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I normally add a auxilary transmission cooler to every vehicle I own. I have already heard thet these 722.6 units burn up, from the tech at a local Mercedes service shop.
I mentioned wanting to add a secondary cooler to him, and was told that there is absolutely nowhere to put it. I have not gone under the car yet to look for a spot myself to confirm that. He also told me to add a bottle of Lucas to the transmission, which I already do on my vehicles.
The transmission was just redone before I bought the car, I want it to last.

The service tech's at the dealership did not care for my comment about their burning up issue though when I mentioned , Lifetime fluid and no dipstick to check it. Put two and two together wonder why your doing so many transmission jobs????
My Mercedes is a E300TD incase your wondering,
Please post.

Lowflyingbird
 

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E320/E250 Bluetec Ford F350 6.7l
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Those cars come with transmission cooler from the factory. It is using smaller coil inside radiator for that. With converter locks no need to add second cooler unless you are using the car for towing 4000 lb travel trailer.
Haven't hear about those transmissions burning at all. They fail occasionally, but you won't find lot of notes about it on the forum. Actually recall one member recalling transmission failure after the service.
DO NOT ADD ANYTHING TO THE FLUID
 

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I would keep the Lucas out of a 722.6 transmission. They call for special fluid.

The lifetime fluid recommendation is the problem, not the fluid temperature.

If you're really pushing the transmission, a additional fluid cooler would help. But let's not forget that you have a diesel, and the same transmission sits behind the 430.
 

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1994 E320 Wagon,1999 E320 Wagon,2000 E 320 Wagon, MGB Track/Rally, ,1988 300E ,more....
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722.6

cleanliness is next to godliness not cooleyness.:D
change the fluid and filter with mb spec fluid,keep additives out of it,and with the factory cooler in a diesel that is hard pressed to do 0-60 in 9 seconds heat is hardly ever going to become an issue.
:bowdown:

if you tow tru cool 14500 gvw 5inch by 11 in trans cooler.If a shop can't fit that in they can't be called a shop:rolleyes:
 

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2001 E430 4Matic
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Most important is keep fluid clear and as mentioned Kajtek1 Do not add any additive .
Last year I replaced conductor plate and valve body by Sonnax and replaced fluids like 5 times In the last 2 years.
I bought a car 2 years ago ....and fluid was brown/green .oh wow and it was smell burnt a little ...and the fluid level was Waaaay to low .
So I repalced all this things to prevent failure as as I can ! Especially Conductor plate and Valve body can cause a lot of failure ..that's why I replaced them .
I using only Mercedes approved fluid .
I have Shell ATF 134.
What I did when bought car .
Drained the fluid and refilled with new one and use new filter. I get drive like for 2 weeks on highway.. then drop the pan again refilled using new filter again .
I drived then 3 months and replaced fluid again with new filter .
And Do NOT Flush Tranny Fluid.
 

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E320/E250 Bluetec Ford F350 6.7l
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Nice reviving of 10 yo thread.
I hope the cars mentioned at the time are still on the roads.
MB since then changed ATF fluid and new is comparable with the old one. Some reports say the new one doesn't perform on older transmission as well as the original one, but did not hear any complains lately and not too many choices anyway.
 

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Most important is keep fluid clear and as mentioned Kajtek1 Do not add any additive .
Last year I replaced conductor plate and valve body by Sonnax and replaced fluids like 5 times In the last 2 years.
I bought a car 2 years ago ....and fluid was brown/green .oh wow and it was smell burnt a little ...and the fluid level was Waaaay to low .
So I repalced all this things to prevent failure as as I can ! Especially Conductor plate and Valve body can cause a lot of failure ..that's why I replaced them .
I using only Mercedes approved fluid .
I have Shell ATF 134.
What I did when bought car .
Drained the fluid and refilled with new one and use new filter. I get drive like for 2 weeks on highway.. then drop the pan again refilled using new filter again .
I drived then 3 months and replaced fluid again with new filter .
And Do NOT Flush Tranny Fluid.

Thanx so much for this info.. its so weird that after clearing the codes and resetting the trans the car is still in limp mode any ideas out there of another way to get car out of limp mode?
car starts and idles perfectly all that has 180km on the clock 1997 e320 elegance.
Cheers Pat
 

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1998 E320 base sedan @ 160kmiles
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Thanx so much for this info.. its so weird that after clearing the codes and resetting the trans the car is still in limp mode any ideas out there of another way to get car out of limp mode?
car starts and idles perfectly all that has 180km on the clock 1997 e320 elegance.
Cheers Pat
What codes did you have, and how did you clear them ? With a scanner than can access the TCU through the 38-pin connector ?
Did the codes come back ?
 

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What codes did you have, and how did you clear them ? With a scanner than can access the TCU through the 38-pin connector ?
Did the codes come back ?
P0715 P0150 P0155 yes I have a 38pin and read fine and cleared fine but still the car stayed in limp .. but after more reading this morning in the forum I suspect I need conductor plate so I will by one today and see if that will help.
 

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1998 E320 base sedan @ 160kmiles
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P0715 P0150 P0155 yes I have a 38pin and read fine and cleared fine but still the car stayed in limp .. but after more reading this morning in the forum I suspect I need conductor plate so I will by one today and see if that will help.
The codes you listed are from the ECU (Engine Computer) which holds a mapped code from the TCU (Transmission Computer). Clearing P0715 will not clear the code from the TCU. It will still be there and it will update the ECU, so you will get a new P0715.

You need a scanner that can access the TCU through the 38 pin connector, and read the two and three digit codes, like 14, 110. You need to clear these codes, as well as the one in the ECU.

I would not automatically assume that it is the conductor plate. Get the real 3 digit codes first, and check that there is no ATF contamination in the adapter plug and the TCU, which can cause a problem like this. If not the contamination issue, then it is likely a conductor plate rpm sensor issue.

The car will not get out of electrical limp mode without cleaning the code from the TCU, after fixing the problem.
 
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