

EASY FIX IS

DO SOME DAMN RESEARCH LIKE....OH....30 SECONDS WORTH

And if you did, and I don't mean college thesis research I mean like "HID conversion kits" click the search button on google, and then you would see the multitude of kits, that are designed with what we are doing in mind. And were kind enough to do, what alot of us have been doing for years before these kits were mass produced....but I can stop here because your experience should know the answer......


BUT....

for those that don't.....oh wait I already said this....TWICE....

BUY A QUALITY KIT

Dude right off the top of my head McCulloch, Xetronic (digital ballast) I can name two companies that make wiring harnesses for their ballasts....this isn't just for the ease of plug and play mi amigo....it routes the headlights to be hardwired directly to the battery. And their engineers in Germany put all the proper electronics in that harness to NOT change any of the power schematics in the wiring of the car.....oh but it gets better, it solves the voltage problem alot of cars DO have when converting to HID....the current is the proper voltage but isn't steady enough sometimes to power the ballast with a constant 12volts. Which can cause premature failure of the ballast. But you already knew that just upgrading your fuse 10amps bigger for your headlights actually 99% of the time will be the cheapest way to fix that too.

Now what I'm getting at is, the wiring harness like I said isn't just for plug and play ease of install...actually that's a convient biproduct of what is really a crutch for the electrical system. It isolates the HID kits that have them to the battery as the power source...and I hope you do know that the ECU is after the battery in the flow of circuitry. So....it then...oh yeah that above thing I already mentioned....fools the computer into thinking the lights haven't changed.

Hold on, there's more....now you see why I didn't want to get into the technical answer??!?!!?! This harness doesn't bypass the ECU either....it just doesn't use the cars power after the ECU, or from any portion of the wiring harness for that matter....they also connect to the stock wiring harness....because well duh you still need to turn off your headlights. And most people wouldn't want to have to add a third party switch because we're using power before the factory headlight switch.

And so now, let's review....now we are using the battery directly as our power source...with the kits new harness as the gateway, but we complete the missing circuit (the old headlight that the stock harness plugs into) by pluging that into the supplied harness with the key. Now your stock harness is not supplying the power, but it is still controlling it....and so it is none the wiser. Beautiful isn't it....even better for me, because it's a task making it yourself and getting the schematics correct.

It's a freakin computer, checking for OHMs be smarter than it....it's only going to know what you make it think.

We do it all the time, like....check valves for car modified with aftermarket turbos, or for any you may be creating positive manifold pressure (SC's too)....manifold looks for negative manifold pressure, right because that's what a N/A motor makes, negative manifold pressure (no boost no way to make positive pressure) so when the ECU saw positive pressure from the turbo, check engine light...and in some cars it wouldn't run at all because some ECU's had that failsafe. But, similar to our OHM's problem, a simple $.99 check valve between the intake manifold and the vacum canister, and VIOLA the ecu has no clue that manifold is now seeing anywhere from 8 - 40lbs (that's .5 to about 2.1 bar since we drive german cars and europe uses bar not psi to measure boost, you know 15lbs of boost is equal to 1 bar of boost)

Oh yeah, and you do know....I mean you should....you do this everyday...that about 20 - 30% of an OBD II ECU's perameters are real time correct? And since you know that by real time, I mean that the ECU is in fact a brain...and at the start of the car, it does checks...and can teach itself to adjust (only within the range it's been programmed to, and when it fails to within those set ranges....THEN and only THEN will it throw a code) the SAM can learn such things without a human telling it to switch to HID. And trust me, I know this is going to start you and a million other people to argue with me...but eh...no matter. And this is actually not information that's hard to find all over the internet, it's pretty common knowledge that anytime a major modification is made to a car....that can, will or may have an effect on the ECU can be taught to the ECU but a certain powering down and powering up procedure of the ECU. It goes something like, pull the ECU fuse...or if you're one of those thorough people unplug the entire harness (all plugs) at the ecu. Leave it for 20 minutes, then without touching the gas or the transmission (I.E. leave it in park (auto) or in 1st or R (manual, generally these are the two gears the N safety switch is in....some cars can be in any gear....1st and R are sure things though) start the car, and let it idle for the next ten minutes. And if you want to verify my information, call Mercedes if you want...but then call somone that is a neutral 3rd party and won't be clouded by an overhead they have to make every....week....so they can make it every...month....so they meet their...quarterly margin. Oh hell....now I'm just being condesending because I'm irritated all this was required to back up my already accurate information, with a long explination that cold have been avoided had you not wanted to tell us how experienced and right you were.

So, basically....I'm sorry I know alot of this was just digging at you....but I see it this way, you brought that on yourself when you started not just correcting me but leaving the impression I don't have a clue what I'm talking about. I mean seriously....copy and pasted into Word, this is a 5 freaking page defense...and what's f'd up is you could have done 5 minutes of research and saved me the effort and you the embarassment.

Now, I want to finish with this being the last thing you read....you aren't wrong by any means in anything you said, but while what you know wasn't wrong....what you know wasn't all there was to know.

***IF ANY OF THIS DOES SEEM INACCURATE, BEFORE THE NEXT PERSON STARTS A HOLY WAR, PM ME....I WROTE THIS VERY QUICKLY, I PROBABLY SKIPPED OVER A FEW EXPLINATIONS AND CLARIFICATIONS...BUT HOLY CRAP THIS IS LONG ENOUGH....WE DON'T NEED TO BE HERE UNTIL CHRISTMAS TALKING ABOUT THIS, IT'S NOT BUILDING A SPACE SHUTTLE. SIMPLE ELECTRONICS AND SHADETREE MECHANIC WORK***
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
67 Posts
You know, maybe I shouldn't have posted that last post, or at least not taken such a personal attack approach, and dig about your experience comments....but before this gets out of hand and into a huge argument that nothing will come of...I just want to leave it at this...that post while maybe had some overtones of a personal attack, you'll have to understand was really more of a frustrated attempt at a personal defense for myself.

Now with that said, let's leave my posts at this....This is not an admission to the accuracy or inaccuracy of my posts; I said what I said based on what I know, the information I provided is accurate to the best of my knowledge and research. It is the responsibility of any user/member/or guest of this website to verify to their satisfaction the accuracy of any posts I have made regarding HID lighting systems in this thread, to date and any future posts I may compose. Again, this was in way an admission to the accuracy or inaccuracy of any posts I have composed. Use it at your own risk.

So there, I've release all needs, wants, and/or desires to argue with what I said, I just basically made everything I said nothing more than an educated opinion...it is up to the user of said information to verify it's accuracy through other sources. So, since and opinion is just that and neither right nor wrong...there is no need to argue with me or even direct a response to any of my past posts. Of course, you are welcome to post anything you want in agreement or disagreement....there is just no more need to direct it at me or anything I said. So let's move past this, I'm tired of trying to build a pyramid.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
686 Posts
wow! now thats a post... i dont think ive gotten someone that worked up for a while...

anyway, i was not and am not attacking you, but the truth remains that you are providing incorrect information and then covering it up in a very long winded psuedo-technical post. You said there was *no* setting to be changed and then you switched to "there is no setting per se" when in fact there is a standard/HID setting and if the setting is changed the SAM cuts voltage to the HIDs.

and that is a fact.
 

·
W221 & Audio Moderator
Joined
·
10,864 Posts
Mr. Wonderful,

Before you go much further, you might want to check out who Rob13572468 is - that is, what he does for a living, and the nature of the work his company does.

That 30 seconds of research you mentioned may help. To make it even shorter, check out Mid City Engineering and some of Rob's other posts.
 
1 - 20 of 22 Posts
Top