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MOPF1 500E
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Mine rounded off when trying to remove it (even w/ a flare nut wrench), and a new one is $43. Surely there must be a generic equivalent one can use after I get this out. Thanks.

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W163 and General M Gremlin
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16,988 Posts
good Q.

bleed screw/valve on the ABS side?
M8x1.25 OR
M10x1.0 ?
 
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'95 E300 DIESEL, '91 600SEL, '92 600SEL
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That is not a generic brake bleeder screw. The $43 is trivial, but the trick will be to get the old one out.

My suggestion is to get a can of PB blaster or Bulldog and apply several times over a 72 hour period.

And then use a sacrifical socket to weld onto the rounded bleeder screw.

use a inductive heating coil to heat up the area around the bolt, but not the bolt itself.

Then remove using a ratchet.
 

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MOPF1 500E
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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
That is not a generic brake bleeder screw. The $43 is trivial, but the trick will be to get the old one out.

My suggestion is to get a can of PB blaster or Bulldog and apply several times over a 72 hour period.

And then use a sacrifical socket to weld onto the rounded bleeder screw.

use a inductive heating coil to heat up the area around the bolt, but not the bolt itself.

Then remove using a ratchet.
Thanks. Don't these induction coil things heat the bolt and not the area around the bolt (opposite what you suggest)?

 

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'95 E300 DIESEL, '91 600SEL, '92 600SEL
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19,775 Posts
The idea is to make the ABS block expand since it is made from aluminum. Aluminum expands quicker than a steel bolt.

The expansion will cause the galvanic corrosion on the threads of the bolt to let loose.
 

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'95 E300 DIESEL, '91 600SEL, '92 600SEL
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One more thing, before welding on a vehicle make sure you disconnect and remove the battery.

Otherwise you are likely to cause a host of electrical issues and/or vehicle damage.
 
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