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1990 300SE, 1983 300D
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Is there any way to get the park lights and fog lights to be on at the same time? It only works with the headlights (like you all know), but is there any way?
 

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Greetings -

In the process of trying to solve my headlight problem, (which is very different from yours) I came across a W123 Mercedes CD that showed a bunch of different wiring options for the headlight switch. I can't find any of the supporting schematics, and if it's the CD I think it was, it belongs to a friend who is now across the country. But the W123 headlight switch has quite a few "extra" terminals and connection options - if you can find that set of diagrams showing the options for different countries, you may find just the one you want.

Anyone else out there seen that set of diagrams?

Conrad
 

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Benzless for now...
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You have to move the fog light circuit(in the fuse panel)from the headlights to the parking lamps. look around some of those online repair guides, somebody posted instructions
 

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'85 West Coast 123
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A stock W123 is wired to supply power to the fog light switch only when the low beams are on. This doesn't do you much good in dense fog or snow, since the bright white light will defeat the yellow (or white) fogs. This is especially true with the Hella H4s. By changing the power supply for the fogs, you can run them anytime you like, even with the high beams. The power is fed by fuse number 11, which is a 16A (red) fuse. It also powers the right side low beam. By changing the power source to fuse 3 (left side tail lights), the fog lights have power with the parking light position on the switch.

Removing the fuse panel to make this change can be a little intimidating. Be sure you DISCONNECT the battery first! There is only one nut holding the panel in, and with a little work you can pull the panel out of it's hole. It helps to remove the under-dash cover in the drivers side foot well. Be careful, damage to the wiring or fuse panel can be expensive to fix!

You'll notice that to get to the connections to the upper row of fuses, you need to removed the connections to the opposite fuse in the lower row. Make sure you remember where these wires belong and don't loose the screws! A magnetic tip screw driver is a must. The power for the fogs is gray with green and yellow marks. Clip the wire and use tape or some shrink wrap tubing to cover any of the wire that remains exposed. Carefully crimp a new ring connector on the fog light wire and protect it with another piece of shrink warp. Then connect the wire to fuse number three, removing any wires you need to to gain access. The last step is to change the fuses. Swap the 16A from 11 with the 8A from 3. The fogs draw a lot of current, almost 8A by themselves. Of course you won't have to worry about the current draw if you move to stage two! To help identify wires, you might want to get a copy of a Chiltons manual. They have a seperate schematic for the lighting system which is very useful.
 
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